Another question for the 12v electrical gurus

[STAG]

Working on a custom blinker setup for the gladiator.

I have an aftermarket LED light that goes white for the DRL, then goes to amber for the blinker function.

The way I tried to test it to the truck, works, but of course I have a hyperblink and a “signal light out” warning on the dash screen.

I tried wiring in a load resister in between the lead to the amber light and the ground, and that heats up as expected, but I still have the hyperblink.


I found this wiring diagram online for the Jeep side, but I’m not sure if it’s the right one. The white/green is definitely the blinker and the white/brown is definitely the DRL. But this diagram is for the left side and of course I’m experimenting on the passenger side.

And here is my light leads poked into the Jeep socket for testing.

For the blinker side of the wiring;
Black is ground
White is DRL
Yellow is blinker.

So I added the load resister between the yellow and the black wire.




My question is, anyone see what’s obvious to how I can get rid of the hyperblink and “signal out” light?

 

[DaveB]

On the ones I've worked on you can ditch the resistor if you use an LED light type flasher.

LED Compatible Flashers

Flashers led compatible for car, truck and motorcycle

www.ledlight.com

 

[STAG]

On the ones I've worked on you can ditch the resistor if you use an LED light type flasher.

LED Compatible Flashers

Flashers led compatible for car, truck and motorcycle

www.ledlight.com

I’ll look into that, the only thing is that my factory OEM blinkers and DRL lights were LED too, so I’m sure there is some kind of module/resister pack built into the blinker itself that tells the truck not to hyperblink

 

[Herzog]

I’ll look into that, the only thing is that my factory OEM blinkers and DRL lights were LED too, so I’m sure there is some kind of module/resister pack built into the blinker itself that tells the truck not to hyperblink

I used the compatible flasher on the tacoma to fix my issue. The rear blinkers are normal and still work properly, so if the OEM leds had a module in them and is now gone, the flasher might be the ticket...? Can't be 100% sure though.

 

[bryson]

You can buy replacement LEDs that already have the no-hyperflash function built in, just like the OEM ones (CANbus compatible or some BS).

As to troubleshooting your current setup, I'm sure the resistance value of the resistor matters - I don't know what you'd need in this particular case, but I'm pretty sure it isn't just "pick any resistor and toss it in there" easy. Maybe measure resistance of the OEM bulbs, compare to your new ones and go from there. Maybe you already did this?

Either way, this lighted shadow box (oxymoron) that you're building to display your Jeep flavored quackers🦆 is gonna be SWEET!

 

[STAG]

You can buy replacement LEDs that already have the no-hyperflash function built in, just like the OEM ones (CANbus compatible or some BS).

As to troubleshooting your current setup, I'm sure the resistance value of the resistor matters - I don't know what you'd need in this particular case, but I'm pretty sure it isn't just "pick any resistor and toss it in there" easy. Maybe measure resistance of the OEM bulbs, compare to your new ones and go from there. Maybe you already did this?

Either way, this lighted shadow box (oxymoron) that you're building to display your Jeep flavored quackers🦆 is gonna be SWEET!

I used a resistor that was sold/advertised to be specific for this use; of installing LED blinkers to avoid hyper flash, but yes it could be a resistance variance issue.


I was thinking it was possibly more something to do with those other wires I didn’t use maybe needing some kind of feedback signal.

I know the non LED Jeeps just use a 3-wire harness, (park lamp, blinker, ground) and in that configuration I think maybe the load resistor would have worked to what I needed it to do. But my model uses 5 wires in the harness.

Worst case scenario I’ll just buy one if the options that are already out on the market for what I’m after. I just felt like I could make a set that looks better than theirs for a lot cheaper.