Ford Build Thread: FrED the Ford. '98 E350 7.3 4x4 The More We Explore's Adventure Van

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
I got the steering column put back together, but it still won't start. It's acting like dead batteries. I just hear the click of the relay once and that's it. Could be the starter too. I tried banging on it with a hammer, but no luck.

I may tow it witg a strap back to my house, it's only 2 miles away.
 

RogueJeepr

Here!
Location
Utah
You should get a AAA card. My dad gets us cards cause his big ol motor home would be a massive tow bill if he ever needed a tow. He gets me a card so I dont have to call him when im broke down.
So far I've used it twice this year.
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
Good idea kiel, I'll try that tomorrow. I was working on the steering column till late and I didn't have any more patience to troubleshoot it there.
 

jentzschman

Well-Known Member
Location
Sandy, Utah
If you are working on it tonight I should be able to stop by and offer help in the form of moral encouragement. But seriously, if you need help I can swing by.

Sent from my SM-G386T using Tapatalk
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
Thanks trevor. I hope to have it fixed by then, but we will see. Fortunately, replacing the starter is a piece of cake on these motors.
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
It's home now, thanks. Aaa rocks.

I sure appreciate the good people of RME being so willing to help.
 
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sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
Well... I spent the entire day putting in new batteries and a new starter. No dice. Still just the single click.

I'm going to get familiar with my starter wiring diagrams...
 

Herzog

somewhat damaged
Admin
Location
Wyoming
I had this happen before. Turned out to be a corroded ground cable (corroded inside the sheath). It was barely letting enough juice go by to click, but not enough to kick the soleniod in to run the starter. Check all the cables.
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
Thanks, I'll double-check. Whatever it was, I assume it was caused by the ignition actuator arm breaking (the pin came out). I fixed that and the ignition feels normal again. Now I just get the one click.

It could be a ground issue, or a loose cable, but I double checked all of them. Apart from a visual inspection, how else should I check them?
 
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Herzog

somewhat damaged
Admin
Location
Wyoming
Thanks, I'll double-check. Whatever it was, I assume it was caused by the ignition actuator arm breaking (the pin came out). I fixed that and the ignition feels normal again. Now I just get the one click.

It could be a ground issue, or a loose cable, but I double checked all of them. Apart from a visual inspection, how else should I check them?

If you have a spare cable, try running or bypassing one at a time... just to see. Might even be able to use a jumper cable, depending on how much room you have on the back side of the starter.
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
thanks ut140.

I agree that i should hit it with a multimeter all over. I don't understand all the parts of the starting system yet though. Lots to research and learn.

I tried starting it in neutral and it wouldn't start either. I believe that's how you test if it's the shift position sensor.
 

SLC97SR5

IDIesel
Location
Davis County
Have you jumpered the starter solenoid on the fender to split the system in half?
With the key in the run position have you jumpered the starter solenoid/bendix directly on the starter itself to get it to fire?
I assume there is a solenoid on the fenders or near the glow plug solenoid like the OBS and SuperDuty trucks...
 
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sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
Nope, I thought the solenoid was on the actual starter. I'll see if I can find some info on where the solenoid is.

How do I jumper it? By connecting the positive and negative?

Forgive my rudimentary understanding of how cars work.
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
Here's what I've learned in my research (there may be some errors in my understanding).

Ignition --> trans position switch --> starter relay (on the pre 02 f-trucks, this is found under the hood on the passenger side fender, I'm not sure where it is on the vans) --> starter solenoid (mounted on the starter).

There's also a solenoid signal wire that goes from the ignition to the starter solenoid to trigger it.
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
More notes i found from other threads (this is more for my benefit than anyone elses)

"Ok From the ingnition switch the circuit in question Goes to the Trans range sensor on the transmission test the white/pink wire and the red/lt blue wire with the key in the run position. If you have 12 volts on both great. if 12 volts on wt/pk andXXXXXbl then verify trans is in park if ok replace trans range sensor. If you have 12 volts on both side trace open circuit to starter relay on fender. Thats the entire system. This circuit does not go thruogh the fuse panel after it leaves the ingintion switch, please verify your voltages and repair as required."
 
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