With a flat spring the shackle mounted in front will move rearward when hitting a bump. The flat spring is longest at ride height (flat). When compressed over a bump it becomes shorter pulling the shackle back. Chevy/Ford kind of a thing Chevy put the shackles behind, Ford put them up front. I still say it is only an issue with highly arched springs.
Ford Build Thread: FrED the Ford. '98 E350 7.3 4x4 The More We Explore's Adventure Van
- Thread starter sixstringsteve
- Start date
With a flat spring the shackle mounted in front will move rearward when hitting a bump. The flat spring is longest at ride height (flat). When compressed over a bump it becomes shorter pulling the shackle back. Chevy/Ford kind of a thing Chevy put the shackles behind, Ford put them up front. I still say it is only an issue with highly arched springs.
SLC97SR5
IDIesel
- Location
- Davis County
Does it have the E4OD or 4R100?
Either way the front pump seal is a common place for ATF to leak from once the transmission gets overheated a few times. There is an updated seal that corresponds to a color...I forget the colors. While you are in there you'll probably want to spin in a new rear main seal.
Does the van have aftermarket gauges for anything?
Either way the front pump seal is a common place for ATF to leak from once the transmission gets overheated a few times. There is an updated seal that corresponds to a color...I forget the colors. While you are in there you'll probably want to spin in a new rear main seal.
Does the van have aftermarket gauges for anything?
TJDukit
I.Y.A.A.Y.A.S.
- Location
- Clearfield
Very cool Steve. Glad to see you scored a good rig to start out with.
Edit: The vans I rode around in the youth corps were all two wheel drive but other than the extra maintenance that's involved with a 4 wheel drive rig it should still be just as solid. Obviously it's not like you are new to 4x4 rigs so that shouldn't be an issue and at least this thing will have a lot of stuff you can work on yourself if needed.
Edit: The vans I rode around in the youth corps were all two wheel drive but other than the extra maintenance that's involved with a 4 wheel drive rig it should still be just as solid. Obviously it's not like you are new to 4x4 rigs so that shouldn't be an issue and at least this thing will have a lot of stuff you can work on yourself if needed.
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D
Deleted member 12904
Guest
The viton seal is grey if I remember correctly from when I did mine.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
Agreed, that was a big plus. Even though I'll most likely be redoing the suspension and steering, at least I don't have to shorten the tank, measure drivelines, cut holes in the floor, source a tcase, etc. That'll be nice.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
This fuel tank has been shortened. I believe it's 25 gal. I'd love a 45 gal aux tank one day, but for now 25 gal is working just fine.
boogie_4wheel
Active Member
- Location
- North Salt Lake, Utah
Did the vans also come with the squashed exhaust down-pipe off of the turbo?
Had a '95 PSD truck. The part of the down-pipe that was nearest the firewall is squished so it doesn't breathe as well. We replaced it with a new pipe from Banks that was actually round like an exhaust pipe should be. There was minor clearance issues with the firewall, but we made it fit.
We did the Banks Get-Kit. Down-pipe and piggyback chip, boosted torque from 425 to ~500ft-lb. It did nothing for mileage (didn't help or hurt it), but it was much more responsive without a lot of low boost smoke. The EGTs would get hot on it and we would have to lift the throttle some on long pulls. That crew cab dually with 4.10 would do 2nd gear burnouts, and spent most of its life towing 15k.
Had a '95 PSD truck. The part of the down-pipe that was nearest the firewall is squished so it doesn't breathe as well. We replaced it with a new pipe from Banks that was actually round like an exhaust pipe should be. There was minor clearance issues with the firewall, but we made it fit.
We did the Banks Get-Kit. Down-pipe and piggyback chip, boosted torque from 425 to ~500ft-lb. It did nothing for mileage (didn't help or hurt it), but it was much more responsive without a lot of low boost smoke. The EGTs would get hot on it and we would have to lift the throttle some on long pulls. That crew cab dually with 4.10 would do 2nd gear burnouts, and spent most of its life towing 15k.
Rot Box
Diesel and Dust
- Location
- Smithfield Utah
Awesome!! Man I'm jealous--Looking forward to updates 
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
Great info. I haven't checked the down-pipe yet.
I'm all for a little more responsiveness and power, but I don't want to burn up my tranny or reduce reliability. Reliability and MPG trump all else. If I can keep it reliable and keep my MPG, I wouldn't mind a mild tune.
I'm all for a little more responsiveness and power, but I don't want to burn up my tranny or reduce reliability. Reliability and MPG trump all else. If I can keep it reliable and keep my MPG, I wouldn't mind a mild tune.
Rot Box
Diesel and Dust
- Location
- Smithfield Utah
If it has one it'll look like it has been ran over by a cement truck
Ford also used an oversized turbo housing on the exhaust side those years. By swapping a smaller housing on you get quicker spool up and lower exhaust temps. Upgrading both the down pipe and housing is a very worthwhile upgrade imo both of those are widely available in the aftermarket. I think you'll fall in love the Power Stroke. The 7.3 is a winner in my bias opinion
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
Got my temp tag today, and I realized the title said 1997, not 1998. No biggie, I imagine they're exactly the same anyway.
I guess I should get in the habit of checking the title closer when I buy a vehicle.
I guess I should get in the habit of checking the title closer when I buy a vehicle.
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- Location
- SPANISH FORK, UTAH
I have a 97 7.3 Double Cab long bed duelly, 180k miles on it, it has a straight piped stock exhaust and a drop in K&N filter. I towed a 35' Fifth wheel and 4 four wheelers behind the trailer and it would pull any hill no problem at whatever speed I wanted. Mine is a 5 speed and I have found the Engine likes a certain RPM range so I always was speeding when pulling. I average 15-16 driving empty and about 12-13 loaded to the hilt.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
What does "straight pipe" refer to? The downpipe? I'm ebarassed that I don't even know what a downpipe is. Is that similar to a header?
boogie_4wheel
Active Member
- Location
- North Salt Lake, Utah
The down pipe is the pipe that is connected to the turbo (in the engine compartment) and goes down to the underside of the vehicle and connects to the rest of the exhaust system. It is the first few feet of pipe that is 'vertical'.
A straight pipe has the muffler removed (and possibly catalytic converter if equipped). Depending on vehicle, can help reduce back pressure in the exhaust which results in slightly faster turbo spool and maybe a hair cooler EGT's. All that at the cost of noise. Straight pipes get old after about 15 minutes of driving in my opinion.
You still have exhaust manifolds. They go from the head to the exhaust side of the turbo. Then from the turbo to the down pipe, then on through the rest of the exhaust system.
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
I believe the van has the unsquashed down pipe stock. If not, I would definitely swap it and ad a BAMF filter. Those two things really woke up my 7.3.
For the filter, I used a Donaldson filter commonly found on UPS trucks. I built the intake pipe with 4" exhaust tube from Six States Distributors on 1700 south. You will need some gauges to monitor exhaust temps (pyrometer) and trans temps.
For the filter, I used a Donaldson filter commonly found on UPS trucks. I built the intake pipe with 4" exhaust tube from Six States Distributors on 1700 south. You will need some gauges to monitor exhaust temps (pyrometer) and trans temps.
Tonkaman
Well-Known Member
- Location
- West Jordan
Changing the downpipe is all about lowering the EGT's and slightly decreasing the turbo lag. The best money spent on ANY Diesel engine is a pyrometer.
A big noisy, stinky diesel is going to be a whole new world for you. But they are still just nuts and bolts. You'll get it pretty quick.
Toad
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Millville(logan)
Lots of guys with trucks are doing a shackle reversal with super duty springs. If I remember right b and v code springs. Precision Metal Fab(PMF) makes a very nice kit for f250/350. I was about to do it to my truck but it lifts its 2 inches and I did not want to mess with my fifth wheel ride height.
Rot box mentioned upgrading the turbo housing. The vans have a smaller turbo housing then the trucks do. If you do decide to "chip" it go with a custom tuner not just Banks or Edge. I had Power Hungry Performance on my truck when it was stock. Tunes were good, no smoke, good shift points. I then installed 160 cc injectors. Had my chip reburned with TW tunes. Smoked bad, EGTS were sky high. I think it lasted 3 days. I am currently running tunes from Gearhead. No smoke.
Trans is going to be a E4od. Plan on rebuilding it. Pretty weak in stock form. Are you sure the rear axle is a 60? Most Fords used a Sterling 10.25.
Maintenance things to be aware of. Replace the fuel filter. I have to change every oil change. Remove the fuel pressure regulator screen and clean it. 7.3s are hard on engine oil due to the way the injectors are fired. I change mine every 4k miles.
Rot box mentioned upgrading the turbo housing. The vans have a smaller turbo housing then the trucks do. If you do decide to "chip" it go with a custom tuner not just Banks or Edge. I had Power Hungry Performance on my truck when it was stock. Tunes were good, no smoke, good shift points. I then installed 160 cc injectors. Had my chip reburned with TW tunes. Smoked bad, EGTS were sky high. I think it lasted 3 days. I am currently running tunes from Gearhead. No smoke.
Trans is going to be a E4od. Plan on rebuilding it. Pretty weak in stock form. Are you sure the rear axle is a 60? Most Fords used a Sterling 10.25.
Maintenance things to be aware of. Replace the fuel filter. I have to change every oil change. Remove the fuel pressure regulator screen and clean it. 7.3s are hard on engine oil due to the way the injectors are fired. I change mine every 4k miles.