Chromollys in a dana 44

RockCrushinToy

Registered User
what kinda strength would i get out of a high pinion 44 front end that is cut to fit a toy if i put chromollys in it? what size tire could i safely run? should i do inner and outer shafts? bad ass u joint?

thanx for the help in advance
 

Cody

Random Quote Generator
Supporting Member
Location
East Stabbington
if you don't know what a ctm is, then you're best bet for a more capable rig is about 1000 more hours of seat time.

fwiw, you'd get about the same strength as a 60 narrowed the same way....except you spend the money you would have spent on d44 shafts on getting a 60 and never wish you made the mistake of putting a 44 under anything.

Cody
 

jlowry

Active Member
They are cryogenically frozen 300m alloy U-Joints(Tougher than 4340 chromolly). If you run these joints, you'll want to make sure that you run chromo shafts, because you'll break stock shafts before you break those u-joints.
 

jlowry

Active Member
I agree with Cody about getting the experience of driving your rig.

As far as doing a 60 versus a 44 in the front, it really depends on; driving habits, horsepower, size of vehicle, tire size etc. If you are planning on running 37" or smaller tire and your not abusive, an HP44 would work even without chromo shafts and CTM U-Joints.
 
Last edited:

way2nosty

Registered User
I've been looking into this myself, according to the vendors, chromolly shafts that are properly stress releived and heat treated or chryogenically frozen are about 35% stronger then stock dana 60 shafts. With the addition of ctms or ox joints, you are around 30% stronger in the entire assembly, good for about 400 ponies and about 500#' (vendors numbers) obviously shock loading/unloading plays in, bottom line is !$ if you are going to be running a smokin' power plant you're going to need the 60 anyways if you have a lead foot like the rest of us.
 

Milner

formerly "rckcrlr"
My $.02
Yep, get more experience before spending that kind of money.

And I did the $$$$ 44 thing. Broke 3 cromo shafts before I tore the spindle off the knukle. Now I run a 60;)
 

DevinB

I like traffic lights
Location
Down Or'm
IMO, if you stick alloys/CTMs in a D44, you're going to be plenty strong shaft/u-joint wise. But if you stick big/heavy tires on there, you're going to be breaking balljoints with the D44. So after you spent all that money on the D44 to run bigger tires, you'll still have a weak point. If you plan on running anything bigger than a heavy 35"/light 37", go straight to a D60.
 

KToy

Well-Known Member
Location
Herriman, UT
i almost did the chromos and ctms.... ya then i went bigger tire.

that would of cost me so much money.



only advantage to a d44 is clearance.


so get a 60 and bigger tires.
 

Herzog

somewhat damaged
Admin
Location
Wyoming
I Lean said:
Yeah, but he drives like a grrrrl. :D

No way! :rofl:

I beat the piss outa that thing. -_-

If I were to do it again, narrowed D60. But I still haven't had problems with my setup as it is. :p But that is probably mostly due to how light my vehicle is.
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
DevinB said:
IMO, if you stick alloys/CTMs in a D44, you're going to be plenty strong shaft/u-joint wise. But if you stick big/heavy tires on there, you're going to be breaking balljoints with the D44. So after you spent all that money on the D44 to run bigger tires, you'll still have a weak point. If you plan on running anything bigger than a heavy 35"/light 37", go straight to a D60.


I've seen D44 Warn shafts break with CTMs and 35" Maxxis tires (FI 6 cyl.). I've also seen D44 Warn shafts and CTMs take a pretty good beating with 37" and 38" tires and not even flinch. (I've also seen NEW Spicer shafts and 760 joints do some pretty amazing things with a TBI 350 and 37" tires.....). I went with the stock D60 front which I think is roughly equivalent to the alloy shafted D44/CTM combo and I can upgrade it to alloy shafts and CTMs if needed (I'm a cheap b@stid).
 

Cody

Random Quote Generator
Supporting Member
Location
East Stabbington
Do you already have a toy axle up front? I would put those longfield super birfs in there before I'd put a 44. I've seen those superbirfs take some serious abuse--more than my 44 ever could have lived through--underneith Kelly Smith's toy. If you're going to spend the time to narrow and fab something else under there with the intent of gaining strength, then the only option is a 60.
 

rockreligious

NoEcoNaziAmmo
Location
Ephraim
Cody said:
Do you already have a toy axle up front? I would put those longfield super birfs in there before I'd put a 44. I've seen those superbirfs take some serious abuse--more than my 44 ever could have lived through--underneith Kelly Smith's toy. If you're going to spend the time to narrow and fab something else under there with the intent of gaining strength, then the only option is a 60.


This is what I was going to say...but he never said what size tire he wanted to run, we all asumed 38's,Ive broke seven stock shafts with my hp44 and 38's the only reason I didnt go with cromies is because I had stocked up on used shafts in aticipation of shaft failure I have started running solid u-joints and havent broke since, usualy its the ujoint that fails and takes the shaft with it, I was going to go with cromies cause I wasnt willing to pay $1000 for a d60, and start over, but I recently picked up a high pinion 60 for under $500.
 

N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member
Location
UT
chadschoon said:
i would still say 35's

thats a laugh :rofl:
i run 36" iroks on my stock 44's f/r never had a problem
i don't drive like a girl either, lots of 2nd gear assaults
 

Herzog

somewhat damaged
Admin
Location
Wyoming
xj_punk said:
thats a laugh :rofl:
i run 36" iroks on my stock 44's f/r never had a problem
i don't drive like a girl either, lots of 2nd gear assaults

Same here. I ran 36" TSL's when she was still a cherokee. It seems like there must be batches of bad axle shafts out there or something with D44's. Sometimes you win, sometimes you lose. I do what works for me. :)
 
Top