descisions- what vehicle?

[Economos]

Originally posted by cruiseroutfit
A kit for that amount probably uses blocks and or add leafs in the rear and coils/spacers in the front. Might not include the control arms either. Stock arms might work but won't give as much flex as the others. Now a RockReady 8", now your talking, flex, control, etc....but $2400 just for the parts is a little steep. I think your best bet would be a Yota, people call them budget but thats just cuz' they have most the stuff already needed to be a hard core rig...

RE is the leader in Jeep suspensions. Its not cheap, but neither is the quality of the parts and their durability. Yeah, sure you can go buy that cheap 4.5" Rough Country sh!t, but be very weary of that stuff. I've heard of RC coils literally snapping in half on the road and on the trail. Their advertised lift height varies; I've seen 3" RC lift give anywhere from 2" - 4.25" of lift AFTER it settled and most of the time, their lifts are cockeyed or uneven.

The best kit out there for the money is the RE 4.5" or the RE XD5.5" kit, hands down no questions about it. I will say that running over 4.5" with the lowers in the stock positions, the angles become a little scetchy and either LCA drop brackets or long arms are the only way to go.

If you wish to spend the money for long arms, there are a few options out there:

1. Fab your own from DOM with heims, Johnnies, or rubber and use an aftermarket UCA. A frame mount will also have to be fabbed and most guys like to tie the arms into the new crossmember/ 'case skid (go look at the Featured Rigs section on this forum and check out Shane Herzog's rig).

2. Spend a LOT of money on the RE TJ long arms and uppers and just build your own crossmember. Lots of guys have done this with EXCELLENT results.

3. Spend the money on the new Rusty's long arms, which actually look pretty descent. BUT, you might be one of the first guys to try this out, so leave margin for error.

4. Buy a complete kit from either Rock Krawler or from Clayton's Hard Parts. If you go this way, Clayton is the man I'd call. But be prepared to spend $1,200.

5. Swap in a Ford HP44 front from a '70s F-150 and retain the stock radius arms. Fab your own crossmember, but be sure to keep the mounts tucked up for clearance.

As far as SkyJacker goes, I wouldn't put one thing they make on my Jeep, I just don't think they can match or beat the quality of RE. Also, EVERYTHING they make is powdercoated RED. For G0d's sake, paint the shiat black or something for a change. All that red shiat under there looks fawkin tacky as hell. And it seems to me that the only reson why they made the "Rock Ready" lift is so they could slap those

ass stickers all over everything. Also, they run heims at both ends of their arms, which is generally not advisable for a DD because of the added vibes that are transmitted though them. I've also heard tale of that cheasy ass front axle "cradle" being thrashed, resulting in failure (cracks, fractures, breaks).

Two words: RUBICON EXPRESS.

Hope I'm not stepping on any toes here; I'm in no way trying to make any enemies over here. Just voicing my opinion in hopes of helping someone out.

 

[spencurai]

Forget RE!!! I saw the rear axle literally rip out from under my buddys TJ because of failure of the RE arms on his rig!!! they make SHEITe!!! the threaded sections on his arms wallowed out even after greasing the hell out of them on a regular basis!! talk to 4 Wheel parts and ask them about how many of those kits they have returned!! they are in the works for a class action lawsuit against those guys for putting out an inferior product that could kill someone!!!

 

[SuperRunner]

Brian, Brian, Brian....

You are going to be a mechanic for toyota, if you buy a cherokee, with a year, you will be kicking yourself for not buying a toyota. Most people who don't buy toyotas don't buy them mainly because...well, they have never owned one, and don't plan on it, and it is mainly out of stubborness or ignorance.

When you start working on those toyotas in the dealearship you are going to say to yourself....."Man, I can't believe I ever liked working on domestic." I do the same thing. I used to love domestics. I even thought at one time that Fords were the bomb, and nothing could compare.

Last year I put in a new motor in a 74 Step side Chevy 4x4 with 4" lift and 35" tires. I have never cussed up a storm like I did on that chevy when I work on my toyotas. I hated every second of it.

In my runner, I can change out my clutch in 2 1/2 hours, By myself. I have never seen a toyota mechanic that owned a off-road capable 4x4 own anything other than a toyota. There is a reason for that...besides the discount .

You are going to run into problems with that unibody. Your going to get a lot of rattleing, and your doors are just not going to shut right anymore.

I owned a cherokee, I speak from experience.

Hehe, guys you are wasting your time here, he is going to work for toyota, he will learn, and will eventually end up with one.

 

[Economos]

Spenc, I've never heard of a failure like that before, what was he doing when the arms spit? I'm still kinda confused as to exactly how the failed though, and I assume we're talking about the SuperFlex arms. Just curious.

 

[I Lean]

Originally posted by spencurai
Forget RE!!! I saw the rear axle literally rip out from under my buddys TJ because of failure of the RE arms on his rig!!! they make SHEITe!!! the threaded sections on his arms wallowed out even after greasing the hell out of them on a regular basis!! talk to 4 Wheel parts and ask them about how many of those kits they have returned!! they are in the works for a class action lawsuit against those guys for putting out an inferior product that could kill someone!!!

You sure that was RE, and not Tera? I'm just wondering because you mention "threaded section".

From what I've observed, RE stuff looks good most of the time, Tera stuff is pretty cheesy.

 

[1968jeepthing]

Ok, lets say that i happen to go wiht a toyota, what would i look for? which ones are the best to get? lets say i decide to get a samuri, whats the deal with them? hows the drivetrain? remember i dont have the resources to do custom suspension and stuff. as of right now i still want to get a xj. how much lift do i need to fit 33s? and do the kits come with the long arms or is that seperate? what woiuld happen if i didnt get the arms? Im not planning on doing hardcore four wheeling, i just wanna be able to keep up with the group.

 

[SuperRunner]

Hmm, to fit 33's on yota

Blocks in the rear
shackles in the front.

$100

Samuria's are pretty good too. I have had a couple of them. If you lift them, and put on big tires, plan on trailiering it. Doesn't have the umph for freeway driving.

Oh, samuria's have an excellent choice for gears too.

Good setup I have seen.

Toyota EFI engine and drivetrain in sammy. That includes toyota axles. Toyota axles are considered full-width for sammy. That way you get to be a lot more stable, but still very small and able to go anywere.

 

[1968jeepthing]

yeah sami sounds ok, but how are the stock axles? i cant do custom fab right now. would it be a decent DD if i had 33s? i hear insurance is a lot for samis

 

[1968jeepthing]

never mind about the sami stuff, i found all the post about it. i was just thinking( i do that too much) a lot of toyotas and stuff are stick shift. i havnt really heard of an auto toyota. i would really really perfer automoatic for off road. the xj seems to be the best bet right now for automatic.

 

[SuperRunner]

There are lots of toyota autos. YOu can also buy an adapter from marlin to bolt up a gear driven transfer. Then you could drop in the 4.7 gear, and away you go.

You still need to gear down with the auto, otherwise you will overheat it and burn up the clutch-pack

 

[yellowjacket]

The guys that are voting "other", what are voting for? 4Runner?

 

[ewander]

gosh, this board is baaaaaaaaaaaaaad. I am ready to buy a toyota.

 

[SuperRunner]

hehe, you would almost think this is a toyota board...aren't there enought of those already?

 

[1968jeepthing]

yeah, i'd still need to gear down, but not nearly as much. as for the over-heating situation, theres always huge tranny coolers i could get. how do the autos hold up to abuse? are they hard to find?

 

[SuperRunner]

if you have power, your clutch packs will start to slip. Already experiencing that in my friends truck running a 7MGTE and auto tranny. Tranny will start to squeal.

 

[Economos]

Originally posted by 1968jeepthing
yeah, i'd still need to gear down, but not nearly as much. as for the over-heating situation, theres always huge tranny coolers i could get. how do the autos hold up to abuse? are they hard to find?

What are we talkin here, Jeeps, 'Yotas, Sammies, what?

 

[1968jeepthing]

in my last post i was talking about toyotas. i'm still planning on going with the xj for now, i just want to explore my options.
If i get an xj and put on 4.5 inches of lift, do i really need the control arms? what would happen if i didnt get them?

 

[SuperRunner]

Your tires will end up in your wells. Pretend your axles can rotate 360 degrees around the piviot point of your links. Is you drop, it will tend to start to rotate around that pivot point, and pulling it toward itself. Maybe I will draw a pic, hard to explain.

In the end, your front will be pulled toward the rear and into the fender. And depending on the panhard, it will move the axle left or right.

 

[1968jeepthing]

ok, i was looking around finding prices for cherokees, a 4.5 inch RE lift for $869.95 lift includes:
U-BOLT KIT 2.75"X9.0"
T-CASE LOWERING KIT XJ/ZJ
BRAKE LINE SS REAR XJ/ZJ
COIL SPRINGS XJ 4.5"
SHACKLE XJ REAR 1.25" LIFT
SWAY BAR DISCONNECT ADAPTER BRACKET XJ-ZJ
SWAY BAR DISC SET W/ 6" CENT
BRAKE LINES SS FT XJ/MJ/ZJ/C
3.5" EXTREME DUTY XJ REAR SPRING
CONTROL ARM SF2 LOWER FIXED
TRACK BAR XJ/MJ/ZJ/TJ 3"+
CONTROL ARM SR2 UPPER FT FIX
BUMP STOP 2" FRT XJ/ZJ/TJ

Is this all i need? it recomended getting a slip yoke eliminator and cv driveshaft, but that would run over $400 alone. would just an Extended Slip Yoke work? would i need to get a new driveshaft too? There was also another kit that was $200 less and the onley difference was that it came with lift blocks and add a leafs for the rear instead of the whole springs. i know it would probably hinder flex but would it be better to go with the cheaper one? remember i'm on an extemely tight budget.

Sorry guys about how long this thread is, i dont know much about cherokees or about budget shopping for lifts. Thanks for all the advice, its been very helpful.

 

[1968jeepthing]

Your tires will end up in your wells. Pretend your axles can rotate 360 degrees around the piviot point of your links. Is you drop, it will tend to start to rotate around that pivot point, and pulling it toward itself. Maybe I will draw a pic, hard to explain.

Yeah, i kinda understand, i think but lets say you were on a $4500 budget and bought an xj, what would you do? get the arms or not?