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descisions- what vehicle?

Which one should i get?

  • CJ-7

    Votes: 1 2.7%

  • Jeep Wrangler YJ

    Votes: 6 16.2%

  • FJ-40 Land Cruiser

    Votes: 6 16.2%

  • International Scout 2

    Votes: 3 8.1%

  • Early Bronco

    Votes: 3 8.1%

  • Jeep Cherokee xj

    Votes: 6 16.2%

  • Other

    Votes: 12 32.4%
  • Total voters
    37
  • Poll closed .
Economos

Economos

Slick
Location
Coastal NC - a LONG way from UT
The stock arms are pure shi!t even for a stock rig. If you look hard enough on the BBs around here, you will find that you can get a pair of lowers for pretty cheap; most anything out there will be better than stock.

Something interesting that some might call "booty-fab", but one of the first TTC competitors had a Chevy Astro with a 44 front and a 14B rear on 38" Boggers (I think). Anyways, his lowers up front were a pair of adjustable hoist arms for a tractor attachment. Yes, again, it sounds very shady and I don't know how it performed, but its an option to consider if you want to save a little bit of cash till you can get some aftermarket lowers. Anyways, they run heims at both ends and are threaded with jam nuts, so you can use them to set your pinion angles. I believe the arms are pretty standard and super tough, not sure about the heims though. Only cost about $20 per arm too.

:D :D :D

Actually, I would give it a shot and see how well it works, you might be somewhat surprised. I would set it up with a pair of mis-alignment bushings on the axle mounts, and block off the side to side motion of the heims on the frame mounts. Make any sense?
 
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Economos

Economos

Slick
Location
Coastal NC - a LONG way from UT
Yes, on the front suspension, you will find two lower control arms. These arms are mounted on either sides of the uni-rails just behind the font fender well. On the axle, you will find two mounts on the bottom of the tubes where the lower control arms (LCAs) mount. Upper control arms (UCAs) are mounted higher above the lowers, on the axle, one mount is found directly over the Dana 30 center section and the other is raised up off the housing on the passenger side. Also, there usually isn't any problems with running stock uppers with a good bit of lift, however, it works better if you replace both uppers and lowers with aftermarket units; better articulation and ride. Again, its not nescessary to replace the stock uppers, I still run mine.

Look on the RE site for lower control arms and you'll see the different kinds they offer.

RE SuperRide LCA - use rubber bushings at both axle and frame mounts but ARE NOT adjustable

RE SuperRide Adjustable LCA - use rubber bushings at both axle and frame mounts but ARE adjustable

RE SuperFlex LCA - use a spherical "Johnny-Joint" at the axle mount and a rubber bushing at the frame and ARE NOT adjusable

RE SuperFlex Adjustable LCA - use a spherical "Johnny-Joint" at the axle mount and a bushing at the frame and ARE adjusable

The UCAs also come with the same options as above. To get the best of both flex and adjusability, the SuperFlex Adjustable arms are the way to go, but are more expensive.

RE Arms and Axle Brackets

HTH.
 
Economos

Economos

Slick
Location
Coastal NC - a LONG way from UT
Dude, keep the questions comming if you've got them, I don't mind in the least. I have plenty of questions I need answered, ask Herzog.:D

Ok, the kit you're looking into, I assume, is the 4.5" RE. I'll say that its a very complete kit with everthing you need. You have the option of upgrading to the SuperFlex Adjustable LCAs, which I would do if the money is there, but not 100% nescessary.

Here are the arms that come with your kit: SuperFlex LCAs

tnRE3700.jpg


Here are the upgrade options (what I run): SuperFlex Adjustable LCAs

tnRE3715.jpg


Now, on to the rear configurations...

I would highly recommend that you spend the extra and get a full spring pack. The AALs will be fine for a few months of abuse, but will eventually flatten out some; not good. However, I will say that running a new pack with a shackle is the way I would go. This will lessen the amount of arch that the spring pack has (6" springs have more arch than 4.5" srpings). With the less arch, the better flex you will achieve a much better upward-downward spring travel. Also, shackles will decrease the amount of driveline angle because the rotate the pinion upwards. With the RE 4.5" kit, they have supplied you with a 'case drop, shackles, and a 6* shim on the bottom of the new springs. These will more than likely eliminate any driveline vibes you have, but there really isn't any way to tell until its installed and you're wheeling. On my rig, this is the exact thing I'm running right now. I've got 6" rear in the way of 3" Rusty's springs (pretty damn flat = excellent flex), 1.5" shackles, and a solid steel 1.5" block paired with the 'case drop and no vibes. Its a cheap way, and will eventually mean that I will have to get an SYE (soon), but will get you through with no problems.

An SYE will totally replace the whole tailshaft of your 'case, converting it to a fixed yoke and will mean that you will have to get a new CV or slip splined custom rear driveshaft made. The "real" SYEs aren't cheap and usually run in the area of $400-$500 with the new driveshaft. RE offers a "Hack and Tap" SYE that requires you to grind and cut on the stock slip yoke, but its very cheap and very effective. To get an idea of what is envolved, click here. A lot of guys I know are running the RE hack and tap with an XJ front driveshaft in the rear and its working VERY well. Usually, if you're in the area of 5"-7", you won't need to modify the front shaft any to fit in the rear, just bolt the u-joints to the yokes and call it a day.

An extended yoke just means that the slip splines on the new yoke are longer, meaning that its still a slip yoke, just longer splines for more exposure. It works, but I would just do the hack and tap for $200. Also, YJ yokes are longer than XJs and run the same spline count on the NP-231, which is either 21 or 23, can't remember.
 
Greg

Greg

Make RME Rockcrawling Again!
Admin
Location
Grand Junction, CO
Originally posted by ewander
gosh, this board is baaaaaaaaaaaaaad. I am ready to buy a toyota.
Click to expand...


I was thinking that eairler today...... We're sounding like a Mob, forcing someone into exactally what they don't want! :eek:

It's all opinions, and you know what those are like!
 
WayneXJ

WayneXJ

grocery getter driver
Location
So. Jordan
You might not even need to bother with the SYE at 4.5". My evil twin(Marc B.) doesn't have one, at 5.5-6" and he hasn't had any problems at all. I guess it just depends on the Jeep.
 
Economos

Economos

Slick
Location
Coastal NC - a LONG way from UT
Don't even kid like that, cause I'll be at your door step before you can log out.:D :D Well, nah, M-715 would be kickass if I could keep my XJ and have another DD.

Hey, wish in one hand, sh!t in the other and see which one fills up first.:D

Actually, I know a guy in Mich. who might just be interested in your '715. He's registered on PBB, I'll go PM him real fast to see if he'd be interested if you want.
 
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