jeepin4x4james
WAAAAA
- Location
- Bluffdale, UT
Those ParkSmart HVAC units are pretty cool, just be sure to keep the filter clean... They're very expensive to replace.
Go big or go home! HD Tow Rig!
- Thread starter Chevycrew
- Start date
Those ParkSmart HVAC units are pretty cool, just be sure to keep the filter clean... They're very expensive to replace.
ChestonScout
opinions are like Jeeps..
- Location
- Clinton, Ut
Mercy sakes looks like we got us a convoy
So my buddy found me a great option for a bed. 96" wide by 16' long flatbed. It has headache rack, steel deck, rear hitch, rear d-rings, trailer plug, rear bumper, mud flaps, rear ladders, clearance lights, side strap winches, and is in great condition. Just needs some paint.
I will be picking up the truck in Portland on the 14th, then I will head down to Eugene to get the bed, and then back home to SLC. (Anyone want to sponsor my fuel?)
Pics of the bed. (I also put more pictures in the first post of the truck)
I will be picking up the truck in Portland on the 14th, then I will head down to Eugene to get the bed, and then back home to SLC. (Anyone want to sponsor my fuel?)
Pics of the bed. (I also put more pictures in the first post of the truck)
Attachments
This brand is a better inverter it has a higher peak flash then then cobra's do. Meaning it will hold the higher then the top amp draw longer
http://www.amazon.com/Whistler-Pro-...UTF8&qid=1394168430&sr=1-21&keywords=inverter
http://www.amazon.com/Whistler-Pro-...UTF8&qid=1394168430&sr=1-21&keywords=inverter
Last edited:
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
is that some kinda bed rug insert?
So here is the plan for wiring inside of the truck...
2500 watt inverter>normally closed side of transfer switch
and
Shore power cable>15 amp battery charger (hooked to batteries)>normally open side of transfer switch
then
transfer switch>power strip>fridge and microwave
This will allow everything to run off of the inverter until I plug in, then it will automatically switch to shore power when it sees the voltage. Since everything will be mounted under the lower bunk, there will be a remote on/off switch mounted up front in the cab for the inverter.
I have 2 banks of batteries, one for the truck system, and one for the APU system.
The inverter will be wired to the APU batteries, the charger will be wired to the trucks batteries.
This should allow everything to charge the same as if the truck was running, but obviously at a lower rate. I was able to find a charger that has manual controls, but switches automatically to float charge. This way I wont have to turn it on each time I plug in. The charger is necessary because the trucks APU HVAC is 12v only.
I think I have this all right...
I also have a Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller that has been sitting in the shop waiting for a home.
2500 watt inverter>normally closed side of transfer switch
and
Shore power cable>15 amp battery charger (hooked to batteries)>normally open side of transfer switch
then
transfer switch>power strip>fridge and microwave
This will allow everything to run off of the inverter until I plug in, then it will automatically switch to shore power when it sees the voltage. Since everything will be mounted under the lower bunk, there will be a remote on/off switch mounted up front in the cab for the inverter.
I have 2 banks of batteries, one for the truck system, and one for the APU system.
The inverter will be wired to the APU batteries, the charger will be wired to the trucks batteries.
This should allow everything to charge the same as if the truck was running, but obviously at a lower rate. I was able to find a charger that has manual controls, but switches automatically to float charge. This way I wont have to turn it on each time I plug in. The charger is necessary because the trucks APU HVAC is 12v only.
I think I have this all right...
I also have a Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller that has been sitting in the shop waiting for a home.
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carsonc1974
Active Member
Pretty Slick!!!
No pics, but I ripped out the factory cabinets today. They were old, brittle and driving me nuts with rattles. Currently the fridge and freezer are sitting behind the passenger seat. Tight fit but will work perfect. I'm going to use the space above the microwave for a open closet of sorts.
Devel
Just an Outlaw....
- Location
- North Salt Lake
well like cheston, call me when you need it towed 
Devel
Just an Outlaw....
- Location
- North Salt Lake
I do strictly heavy duty towing so fill free to call me anytime 801-564-3388 Joel
Thanks!
This past week I was able to get the inverter, transfer switch, surge protector/power strip, shore power cable, battery charger, fridge and microwave all wired in.
Works great. Only issue is the inverter trips the low battery voltage shut down when using the 1000 watt microwave. I have to start the truck, but then its fine.
This weekend I cut down the headache rack to about 2' tall. This will allow the front bumper of the TrailBlazer to pass over and into the gap between the bed and sleeper. I will still have about 10" hanging off the back of the deck with the front tires tight to the front. The overhang will just be the spare tire rack, and should not ever interfere with towing a trailer.
I cut holes in the 1" rubber bed mat and recessed some d-rings. I'm going to try something new (to me) and run a single ratchet strap front to back over each tire. The front strap will hook to the headache rack, then down to the bed. This will hold the TB as far forward as it can go. Both ends of the rear straps will be anchored to the deck. Deck turned out to be 1/4" thick when I drilled through it.
I will get pictures soon.
This past week I was able to get the inverter, transfer switch, surge protector/power strip, shore power cable, battery charger, fridge and microwave all wired in.
Works great. Only issue is the inverter trips the low battery voltage shut down when using the 1000 watt microwave. I have to start the truck, but then its fine.
This weekend I cut down the headache rack to about 2' tall. This will allow the front bumper of the TrailBlazer to pass over and into the gap between the bed and sleeper. I will still have about 10" hanging off the back of the deck with the front tires tight to the front. The overhang will just be the spare tire rack, and should not ever interfere with towing a trailer.
I cut holes in the 1" rubber bed mat and recessed some d-rings. I'm going to try something new (to me) and run a single ratchet strap front to back over each tire. The front strap will hook to the headache rack, then down to the bed. This will hold the TB as far forward as it can go. Both ends of the rear straps will be anchored to the deck. Deck turned out to be 1/4" thick when I drilled through it.
I will get pictures soon.
Yep still slacking on pictures.
Took it in for safety and emissions... That didn't go so well.
Some things I was expecting, but I wanted to get a start on what needed to be fixed.
Backup lights
License plate light
Left steer brakes had bolts instead of clevis pins
Heater blower motor don't work
Frame needs to be full length of bed.
The lights and brakes have been fixed, but I still need to take care of the blower motor, and then do a frame stretch. Adding 6' of frame isn't really that hard, just the cost of the steel and or old frame.
I did manage to come across a set of Flexsteel captains chairs in the wrecking yard. They came out of the middle row of an 80s Chevy Van. Dirty, but in great shape. I adapted these to the air ride bases. Much more comfortable, armrests on both sides, and grey with a hint of red in the seat and back centers. The stock seats were blue, (worse than 80s Toyota blue) and the armrests were broken.
Took it in for safety and emissions... That didn't go so well.
Some things I was expecting, but I wanted to get a start on what needed to be fixed.
Backup lights
License plate light
Left steer brakes had bolts instead of clevis pins
Heater blower motor don't work
Frame needs to be full length of bed.
The lights and brakes have been fixed, but I still need to take care of the blower motor, and then do a frame stretch. Adding 6' of frame isn't really that hard, just the cost of the steel and or old frame.
I did manage to come across a set of Flexsteel captains chairs in the wrecking yard. They came out of the middle row of an 80s Chevy Van. Dirty, but in great shape. I adapted these to the air ride bases. Much more comfortable, armrests on both sides, and grey with a hint of red in the seat and back centers. The stock seats were blue, (worse than 80s Toyota blue) and the armrests were broken.
