Kris K
4x4 Addict!
- Location
- Heber City, UT
Found a Lincoln 225/125 AC/DC and, picked it up for $100. Thanks everyone for your help I'm sure I'll be asking a bunch of questions soon on how to run a AC/DC welder. I've only ran AC before..
Hobart welder?
- Thread starter Kris K
- Start date
I have one of those as well. Compared side by side to a brand new Craftsman AC/DC welder the old lincoln strikes up much easier. I have my notes from when I was figuring mine out, maybe these notes will help you too
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Welding Notes
http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Catalog/consumableseries.asp?browse=104|2030|
http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/weldrod.html
http://www.hobartwelders.com/pdfs/Stick_Welding_Tips.pdf
http://content.lincolnelectric.com/pdfs/products/literature/c210.pdf
E6010 (5P+) Used for all position welding using DC+. It produces a deep penetrating weld and works well on dirty,rusted, or painted metals
E6011 Same characteristics of the E6010, but can be used with AC and DC currents
E6013 Used with AC and DC currents. It produces a medium penetrating weld with a superior weld bead appearance. Not strong enough for structual. Good to fill gaps or holes.
E7018 Known as a low hydrogen electrode and can be used with AC or DC. The coating on the electrode has a low moisture content that reduces the introduction of hydrogen into the weld. Can produce welds of x-ray quality with medium penetration. (Note, this electrode must be kept dry. If it gets wet, it must be dried in a rod oven before use.)
"Personally, I think 7018 is eaiser to weld with then 6011 and produces a nicer looking weld, plus the slag is easier to chip off, so that is what I use in the garage when I have nicely prepped metal."
"Try 3/32 7018 @ 88 to 90 amps on Reverse polarity. It's going to stick a bit on you...don't jerk on it..all the flux will break off, just twist your stinger to release it and gently bend it back and forth till it breaks off. Once it's off put it back in the stinger and ease it into a piece of scrap til the arc starts and hold it til the end cleans up and your ready to go again. The end should have a little cup in it...crumble a bit of the cup off and it will restart easier."
1/16" 20 - 40A UP TO 3/16"
3/32" 40 - 125A UP TO 1/4"
1/8" 75 - 185A OVER 1/8"
5/32" 105 - 250A OVER 1/4"
3/16" 140 - 305A OVER 3/8"
1/4" 210 - 430A OVER 3/8"
5/16" 275 - 450 OVER 1/2"
EXX1X is for use in all positions
EXX2X is for use in flat and horizontal positions
EXX3X is for flat welding
**********************************
Welding Notes
http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Catalog/consumableseries.asp?browse=104|2030|
http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/weldrod.html
http://www.hobartwelders.com/pdfs/Stick_Welding_Tips.pdf
http://content.lincolnelectric.com/pdfs/products/literature/c210.pdf
E6010 (5P+) Used for all position welding using DC+. It produces a deep penetrating weld and works well on dirty,rusted, or painted metals
E6011 Same characteristics of the E6010, but can be used with AC and DC currents
E6013 Used with AC and DC currents. It produces a medium penetrating weld with a superior weld bead appearance. Not strong enough for structual. Good to fill gaps or holes.
E7018 Known as a low hydrogen electrode and can be used with AC or DC. The coating on the electrode has a low moisture content that reduces the introduction of hydrogen into the weld. Can produce welds of x-ray quality with medium penetration. (Note, this electrode must be kept dry. If it gets wet, it must be dried in a rod oven before use.)
"Personally, I think 7018 is eaiser to weld with then 6011 and produces a nicer looking weld, plus the slag is easier to chip off, so that is what I use in the garage when I have nicely prepped metal."
"Try 3/32 7018 @ 88 to 90 amps on Reverse polarity. It's going to stick a bit on you...don't jerk on it..all the flux will break off, just twist your stinger to release it and gently bend it back and forth till it breaks off. Once it's off put it back in the stinger and ease it into a piece of scrap til the arc starts and hold it til the end cleans up and your ready to go again. The end should have a little cup in it...crumble a bit of the cup off and it will restart easier."
1/16" 20 - 40A UP TO 3/16"
3/32" 40 - 125A UP TO 1/4"
1/8" 75 - 185A OVER 1/8"
5/32" 105 - 250A OVER 1/4"
3/16" 140 - 305A OVER 3/8"
1/4" 210 - 430A OVER 3/8"
5/16" 275 - 450 OVER 1/2"
EXX1X is for use in all positions
EXX2X is for use in flat and horizontal positions
EXX3X is for flat welding
start with some E6010 (home depot sales it), weld on DC+ and just spend a few nights welding lines in some scrap steel. don't get lazy and weld the dirty/painted steel, take a few more minutes to clean it before you start. And post some photos so we can see those first welds.
My other hint is that one of those auto-darkening helmets will make it way easier to weld with. The cheapo ones from harbor freight work just fine. That way you can see what you are doing all of the time.
My other hint is that one of those auto-darkening helmets will make it way easier to weld with. The cheapo ones from harbor freight work just fine. That way you can see what you are doing all of the time.
Kris K
4x4 Addict!
- Location
- Heber City, UT
sorry that ones mine.
I wondered if that was the one you found. Good deal.
Kris K
4x4 Addict!
- Location
- Heber City, UT
Yeah I thought it was a great deal the welder does need a new stick holder, the one on there would work just not that good looking. The old man has alot of good tools in his shop.
Kris K
4x4 Addict!
- Location
- Heber City, UT
So a E6010 rod would be best for all around use? So is DC+ reverse polarity and, DC- is negative polarity? Will a E7018 rod work better with DC? This last week i stopped by Lowe's and, was jsut going to pick up some E6011 rods to weld the tabs on my axle for the Hydro assist. Some random guy there told me not to get the 6011 rods and, to get 7018AC rods. So I figure this guy must know alot more then me so I get the 7018AC rods. I got ready to weld the tabs on for the hydro with a barrowed AC welder. I couldn't beleive how crappy my welds where. there was a TON of slag and, the rod melted to fast for me to keep up. Also the rod would bend as I welded. I kind of wish I would have gotten the 6011's as I've welded with them before and,have had some good welds come out with them.
So now I have the AC/DC welder I'm going to go back and, grind off the boggers I left last time and try to make the welds look better with useing the 6010 rods you suggested.
I also plan on getting a helmet pretty soon since I don't have one of my own. Just have to wait a while since i spent the money on the welder.( my wife was glad it was cheap but didn't like it when I told her about a helmet, new rod holder, gloves, cart and other misc's)
If anyone else has some good pointers please let me know.
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I should have added that I am just a hobbiest, and there are some guys here that really do weld. This is just from my experience.
My best suggestion is to buy a few different rods and spend a few minutes a night practicing. I did that for about a month before I felt like I had the hang of it to try my first project (a bumper)
For me I would have to learn how to weld with each different type of rod because they were so different. But I think you will find that the E6010 will be your bread and butter, but it did take a lot longer to make the welds look good and clean (not that my 6010 welds ever look clean). The E7018 I picked up on really quick. It seemed like I could weld a nice little worm on the steel, and when I chipped off the slag the weld looked good too. For my bumper I used 6010 for the root pass, and then went over all my welds again with 7018 after.
DC- is positive or reverse (same thing different name)
Anyone feel free to add or correct me. I am learning as I go too
Kris K
4x4 Addict!
- Location
- Heber City, UT
Is this correct? DC straight = (DC -) ,DC reverse = (DC+)?
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Kris K
4x4 Addict!
- Location
- Heber City, UT
So I'm going to pick up some E6010's and, set the DC to +. Since I already have some 7018AC's i'll use them on AC only to fill in. And use the 6010's on DC for the heavy stuff. After I use up the 7018AC's I'll get some 7018's that work for DC.
You have that backwards.
Kris K
4x4 Addict!
- Location
- Heber City, UT
I got it from one of the links you left me. Just want to make sure I understand the diffrent settings on the welder.
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Kris K
4x4 Addict!
- Location
- Heber City, UT
It looks like from looking on Linclons website that I can run the 7018AC's I already got will run on DC+. So they won't be a waste after all.
With your welder you should be able to burn anything. You will just find that some work better than others for what you are doing.
Kris K
4x4 Addict!
- Location
- Heber City, UT
I never said my notes were accurate
Just from my reading it says that DC+ will penatrate better and, that DC- dosen't penatrate as much. So DC+ is for heavier stuff while DC- is for sheet metal. Atleast this is what I'm getting from the web. Alot of people say put it on DC+ and, break the knob off so you can't change it
.
Kris K
4x4 Addict!
- Location
- Heber City, UT
Still haven't welded with the new welder, still need a extension cord for it. Need atleast 50' of cord. From reading on the welding forums I should be able to get away with 10ga 3 wire plugging into a my dryer outlet.. How much power will I lose with 50' of cord?