Hole in the Rock, my slow crawl through Hell...

moab_cj5

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Has this ever happened to you: After the longest week you can remember, you are 30+ miles from the nearest paved road, on a trail you have wanted to run for almost 20 years, you are so close to the end you can't imagine not making it(maybe 2 miles from the end of the trail), your health isn't quite 100% because you have been sick for 3 days, you are crawling along at a snail's pace due to the extremely rough terrain; then dropping down a wall, you hear that heart dropping, stomach churning, unmistakable, horrifying, make you want to throw up, pinging sound of metal breaking. You get out to survey the damage, and at first don't see anything amiss. Then you see it. As the severity of the break settles in, you start to think: how in the world am I going to get this Jeep 30+ miles off the roughest, longest trail, you have ever tried, then 350+ miles home, with a broken coilover shock?

It happened to me last week on the East side of the Hole in the Rock trail.

This trip report will be light on pictures because it was essentially broken into 2 missions: 1) Get to the end of the trail, 2) After the break, get the Jeeps off the trail without breaking anything else. Hence, pictures were kind of an afterthought for me. We took some, but not nearly as many as I normally would.

My story begins many years ago: 1997 is my first recalled trip to the West side of Hole in the Rock. I remember going with my dad, camping on the trail, and observing the comet Hale-Bopp from our camp at Sooner Wash. That may have been my first trip and my first history lesson on the pioneers and the area, but I can’t remember for sure.

Anyway, that trip piqued my interest in the history of the Hole in the Rock pioneers, and the rest of the trail. Then, as a young man, I read the book The Shadow Taker. That book really got me interested in driving the East side of the trail.

For the last couple of years, I have had a strengthening desire to run the East side of the trail, and late last year I decided that 2014 would be my year. In preparation, I read several trip reports on RME and Expedition Utah, planned a trip to do the Escalante side again to refresh my memory of that side of the journey (I did that trip in April), bought a new winch and air compressor for my Jeep, and planned to do the trip in June thinking it wouldn’t be unbearably hot yet. I also recruited my Dad and oldest Son to make the trip with me.

The adventure, and bad omens, started days before I even left my house for the trip. I have been busy at work and home since my trip on the West side in April, and I was late in wrapping up the preparation of my Jeep and finalizing trail plans and details.

Bad Omen #1: on Saturday May 31, in an attempt to at least prep my Jeep, I changed the air filter, changed the oil, and started greasing my control arms and steering components. As I put my grease gun on the first zirk I could get to on the passenger side upper control arm, the zirk pulled out of the control arm end. I was astonished, maddened, and frustrated right away. In an attempt to cool off, I proceeded to try another zirk on the driver side. It broke off right above the threads. Even more frustrated, annoyed, and generally pissed off, I went back to the passenger side to see if I could thread a new zirk into the first end I attempted. With no luck, and no room to tap new threads into the end without tearing down the end, I attempted to grease another end on the passenger side. Guess what happened next…it broke too! I was speechless (other than the slew of profanity that likely spewed forth from my mouth).

Crawling out from under my Jeep, totally disgusted at the prospect of not getting to go on this trip because of broken zirk fittings on my control arms, I went in the house to cool off and gather my thoughts. After a few minutes of cooling down and clear thinking, I determined to pull the Jeep into my garage, drop the control arms out from under the Jeep, replace the broken zirks if possible without tearing the ends apart, and hopefully not have to get an alignment Monday before leaving Tuesday.

Starting at about 7 pm Sat night, It took about an hour to clean up my woodworking mess enough to get the Jeep into the garage and on Jack stands so I could get the first arm out to tear the end down and re-tap the threads. I soon realized I didn’t have the right size snap ring pliers to get the end apart, so I spent the next hour driving to Lowes, Home Depot, Autozone in Kaysville, then Autozone in Layton to get a set of pliers heavy enough to remove the snap ring and get the arm end apart.

Once apart, I was surprised to find the internals of the arm end to be plastic, dirty, and coated in little to no grease. I re-tapped the threads for the zirk, scrubbed everything with a soft brush and brake cleaner, took my dremel with a wire wheel to the inside of the arm end to get the most stubborn crud off, then coated everything in fresh grease, and reassembled the end. Replacement of all arm ends is now in the near future on the Jeep.

That was easy enough I thought, so I moved onto the other broken zirk on the passenger side. As I loosened the bolt holding the arm to the axle, I noticed the washers covering the alignment slots were not welded in place per the instructions for the lift kit (I looked at the lift instructions to find what to torque the bolts to when I put the arms back in). This meant I would be making an appointment first thing Monday morning for an alignment (not in the budget for this trip). Since that zirk broke above the threads, It was as simple as putting a socket on the nut and backing it out. If only there had been room to get it out without dropping the arm! Reassembly was easy from there, but time was not on my side.

With the passenger side buttoned up, I moved to the driver side. I dropped the arm out and noticed the washers weren’t welded on that side either, and that the zirk broke below the hex in the arm end. I rummaged through my toolbox for my bolt extractor set, hoping I had one that would fit since it was 11 pm on a Saturday night. I found my set, had one that would work, and got after removing the broken threads. After reassembly, I tried to grease the fittings on the other end of the arm, only to find they can’t be accessed with a standard grease coupling. Plan A was to lift the front end as high as possible, hoping that would get the arm to drop enough to get a grease fitting on the zirk. No luck. Plan B was to drop the axle end of the arm again and then try to grease the fitting. Success, but a lot more time consuming!

After wrapping up all the repairs, it was 3 am Sunday morning and I had developed a nasty cough. I was done with my repairs though, and the trip as still on!

Bad Omen #2: Monday morning, waking up feeling like I had been hit by a truck, I made a call to Fat Bobs garage in Layton to schedule an alignment and have them weld the washers in place on the axle so I could drop the arms out again without having to worry about alignment if I didn’t change the length at all. They had time to do it that day, so I threw my bike into the Jeep and headed over to drop it off.

It is only a 3.5 mile bike ride from Fat Bobs to my house, but when I got home, I was EXHAUSTED. I tried getting some work done, but ended up heading for my bed. After some not so pleasant bodily functions later, I spent the entire day in bed, only waking up occasionally to take conference calls for work and then to pick up my Jeep from Fat Bobs. I decided that if I still felt horrible Tuesday, the trip was off.

Tuesday I woke up and felt slightly better, so I texted my Dad and the trip was still on, but I had a TON of work to do. I got busy working and put off packing and other trip prep in an attempt to get some work done for my Job, and preserve an income for my family. After getting several things off my to-do list, and speaking with my boss, I shut down my computer around 3:30 pm and began assembling my gear for the trip. I even threw in some extra tools I don’t always carry.

Loaded up, gassed up, and ready to roll around 7 pm, my oldest son and I hit the road to my dad’s house. He was just finishing loading his jeep on the trailer when we arrived, and a few minutes later (5+ hours later than we originally planned), we were off to Hanksville.

Still feeling weak and not 100% healthy, I wanted to camp in Spanish Fork canyon. Looking at the map from the rest stop in SF Canyon, we decided to go to the Price Recreation Area for the night. Never having been there, and not knowing exactly where the turn off was, my dad past it before he could stop, so onward we went. We ended up driving to the turn off for Goblin Valley just north of Hanksville, and camped on a knoll overlooking the valley. It wasn’t the best camp spot, but we were exhausted and ready for bed.
 
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moab_cj5

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Day 1 on the trail.

We awoke early on Wednesday morning as the sun came up before 6:30 am, and since I had picked such an awesome camp spot, there was no shade from the rising sun and the tent was heating up quick. We ate a quick breakfast of oatmeal, packed up camp, and hit the road to Hanksville for fuel.

View from Camp

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After gassing up, using the restroom, and picking up some pepto, we were on the road to the Cal Black Airport outside Halls Crossing. Since the Ferry is closed, we had to go the long way around to get to the trailhead. The drive is beautiful none the less. I really liked the bridge across the Dirty Devil River, and the canyon we drove through to get there.

We got to the airport, met the operators, I topped off my Jeep, and my dad unloaded his Jeep. The young couple running the airport are really nice folks. After talking to them for a minute, I found that the husband is a decedent of the Hole in the Rock Pioneers.

After making sure everything was packed and secure, we headed out on the trail just West of the airport. Bad Omen #3: after just a couple of miles down the trail, my dad’s fan was hitting his shroud. We bent the shroud away from the fan, figuring it was just pushed in a little, and continued on down the road. We passed the old international truck after the Lake Canyon Junction, and stopped at the Half Track to check that out.

Half Track

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Found this cool marker

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My dad’s fan was still hitting the shroud, so upon further inspection we found he was missing the bolts that hold up his transfer case cross member on the passenger side. We were only 6 or so miles down the trail and began weighing our options. Using some trail ingenuity, we found 2 bolts that would work, secured the cross member, and set out on the trail again.

If you follow the signs from the highway, the first 10, or likely more, miles of the trail are just a dirt road (leaving from the airport, the road is rough for several miles before softening along the graded dirt road). We made good time until we reached the top of the hill and turned west toward the original trail. Reading trip reports that mention how rough this trail sink in to my feeble brain, and I underestimated how freaking rough this trail is! It is ROUGH!

Descending the hill to meet back up with the original trail is kind of hard to follow the trail. You have to be very observant to follow the occasional white lines, cairns, tire marks, and rebar in the rock. As we came off one particularly steep section, you descend and need to turn immediately right. My dad went first and took a line to the left, which certainly favored his short, narrow Jeep. I took a line a little more right and felt the passenger front tire start into a hole. Not enjoying that feeling, and not wanting to lay my jeep on its side, I braked, reversed until the tires spun a little, repositioned, and went further right. I wish I would have taken some pictures of the spot. It certainly got my attention.

From the top of the hill looking toward Lake Powel.

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From that point, there are plenty of rough sections, but no major challenges that come to mind until you get to Grey Mesa.
The sign right before it starts getting interesting.

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A few hundred feet south of this sign, there is a wall you drop down. My dad went first, and without stopping to scout the best line down, he went a little to the right.

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Not all of those marks are his, but some of them are. He put his passenger rear tire in the whole, landed the rear axle on a rock, and was very effectively stuck with the front axle in the sand. With me behind him and still above the wall, and no safe way to go around, pulling him out wasn’t an option. We broke out the high lift jack and shovel, trying to lift the tires and get rocks under them. We had to use his bottle jack to lift the rear axle up high enough to get the rock out from under the axle to finally free him.

Free of that little hole, we moved further down the trail. The sun was setting, but we didn’t see a nice place to camp (so we thought) and continued on, wanting to get to the other side of the Mesa for the day. The climb up Grey Mesa from there was very interesting, fun, and challenging. It certainly demands attention to make a safe climb up.

We made it to the top of the Mesa just before the sun started to set. The views were AMESOME!

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We made good time along the top of the Mesa, and started descending the other side. As we were headed down, we looked at the map and found we were likely only 4-5 miles from the end of the trail. We found a place along the trail that looked softer than the rest, and decided to call it a night.

Camp spot.

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moab_cj5

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Day 2: The longest day EVER.

Like the day before, with no protection from the sun, the tent turned into an oven at 6:15 am and we were up. Still not feeling 100% healthy, we cleaned up camp a bit, boiled some water, and ate some rehydrated eggs. Not long after eating the eggs, I left them on the side of the trail again and turned to some fruit we had packed.

Camp in the morning.

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Found this cool water hole right next to our camp.

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After cleaning up camp, and leaving my breakfast in the dirt off the side of the trail, I took a short 10 min nap to regain enough energy to finish the trail.

I had been SOOOO looking forward to the end of the trail, and making the hike to the end, but just didn’t feel very good that morning. As I sat there, the bad thoughts kept streaming through my mind…What do you do if someone is bit by a snake? What do we do if we have a catastrophic failure on one of the vehicles? If something happens, will I make it back home in time to catch my flight Sunday night for work? It wasn’t the right state of mind for being on this trail!

Having regained some strength, I jumped in the Jeep and we were off. Not too far from camp, we encountered the Chute. What a fun obstacle! We descended the Chute, climbed the other side, and were getting excited to get to the end of the trail.

I can’t believe the pioneers took wagons with wooden wheels over some of this terrain. It was challenging enough to get my Jeep through!

After some tough climbs, and off camber descents, I approached my would-be nemesis. It isn’t that scary of a spot, nor is it that technical or challenging. My problem was, as I came off the wall, there was a medium sized rock at the bottom. I put my driver’s side font tire between the rock and the wall as I came down.

Thinking I could just power over the rock, I gave it a little gas. As we bounced over the larger than I originally thought rock, I heard that unmistakable, gut wrenching, punch in the face, pinging sound of metal giving way.

I pulled a little further up the trail so my dad could come off the wall, and examined the Jeep for the break. After a few minutes, I saw it. The driver’s side shock wasn’t attached at the axle anymore, and the spring had lost its guide for an up and down plane of movement. My heart sunk. All those bad thoughts and scenario’s that had run through my mind 2 hours earlier came flooding back.

It was Thursday around 11 am. We were easily 9 hours, and 34 miles from the paved road. We had to go back the way we came. Can I drive the jeep with a broken shock? How do I keep the spring in place? Can the Willy’s make the trip out, back, and out again? Can I even get parts to fix it anywhere near here? How much is this going to cost?

For the first time on the trail, I was grateful to have cell phone coverage. I looked up a 4x4 shop in Moab, and the first one to pop up on Google was Moab 4x4 Outpost. I called them up and talked to the owner Steve. I described my predicament, and asked him what my options were. He informed me that he could overnight some parts to Moab, but I still had to get there. I wasn’t willing to pay his $150 per hour delivery fee...so we explored what parts to have overnighted. He got my info and said he would call me back with some options. I asked how he thought I could get my Jeep off the trail, and he suggested stabilizing the spring with ratchet straps, and try to drive out with the spring moving in a mostly up and down plane.

Luckily, we had 2 ratchet straps, so we broke out the high lift, jacked up the Jeep to take the weight off the spring, repositioned the shock and spring, put the weight back on the spring, and threw the straps on, and decided to give it a try.

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We turned around, and quickly approached my nemesis. Going up was going to be interesting. Not only did I not know how the jeep would handle with a broken shock, but I didn’t know if the straps would hold the spring in plane, how tight to make them, and how often would I have to stop and reposition the straps and shock.

Surprising enough, the jeep handled close to the same with the broken shock. It walked right up the wall and soon enough we were back on top of the hill looking back at the Chute. This was the first of about 100 stops on the way out to jack up the jeep, reposition the shock, readjust the straps, and drive a few more feet through some obstacles. It seemed that after every full cycle of the suspension, we had to jack up the jeep, and reposition everything.

Just about to enter the Chute to go back up.

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As we limped into the Chute, I got a call back from Steve at M4O, giving me my options. He could get me a set of Fox Coilovers for about $1200 that had 2” less travel than my Dirt Logic Coilovers, 2 new Dirt Logic Coilovers for roughly $1400 (nobody had just one), or the parts to rebuild my shock. I opted for the rebuild parts, hoping it would be the cheapest option.

The problem: It was Thursday afternoon, I was still over 30 miles from the paved road and then 150 miles of pavement to Moab, M4O is closed on Saturday (but said they would be willing to work on Sat for extra $$$), and I had a plane to catch on Sunday night for work. Basically, I had to get to Moab Friday before 3 pm so they could get my shock rebuilt and get me back on the road before they close for the weekend. The prospect seemed daunting, but possible. We just had to get moving.

Back through all the obstacles in reverse was uneventful enough; we just had to stop what seemed to be a couple thousand times to jack up the Jeep, readjust the straps, shock rod, and springs, and then push on to the end.

We did stop in a few areas to snap some pics on the way out. These 2 are from the top of Grey Mesa, looking down on the San Juan river.

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Looking west toward the lake.

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The spot where my dad got stuck was weighing on his mind. Funny how things stick with you when you take the wrong line and you feel they are going to be impossible to go up. Needless to say, he walked right up that area without trouble.

After a LONG, bumpy, slow ride out, we got to the blacktop at 9:30 pm. We aired up the tires and headed west to the airport to pick up the truck and trailer, gas up, and begin the journey to Moab.

The day was not over yet. The thought was to load my Jeep on the trailer and drag it to Moab, but my Jeep is 3 inches too wide to fit on my dad’s trailer. So, plan b: drive my Jeep at 40-50 mph to Moab with the broken shock stabilized with the straps.

We gassed up at the Cal Black Airport, loaded up my dad’s Jeep on the trailer, secured everything for the trek, and headed out around 11 pm. We hoped to get to Blanding before stopping for the night to camp. We ended up getting to just north of Blanding, and camped at a Forest Service campground between Blanding and Monticello.

I was so tired, I didn’t even get the tent out. My son and I just setup our cots on the concrete pad and, for the first time on the trip, I slept in a sleeping bag. My dad slept in the cab of his truck.
 
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moab_cj5

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Even though I was exhausted from the day before, I didn’t sleep well. My bag was too warm for the temps, and just as I was about to sleep, a truck would run down the highway and keep me up. At 6:15 am, we were up and rolling.

We finally got to M4O at 8:10 am on Friday morning and found the parts would likely arrive around 10. We left the Jeep and headed to the Moab Diner for Breakfast. It was the first time all week I actually felt like eating anything.

We burned some time walking around Moab, and waited for the Jeep to get fixed. Around 1:45 they had the Jeep buttoned up and we were on the road home. The cause of my break was a clearance issue under the lower shock mount on the axle. Apparently, the shock was binding and unable to move in its full range of motion. This trail took its toll and broke the shock. I still need to pull the passenger side and make sure I don’t have the same issue on that side, so I can prevent this break in the future.

What I learned from this trip:

  1. I have it so easy compared to the Pioneers! I am amazed at their faith, determination, and ability to overcome.
  2. I will ALWAYS have a high lift jack and ratchet straps on the trail. It is amazing what you can fix and get out of if you are prepared and stay calm, cool, and collected.
  3. Enjoy the journey and take everything in stride. Worrying and getting upset doesn’t fix the problem, it just ruins the trip. I still had a blast despite the damage, and not reaching the end.
  4. I will never do this trail alone. I am not opposed to wheeling alone, but I will always go with at least one other vehicle for long, difficult trails like this. The potential for a bad outcome alone is too great to ignore.
  5. I won’t take this, or any other, trail for granted. A seemingly easy obstacle hobbled my Jeep. I will respect the trail and obstacles to avoid being stranded a long way from help.

I WILL be back to complete the trail, but it likely won’t be for a few years. There are a few things I need to check out and ensure are in top shape before I do it again. The trail literally beat us and our Jeeps up. You want to be in top mechanical shape to complete this trail.

Thanks for reading this far (assuming someone did… :)). The trip was a blast. I will be sure to take more pictures the next time I do this trail.
 
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