How thick for a skid plate?

Caleb

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#1
For the underside of my buggy...I have been thinking 3/16 but if I can get away with thinner then I would like to...it will have no structural support as all the crossmembers are all done out of tube, so its just merely a skid plate...
 

RockMonkey

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#3
If you're gonna bolt it on I'd go 1/8". If you want to weld it do thicker. Mine is less than 1/8, I think it's 12 gauge. I intended to replace it after one comp, but it has held up remarkably well, and I have yet to replace it. I think I put it on three comps ago, and have doing a lot of trail wheeling in between too.
 

Caleb

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#5
Hickey said:
post a picture of the area it will be covering.

here is a pic of the area, its about 3' long and about 28" wide...nothing will be welded to it, its just gonna be bolted on with 6-8 1/2" bolts...
 

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
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#8
Hickey said:
1/8" would prolly be fine, but I would weld some flat bar to it in a few places to help keep the shape.
Yeah, second that. I welded a peice of thin by small rectangle tubing across the front edge of my skid to keep it flat.
 

Caleb

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#14
Shawn said:
Interesting crossmember..

whats interesting about it:confused:



I think what I am gonna do is 1/8" with the edges bent up at a 45* to give it some structural(and so there is no lip to catch on rocks) then I will also weld some flatbar on end to it to give the middle portions some rigidity...
 

Shawn

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#15
supergper said:
whats interesting about it:confused:
I just have not seen a cross member mounter that way. Most I have seen/done have been hard mounted to the frame and the poly was mounted to the trany/t case. I say interesting because it is nifty. ;)
 

Caleb

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#16
Shawn said:
I just have not seen a cross member mounter that way. Most I have seen/done have been hard mounted to the frame and the poly was mounted to the trany/t case. I say interesting because it is nifty. ;)

thats the way I have always seen them too, so when they thought of this way I was diggin it...:D
 

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
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#17
Shawn said:
I just have not seen a cross member mounter that way. Most I have seen/done have been hard mounted to the frame and the poly was mounted to the trany/t case. I say interesting because it is nifty. ;)
I dig it! :D Shawn, there was really no room under the HHHUUUUUUUGGGEEE 203/205 combo for a traditional mount, unless we wanted to kill the possibility of a flat skidplate, or raise the t-case up more. This way allowed the T-cases to sit as low as possible, without having anything protrude below the "frame rails".
 

Hickey

Rusty Girdle
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#18
Personally I would not run that type of crossmember. I have heard of quite a few people cracking tranny cases and/or bellhousings because of the lack of movement at the south end of the drivetrain.
 

Caleb

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#19
Hickey said:
Personally I would not run that type of crossmember. I have heard of quite a few people cracking tranny cases and/or bellhousings because of the lack of movement at the south end of the drivetrain.

I dont see how there will be lack of movement? normally all the mounts are on individual mounts where this has all of them on two rubber mounts? If anything I see this having more movement than a traditional style mount...

and the lack of movement come from when guys have rubber motor mounts and poly tranny mounts, if the mounts are the same or softer in the south end then there shouldn;t be any problems...
 

Shawn

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#20
Hickey said:
Personally I would not run that type of crossmember. I have heard of quite a few people cracking tranny cases and/or bellhousings because of the lack of movement at the south end of the drivetrain.
I could kinda see how this might be. There are bushings on the mount, however they are not as thick as stock type ones would be. Maybe adding another soft mount under the t case and trany might help. Just a thin disk.

guess we will find out.
 
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