How to: attach jeep to trailer?

SAMI

Formerly Beardy McGee
Location
SLC, UT
i chain down the rear from the axle, corner to corner while out of gear.....then tie down the front in the 'X' style really tight. then when the thing won't budge, i put it into reverse and e-brake it...

i'd say you wanna get like 3-6"s of flex compressed, you don't want there to be any movement at all!

so don't skimp in the strap/chain dept......go crazy on it is what i say...
 

James K

NO, I'm always like this
Location
Taylorsville, Ut
RedRock5.9 said:
No, more importantly this is why you use a trailer purpose-built for what you are towing. A trailer built to haul your Jeep is much different than a trailer for hauling your lawn mowers and garbage around.


Thats my thoughts
 

cyberduke

Hairy Bagel
Location
S. Jordan
I'm probably just simple (read dumb) but I'm not a big fan of the 'X' pattern. Personally I think your best bet is to have your 2 anchor points (trailer to vehicle) as close to each other as possible. 4 times, once at each corner. Plus you want the anchor point on the vehicle above the suspension and compress it. For folks doing just the axles, the rig will flex and can bounce the **** out of the trailor. The whole 'X' thing worries me. I can imagine the trailor hitting something at speed cause the suspension on the towed vehicle to compress enough that if it happened to sway too, it could come right over. Probably won't happen. But I just think the 4 corner thing is the safest!

-Earl (what the hell do I know)
 

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
cyberduke said:
I'm probably just simple (read dumb) but I'm not a big fan of the 'X' pattern. -Earl (what the hell do I know)
Me neither, but what do I know? I am just a dumb tru....... you know the rest ;)
My point in posting that link is, what would happen if you were set up with straps in the rear and rear ended someone? or lost control and went into the ditch? you would now have 3 projectiles instead of two, or possibly one if your trailer and hitch were proper.
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
Chains.....nylon stuff sucks.....



.....ask your friendly flatbed wrecker driver what they use. Chains in the rear and an industrial Ramsey winch in the front.
 

utahxjer

Well-Known Member
mbryson said:
Chains.....nylon stuff sucks.....



.....ask your friendly flatbed wrecker driver what they use. Chains in the rear and an industrial Ramsey winch in the front.
oh even better, what about a hand crank (winch) up front?
 

kirk86CJ

Registered User
Location
Riverton, Ut
I use one long chain in the front that runs accross the front of the trailer, through some d rings, then back around the front axle, and hooked back to itself on each side. On the rear, I bought those 5" (I think) ratchet type things that flatbet trailers used to tie down their loads. (They run along the side of the trailers ever 3 or 4 ft). I then bought a 30 ft piece of 5" strap. We cut two pieces about 10 ft long and sewed loops in one end of each strap. To tie the jeep down, I get it on the trailer about 3" further ahead than I want it, get out and hook up the front chain, then loop each strap around the rear axle, through the loops we sewed on, then back around the "rollers" that are attached to the rear of the trailer. I then use a 4' breaker bar to tighten the straps down.(tight!) It works ok. The only thing that I worry about is the fact that the front chain is one big long piece. If one side came apart, the whole thing would loosen up. I am planning on either cutting my chain in two, or getting two shorter chains. Then, I would have 4 seperate points.

All tie down points were located to be a straight shot from the axle.

I got the roller ratchet things at Semi Service for under $10.00 each. I think the 30' roll up strap was under $10.00.
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
kirk86CJ said:
I use one long chain in the front that runs accross the front of the trailer, through some d rings, then back around the front axle, and hooked back to itself on each side. On the rear, I bought those 5" (I think) ratchet type things that flatbet trailers used to tie down their loads. (They run along the side of the trailers ever 3 or 4 ft). I then bought a 30 ft piece of 5" strap. We cut two pieces about 10 ft long and sewed loops in one end of each strap. To tie the jeep down, I get it on the trailer about 3" further ahead than I want it, get out and hook up the front chain, then loop each strap around the rear axle, through the loops we sewed on, then back around the "rollers" that are attached to the rear of the trailer. I then use a 4' breaker bar to tighten the straps down.(tight!) It works ok. The only thing that I worry about is the fact that the front chain is one big long piece. If one side came apart, the whole thing would loosen up. I am planning on either cutting my chain in two, or getting two shorter chains. Then, I would have 4 seperate points.

All tie down points were located to be a straight shot from the axle.

I got the roller ratchet things at Semi Service for under $10.00 each. I think the 30' roll up strap was under $10.00.


I prefer your method, just in reverse. The chain in the rear, and the strap(s) in the front. I wouldn't worry much about the chain. You'll know it's coming apart long before it does (I doubt you'll use it that long to be honest).

The logic being that the chain is going to be the stress point on hard braking and will take more stress with LESS flex than the straps in that situation. To me, that seems like the most likely 'emergency maneuver ' while towing. Tough to plan for the side to side type of maneuver, though.
 

cruiseroutfit

Cruizah!
Moderator
Vendor
Location
Sandy, Ut
6000lb Vehicle
1000lb Trailer
85mph-0mph in 50 ft (that is a FAST theoretical stop)

Vf^2=Vi^2 + 2a(x2-x1)

0Mph=85mph^2 + 2a(50ft)
a= -155.4177778 ft/s^2

F=ma
F=(7000lb)(155.417778ft/s^2)
F=33813.72545 lbf

So those two straps on the rear would have to hold almost 17k EACH... most are rated at 10k...

Of course 85-0 in 50 ft is a VERY fast stop (hitting a tree, underpass, etc...)
 

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
mbryson said:
I prefer your method, just in reverse. The chain in the rear, and the strap(s) in the front. I wouldn't worry much about the chain. You'll know it's coming apart long before it does (I doubt you'll use it that long to be honest).

The logic being that the chain is going to be the stress point on hard braking and will take more stress with LESS flex than the straps in that situation. To me, that seems like the most likely 'emergency maneuver ' while towing. Tough to plan for the side to side type of maneuver, though.


thats exactly how and why I do it this way...chain in the rear straps in the front...I hook up the rear then go forward till the chain is tight then I cinch it extra tight with some HD rachet straps in the front...this summer I will be redoing my trailer with D-Rings at each corner (right now I only have stake pockets)...
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
cruiseroutfit said:
6000lb Vehicle
1000lb Trailer
85mph-0mph in 50 ft (that is a FAST theoretical stop)

Vf^2=Vi^2 + 2a(x2-x1)

0Mph=85mph^2 + 2a(50ft)
a= -155.4177778 ft/s^2

F=ma
F=(7000lb)(155.417778ft/s^2)
F=33813.72545 lbf

So those two straps on the rear would have to hold almost 17k EACH... most are rated at 10k...

Of course 85-0 in 50 ft is a VERY fast stop (hitting a tree, underpass, etc...)

OK, junior 'nuber spewer', enginerd.....:D :D :D

Let's assume you didn't hit anything and could slow your rig down (assuming the same weights) in 180ft.....(I doubt that as that MUCHO weight) on just a fast stop without the 'assistance' of hitting anything.

What's a chain 'rating'? I seem to remember them being in the 15,000 lb-20,000 lb. range for a decent 3/8" logging type chain (anybody know, that's kind of a large range).

My gut tells me, I'd trust the chain more than the straps for stress on the rear.
 

kirk86CJ

Registered User
Location
Riverton, Ut
supergper said:
thats exactly how and why I do it this way...chain in the rear straps in the front...I hook up the rear then go forward till the chain is tight then I cinch it extra tight with some HD rachet straps in the front...this summer I will be redoing my trailer with D-Rings at each corner (right now I only have stake pockets)...

I'm curious when you guys say ratchet straps what you mean. Are these the kind that have a 6" handle that you tighten with your hand?

I think the ones I have are a lot better. ;)

Also, I did want to put the chain in the back, and tighten with straps in the front, but I didn't want the roller ratchets bolted to the front of the trailer, and me squeezed between the front of the trailer and the truck. Sounds kinda silly now.

I prefer your method, just in reverse. The chain in the rear, and the strap(s) in the front. I wouldn't worry much about the chain. You'll know it's coming apart long before it does (I doubt you'll use it that long to be honest).

Just curious what you mean?
 

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
kirk86CJ said:
I'm curious when you guys say ratchet straps what you mean. Are these the kind that have a 6" handle that you tighten with your hand?

I think the ones I have are a lot better. ;)

Also, I did want to put the chain in the back, and tighten with straps in the front, but I didn't want the roller ratchets bolted to the front of the trailer, and me squeezed between the front of the trailer and the truck. Sounds kinda silly now.

I prefer your method, just in reverse. The chain in the rear, and the strap(s) in the front. I wouldn't worry much about the chain. You'll know it's coming apart long before it does (I doubt you'll use it that long to be honest).

Just curious what you mean?


just curious but what kind of straps do you use? Yes, I use the kind you strap down with your hand...the ones I use are rated at 15000 lbs, they are huge industrial types (I got them form my old work where the truck dirvers would use them to secure loads)
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
kirk86CJ said:
I'm curious when you guys say ratchet straps what you mean. Are these the kind that have a 6" handle that you tighten with your hand?

I think the ones I have are a lot better. ;)

Also, I did want to put the chain in the back, and tighten with straps in the front, but I didn't want the roller ratchets bolted to the front of the trailer, and me squeezed between the front of the trailer and the truck. Sounds kinda silly now.

I prefer your method, just in reverse. The chain in the rear, and the strap(s) in the front. I wouldn't worry much about the chain. You'll know it's coming apart long before it does (I doubt you'll use it that long to be honest).

Just curious what you mean?


Ratchet type straps. (to me = a general term for nylon straps of various widths, 3", 4", 6" width) It sounds like you purchased the ratcheting device that is normally welded to the sides of a flatbed on an 18 wheeler. I'd bet that will work, but I'd always be concerned about how the straps are wearing. They are commonly found in 4" flavor? Big enough, in my opinion.

The chain will last indefinitely, as long as it's not stressed to it's limits. As long as you don't stress it, I don't think you'll have any trouble with it.
 

kirk86CJ

Registered User
Location
Riverton, Ut
supergper said:
just curious but what kind of straps do you use? Yes, I use the kind you strap down with your hand...the ones I use are rated at 15000 lbs, they are huge industrial types (I got them form my old work where the truck dirvers would use them to secure loads)

The actual ratchet was what I was refering to. Like I said earlier, I use a 4' breaker bar and really lean on it to crank that baby down. (BTW - I'm not beating my chest or anything)

I just called Semi Service. They call these things I have 'winches' They are made to hold 4" strap which they told me is rated for 10K lbs.

I don't know if I have explained these strap winches well enough for you to know what I am talking about, but they are pretty heavy - I'm guessing 3/8"
 
Top