Justin's TJ

Owners Name & City- Justin, Payson

Make, Model & Year of Vehicle- 2000 Jeep Wrangler Sport

Engine- 4.0
Transmission- NV3550
T-Case- Advance Adapters Atlas ll 4.3:1

Axles-
Gear Ratio: 4.88
Rear: Ford Explorer 8.8 w/ ARB Air Locker
Front: G2 HP Core44 w/ Detroit

Suspension-
Hybrid: 3" BDS Coils, Currie Antirocks Fore and Aft, Home-brew 3-link front, Triangulated 4-link rear M.O.R.E. 1" Body Lift

Wheels and Tires-37" STT Pro's and Walker Evans Beadlocks

Winch- Warn 9.5 CTI

Favorite Trails-Anything difficult enough I can get my adrenaline fix, but not destroy my junk in the process.

I bought it in Oct 2008. It was wrecked, but still had a clean title. Fixed it up, and daily drove it for years. It has gone through several iterations over the years, first on a 4" lift and 31's, then 4" lift and 33's, then 4" lift and 35's, then 4" lift, 1" body, and 35's, now 3" lift 1" body and 35's. Since getting married, progress on this has been slow, usually 1 major thing a year. 2 years ago was tires, last year was the HP30, and this year was Corbeau Baja RS seats.

 

[RockChucker]

I’ve never heard that. I think Yukon sells a pressure switch that runs 85-105 or 110 psi. I’ve always just run the switch that came with my arb compressor.

 

[kmboren]

I’ve never heard that. I think Yukon sells a pressure switch that runs 85-105 or 110 psi. I’ve always just run the switch that came with my arb compressor.

Same. I did have to replace a switch once but think it was just a standard switch.

 

[Bart]

I know others that have used that pressure range with success. I think that's what came with my new ARB double pumper.

 

[UNSTUCK]

I’d find out what the actual spec is for that air locker (70 min. for arb) and run a pressure regulator to control the air going to it. Then you can adjust it to keep the pressure as low as possible and have engagement times you are happy with. This will prolong the life of the locker air parts and still let you run higher pressure for the rest of your air system.

 

[TJustin]

Thanks for the perspective with the pressure switch. @UNSTUCK, I like the idea of the regulator. Hadn't given that thought. I'll dig into that deeper.

I've now just about sold all the old drivetrain components, which is a relief. I had to sit on some of the parts longer than anticipated. It appears that TJ parts don't sell like they used to. My assumption it is due to the large number of 4 doors wheeling these days.

I've welded the upper link mounts to the axles, and have test fit the front axle under the Jeep. It looks like the factory lower mounts will be fine, but will need to redo the coil buckets and figure out how I'm going to mount the track bar. I'm thinking of running the track bar over to the passenger side knuckle. I still have a couple inches of outward adjustment in the front arms so I'm crossing my fingers that when I push the axle forward, it won't necessitate new links. For the rear, I am planning to start with a bare housing and redo it all. Not looking forward to cutting all the brackets off. Did I mention how much I dislike using angle grinders?





This last Saturday, I installed 2 tires on wheels so I can begin cycling the suspension in the next week or two. I added some Apex RPV's before the tire install.



Mocked the tire up alongside the Jeep. I'm digging the look.

 

[TJustin]

I am planning to do cutting brakes at the same time as the axle swap. I'm intrigued by the idea of a push/pull cutting brake, but not married to the idea. What are others using? Any considerations to keep in mind?

 

[kmboren]

I am planning to do cutting brakes at the same time as the axle swap. I'm intrigued by the idea of a push/pull cutting brake, but not married to the idea. What are others using? Any considerations to keep in mind?

View attachment 166234

What are your plans with it. We have push/pull (push for front and pull for rear) in the buggy but unless your going to compete I think you'd be fine with just rear cutting brakes with a separate handle for each rear. Unless your front locker is selectable front cutters are useless.

 

[TJustin]

Plan is to have rear only. The push pull would be utilized L/R, in my mind anyways.

Im running a Detroit in the front so, there have been no plans to do it to the front.

 

[kmboren]

Plan is to have rear only. The push pull would be utilized L/R, in my mind anyways.

Im running a Detroit in the front so, there have been no plans to do it to the front.

I would still utilize dual rears. Then if you want to lock both of them up at the same time you can.

 

[TJustin]

I would still utilize dual rears. Then if you want to lock both of them up at the same time you can.

Thanks. Any recommendations for brands to look at?

 

[RockChucker]

I have cnc cutting brakes that I think are gone/closed up shop now. I’m not sure what folks use these days. I have a separate handle for each rear wheel. Mine are 3/4” bore driving the huge brakes off the econoline rear axle in my jeep. I wish that they were 5/8” bore. Would make for more braking power. They are awesome though. Fun to use when mobbing around and another layer of options when in technical terrain.

 

[kmboren]

Thanks. Any recommendations for brands to look at?

Look up EMPI cutting brakes.

 

[TJustin]

I have cnc cutting brakes that I think are gone/closed up shop now. I’m not sure what folks use these days. I have a separate handle for each rear wheel. Mine are 3/4” bore driving the huge brakes off the econoline rear axle in my jeep. I wish that they were 5/8” bore. Would make for more braking power. They are awesome though. Fun to use when mobbing around and another layer of options when in technical terrain.

Where do you have yours mounted, and are they oriented where you push to activate them?

 

[RockChucker]

 

[TJustin]

I finished my frame chop just over a week ago. Having the shock towers already installed made it super easy to install the frame chop. A fellow wheeling friend helped me with his SolidWorks skills to draw up a mount that will allow me to re-use the gas tank skid with the stock location for the front crossmember, and the heightened rear cross member.




Last Saturday I installed the axle for kicks and giggles to check out the stance. I'm digging it.



On New Year's Day, I installed the THOR cowl intake. Going to hilines looked to make it hard to reuse the stock intake and I wasn't a fan of other options on the market. I don't really care about the potential of hp or tq gains, just that the install looks tidy and after a bit of wire management, I think it will be a success.





While I was cutting the gas tank up, I decided to do a logo delete. My Jeep suffers from schizophrenia because of all the logos. I was glad to clean up the back of the jeep some.

 

[AaronPaige]

Are you happy with your atlas I have a very similar tj on 40s and I can’t decided if a two speed 4.3 is enough or if I should just stretch it more and get the 4 speed

 

[TJustin]

Are you happy with your atlas I have a very similar tj on 40s and I can’t decided if a two speed 4.3 is enough or if I should just stretch it more and get the 4 speed

I've had 2. I had the 4.3 for a couple years, but now have the 5.0 2 speed. The 4.3 was fine for most things, but the 5.0 is noticeably better in the technical stuff. The 4.slow rarely stalls, even when standing on the brakes with the 5.0 low range.

 

[AaronPaige]

Thanks that’s exactly what I have been wondering, I want more control for the slow stuff but didn’t know if a single t case would ever be enough, I’ll try it

 

[N-Smooth]

That frame chop is one of the coolest mods for a TJ. Do you have a before pic from the rear? How many inches of clearance do you gain under the bumper? It looks rad

 

[TJustin]

Thanks.

This is the closest I have of the before, it’s with the bumper installed. I’ve gained 1.25” of clearance roughly.