Land Cruiser de-evolution

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
I decided to take care of some lingering issues with my Land Cruiser UZJ100, by making it less complex and refined—in the form of a solid front axle.

A little back story: a couple years back we acquired a ’93 80 series Land Cruiser, and fell in love with most aspects of it. The failings of that truck are the lack of power, and associated terrible fuel mileage. So I started looking at wrecked vehicles to be a drivetrain donor to do a V8 swap. While I searched, I realized how much work that swap would be (and the type of work I do not enjoy)…but I also came across a 2002 100 series, which already comes with a V8. :cool: It wouldn’t be as powerful as the GM V8’s I was originally looking at, but still a nice improvement over the I6.



So…I got the 100 for a good deal, I thought. The repairs (naturally) cost more than I was hoping, so my “good deal” at first wasn’t so good in the end, but still OK. I replaced the spindle, upper and lower control arms, fender, hood, headlight, bumper, valence, and had the A-pillar fixed along with the new paint and windshield. The frame was also straightened…as much as it could be. :p The body shop that was doing the work couldn’t get it quite straight, and bent their frame rack trying. :rofl:

So…with the frame not-quite-straight, my alignment was always just a bit off. There was some negative camber on the passenger-front, the caster was near zero and the wheelbase was shorter on that side. Some of that could have been remedied with some adjustable upper arms, but overall my wife and I were just not happy with how well it drove. I can fix it! :D

Here’s the “before”. 30mm rear spring spacer, torsion bars cranked to match, 18” 200 series wheels.

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You can spy my beloved 80 in the background here. 
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I started collecting parts a couple months before beginning any surgery on the Cruiser. I started with a couple of Super Duty Dana 60’s.
Ruined the first one.

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Ruined the second one.

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Clean brackets off both long sides. (the short side knuckles went to a friend who is building an axle)

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Cut to length, and bored the end out a bit on both sides.

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I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
Took the unit bearings apart to access the ABS tone ring hidden between the bearings. Ford uses a 60 tooth ring, Toyota uses 48 teeth. You can see the original on the right half, in this pic. I don’t have any pics of the new one, but trust me…it’s in there. I still don’t know if it will work as I hope it will, but we’ll find out once it drives again.



I welded closed some of the original stud holes, and had the flange machined with the new 5x150 bolt pattern using the original studs—since they are the same 14x1.5 as the Land Cruiser studs. Here is is with the wheel pilot machined to 110mm, but before the stud holes were machined.



Since then the outside diameter has been reduced, and the brake rotor pilot also reduced…both to fit some 14” Tundra rotors. With some custom brackets, the original 100 series calipers fit.






Rusty/crusty high pinion Dana 44 center section—I left 3” of axle tube sticking out each side. This is the only picture I have of this part. The D60 tubes that were machined earlier, will press onto the stubs of axle tube.

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Pile of goodies from @cruiseroutfit Cruiser Outfitters; 4.88 gears, install kit, and pinion flange for my 100’s rear axle, and D50 4.89’s and 35 spline ARB for the front. Not shown is the Jantz Engineering kit to make the D50 gears fit inside the D44 housing.



Along with lots of grinding inside the housing, the carrier needs to be machined also—I took .045” off the face of the ring gear flange. It was a little scary putting a brand-new ARB in the lathe, so I took my time and made sure I didn’t mess it up. :ugh: I also had to drill the ring gear bolt holes to 7/16”.



With the axle mostly worked out, it’s time to get going on the truck itself. Remove all suspension parts.



Remove all suspension and steering rack brackets, and buckle down for lots of grinding.



After it’s all smoothed out, plate the frame for both strength and beauty.

 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
Axle housing under the frame, located with custom-length flexible control links.


Also got some frame-side radius arm mounts started. These will need a bit more work and gusseting before they’re done.

After that I was able to get the caster set and the axle tubes welded solid. I made the radius arms also.

Welded up and bushings installed.[/URL]

The axle-side radius arm brackets are built to allow caster changes. Rather than using a cam bolt and a slotted hole, I did it this way—just a rectangular “washer” to keep it located between the tabs. I made 2 sizes for now—one with the hole centered, and one with the hole 1/8” offset as pictured. Each 1/8” change is approximately 1 degree of caster change, so these 2 will allow 3 positions of caster (by turning the pictured ones upside down)—and if I need to adjust further, I can make new washers with the holes wherever I need.

You can see in this pic why I put that bend on the frame end of the arms, to clear the frame on full compression.

Sorry for the dark pic…but you can see the axle welded up, as well as the axle-side coil spring mounts on the knuckles.

And that brings us to where it sits now. Next step is to finalize the axle’s location for wheelbase, and get the spring and shock mounts on. The upper spring bucket is just sitting there for now, until I can get back to it in a few days. I’m using factory 80 series upper coil guides and bumpstops.

More to come later…..
 

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Vehicular limbo
Ok, so why start with the D60 over, say, a custom Diamond or Ruffstuff? Other than because you can, I mean. After buying two complete 60s I can't think you're much money ahead?
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
Ok, so why start with the D60 over, say, a custom Diamond or Ruffstuff? Other than because you can, I mean. After buying two complete 60s I can't think you're much money ahead?

In the end, I only bought one D60, the other one's parts got sold. I'm into that donor axle $300. I can't get a bare fabbed housing for anywhere near that, and then I'd still need to add whatever knuckles/wheel hubs or unit bearings, brakes, third member, etc.
 
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N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member
Location
UT
Not to mention the awesomeness of having a d44/d50/d60/Toyota hybrid axle lol.
Ryan told me about your project this weekend but it’s good to see it on here.
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
Today I finished up the frame-side radius arm mounts.



Installed the knuckles, unit bearings, and tie rod. I'm going to do the drag-link-attached-to-tie-rod "inverted T" steering...which I don't like as much as other options, but it is simple, works decently well, and keeps everything out of the frame.



Made some spacers to go between the axle and frame, and set the thing down on its wheels to measure the wheelbase more accurately. The height shown is about 1.5" higher in front than it was in the "before" pics. Actual ride height will probably end up a tiny bit taller. Wheelbase in the pic is 113.5", which is 1.25" longer than factory. (in my case, I measured 112.625 on the driver side, and 111.875 on the passenger) I think I'll pull the axle back .5"...so that should be about .75" forward from factory. Anyone have any input on that dimension? I can still change it easily, since I haven't welded the upper coil mounts on yet.

And lastly, here's a pic showing the pinion/driveshaft angle. This is the factory front shaft, which is a bit short. I have a CV shaft that will be going on there eventually.

 
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