Marc Bryson lazy "build" -JT Gladiator Rubicon

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
We'll... It was a lot of work but it's finally "done". 2021

20220909_200011.jpgIMG_20220909_180839_01.jpg

The pen to sign for it was EXTREMELY heavy. Justifying this to myself, the 392 Wrangler was still $20-30k more than this.



Suspected lift?
G350RPBLTD – 3.5 in. Dual Rate Long Travel Suspension Lift Kit Gladiator JT Diesel



Maybe these are the shocks?
 
Last edited:

Greg

Make RME Rockcrawling Again!
Admin
Tough build, glad you were able to keep motivated thru the hard times! 😄

Let's hear some details! Lift, shocks, tires, gearing...
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
Had to shift into 4 low and rear locker at the Dairy Queen.

-deezel 3.0L
-Superlift springs and lower control arms
-Rubicon Express Falcon wanna be shocks
-37" Mickey Thompson MTZ
-I'm sure this is the stock gearing at 3.73(?)16627769799242058890571569191437.jpg

I had a hell of a time deciding between the Ford or Chevy, er 3.6 vs deezel. Each has their benefits and drawbacks. Ultimately this rig is "done" and I'm a lazy bastard. Hope I'm not buddies with my service writer
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
For a place to mount antennas and maybe a couple of those cool Milwaukee type boxes, I'm wanting something like this? Maybe?

It would have to work around the factory tonneau cover. Those are a must for me for some reason


1662814354025.png

1662814390465.png

I think I have some 1" tube somewhere to do a stealthy version of one of those. Anyone have those smaller dies for their bender and wants to make a couple bucks?


Let me know what you think of the Mickey's.


They are a little "luggy" in that you can feel the tread as the tire rotates. I expect them to be VERY loud as they wear down? I will be checking size vs my BFG 39 sometime later today.
 
Last edited:

Greg

Make RME Rockcrawling Again!
Admin
Had to shift into 4 low and rear locker at the Dairy Queen.

With just over 20k miles on mine, it can still be tight shifting into low range, but its much better than when it was new. Here's what I do...

Rolling at 2-3 mph, put transmission in neutral. Firmly shift into low range with a little force. Make sure shift lever drops all the way back, a partial shift can happen and really cause damage. Place transmission back in gear.

If you're trying to shift into low range with the trans in gear or while stopped, it'll fight you.

Far as wheelin in 4 low, I usually manually shift the transmission, usually in 1-4th gears. Leaving it in Drive seems to make the transmission hunt and I don’t like it.

Hope that helps!
 

Pike2350

Registered User
Location
Salt Lake City
I am jealous. I sold my Rodeo a few weeks ago and have been eyeballing JT's pretty heavy. I have leaned towards the Mohave for some of the features there that can't be duplicated easily (beefed up frame mostly) but then I have also been intrigued in the 3.0(not available in Mohave trim) so it is still up in the air.

The price between used and new is crazy close as you said in your other thread. I am doing what you did and looking for something already mildly built. For now I will drool over the RME's growing stable of JT's.

Good luck and keep us posted on mileage
 

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
With just over 20k miles on mine, it can still be tight shifting into low range, but its much better than when it was new. Here's what I do...

Rolling at 2-3 mph, put transmission in neutral. Firmly shift into low range with a little force. Make sure shift lever drops all the way back, a partial shift can happen and really cause damage. Place transmission back in gear.

If you're trying to shift into low range with the trans in gear or while stopped, it'll fight you
That's exactly the method I use. At 45k miles, mine is starting to feel the way I expect it should
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
So I had no idea how much I "needed" a tonneau cover. Found one on KSL for $200. 16628466800633746933790852200600.jpg

Need to trim the plastic.

16628467583826496711923700515986.jpg

Grabbed some metric lock nuts and some flat washers to match the factory hardware. Factory install uses a nutsert here.16628468341556495613130450641464.jpg
I had to recruit someone with smaller hands to start the metric nuts.

16628470640896672336897805772240.jpg
Had to find an assistant with small hands16628480527573310248430973222524.jpg


A little trimming of the plastic with a razor knife. Brackets installed (idiot proofed but as always, I tried to be a stellar idiot)
16628516853308089433429504891227.jpg

16628519350121463431911259968942.jpg
 

Greg

Make RME Rockcrawling Again!
Admin
So I had no idea how much I "needed" a tonneau cover. Found one on KSL for $200. View attachment 152246

Need to trim the plastic.

View attachment 152247

Grabbed some metric lock nuts and some flat washers to match the factory hardware. Factory install uses a nutsert here.View attachment 152248
I had to recruit someone with smaller hands to start the metric nuts.

View attachment 152249
Had to find an assistant with small handsView attachment 152250


A little trimming of the plastic with a razor knife. Brackets installed (idiot proofed but as always, I tried to be a stellar idiot)
View attachment 152252

View attachment 152253

I have the same one, love it.
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
I really want to do a "chase rack" for storage, comm antenna mounts, some KC lights, ARB Compressor, a couple Milwaukee storage boxes. I also REALLY want to keep the factory tonneau cover as well.

Finding a place to start building is the challenge? FB_IMG_1662942087323.jpg

I'm not familiar with that logo.

IMG_20220911_175213.jpgIMG_20220911_175134.jpgIMG_20220911_175306.jpg


 
Last edited:
Top