Midget build?

[1969honda]

So while waiting for Auto Owner's Insurance to figure things out on the TJ, and the machine shop to get my cummins 6.7 done, I got an itch to work on something not GM/family car related. I know, it's a problem, especially since the power company keeps me more than busy fixing F@#ds and Intertrashionals 4-5 days a week. Anyways, a 1975 MG Midget followed me home on Father's Day. I told my wife it would be a fun, fairly simple, and fast build she could drive to and from Logan during the warmer months. It has a newer top, full carpet kit and seats installed, no major rust and was a daily driver before the PO pulled the drivetrain. Body seems really straight as well, paint in a few spots is cracked, but again, nothing soft or filled with body filler that I have found yet.


It previously had a nissan CA18DET running somewhere close to 300hp from what the seller told me. He pulled the drive train for his 200sx drift car after driving it for a couple months and supposedly installing all new brakes. The PO didn't care for practicality and cut out the front crossmember, followed by moving the steering rack forward almost 6" and down 3". I'm sure it handled like crap but was a real rocket ship, given stock it only had 50-60hp?

Once I got it home I began researching drivetrain options that didn't involve the anemic triumph 1500, but were "simple", affordable and most importantly small. I though about suzuki 1.0 and 1.3l options (owned a 1l metro that was quite fun as a commuter), honda K2x, Miate 1.6/1.8 and of course rotary stuff. Then @jeepndaveo mentioned one of his boys had an older Datsun 620 with a 4 cylinder that might fit. So, I began looking on the interwebs and decided it "might" fit, and it was a really good deal for an engine and transmission.



It just didn't feel exactly right though, and it was reallytall with the overhead camshaft, almost like stacking two heads on top of each other tall. It sort of fit, but I just wasn't feeling it. So, I gave in, and bought a 2017 Chevy Cruze 1.4L turbo Ecotec LE2 and started looking for a compatible Isuzu 2.2l 2wd T5 that is supposed to bolt right up, like any sensible person would.



Currently I have a Scirroco style radiator with electric fans, '99 VW 1.8t Jetta intercooler, '17 Cruze starter and alternator all in transit. I've got to call two different wrecking yards in Utah tomorrow about the necessary BW T5 transmission to see if it is actually on hand and get an accurate price. The ECM showed up today, I'm hoping to get a MT harness for a 2017 Cruze ordered tomorrow and then continue on.

 

[1969honda]

Well, Santa came in July today while I was at work.



Intercooler ala 1998 Jetta 1.8t, Sirocco style radiator with two electric fans (one is on the white box still), MAF, MAF pipe w/ mount, and an ebay low mileage starter. There supposed to be an alternator here at home my oldest boy picked up as well.

A 1999 Isuzu Amigo 2wd BW T-5 is on its way from back east. I also have a new GM wiring harness for a 2017 manual Chevy Cruze and a floor mount Cadillac ATS throttle pedal. The ECM arrived a few days ago as well.

Currently I'm debating clutch setup options. I might be able to use an 8 bolt LSJ/LNF single mass flywheel, LSJ/LNF pressure plate and Amigo 9.5" friction disc. I'm still researching if the 8 bolt crank pattern is the same or not. the other unknown is if a 135 tooth LSJ/LNF flywheel will work on the LE2 that only has a 130 tooth flywheel. My guess is the starter pinion is spaced further out from the crank centerline, but still has the same 2 mounting hole spacing. I don't see SAAB/GM engineers changing a fairly universal ecotec block casting for 5 more teeth that could be accommodated with a "simple" spacing change.

Another clutch option would be a 7.25" blank button flywheel drilled accordingly to fit the crank. I could then easily run single or twin organic 7.25" discs with a lighter rated pressure plate set. I'm not entirely thrilled with the idea of a harsh on/off that twin plate 7.25" clutches are known for, especially for street driving. Most people however, I think, are giving feedback on setups with way more power and torque than this little 1.4 will be putting out.

Either way once the transmission gets here I can start finalizing engine and transmission mount locations. Getting those sorted will allow for a more accurate placement of the radiator w/fans, intercooler, coolant hoses and new front cross member layout.

 

[The_Lobbster]

Hope the T5 works out well! I haven’t looked into that, but I did research an ecotec into a samurai swap, and the Pontiac Solstice AR5 is another RWD 5 speed option. Unless the bellhousing is different between the 1.4 and 2.0.

Just thought I’d throw that out there if for some reason it doesn’t work.

 

[1969honda]

I would love to run the AR5, its a really stout transmission very very similar to the R154, but it is a different bellhousing bolt pattern. The starter is on the driver's side and this particular one from the 1998-2000 Rodeo/Amigo or Honda Passport is on the passenger side. I think that is one of the big early vs late Eecotec differences.

AR5

 

[ID Bronco]

Midgets................................you gotta hand it to them.

Cool build

 

[1969honda]

 

[NYCEGUY01]

Cool build. Ive run a couple Ecotecs in off road stuff but always thought it would be cool to build something like this with a modern 4cyl.

I went to the Plain city car show yesterday and I only took a couple pics of 1 car.
Cool old Vega with an Ecotec/AR5 swap.

 

[1969honda]

That is a pretty sweet little ride! Ecotecs seem to be almost as popular as LS swaps from what I'm finding out. Unfortunately the DI motors are not as popular, so some things are all new territory.

The turbo outlet and throttle body on this little 1.4l LE2 have the spring lock connectors for instance. The few I've found swapped, guys are TIG welding traditional v bands on or machining them to accept a regular clamp. Looking at factory hose pictures, I think I can just cut and splice the spring lock ends on with some silicone couplers though.




For the turbo down pipe the only clamp that apparently fits is a GM specific one that uses a little 3 lobe coned steel gasket. A 3.25" v-band loosely fits the outlet ID, but the clamp ring is almost an 1/8" bigger OD on the turbo side.





I started drawing up a custom V band half to match factory turbo side last night. If I go that route I can get my BIL to turn one up on his lathe and use the factory GM clamp. I might also see if I can bribe @jpndave to TIG a standard V band on though for future ease of maintenance.

 

[1969honda]

I found a floor mount accelerator pedal option I think I mentioned earlier. It is from a 2013-018 Cadillac ATS. It is much more compact than the larger SUV/truck pedals I see most people using. A little CAD work has me thinking a simple bolt in sheet metal mount, with some hidden speed holes, will get it secured nicely.

 

[1969honda]

Transmission showed up, finally, along with a wiring harness and a few other bits.


Got it bolted up, mocked up in the car for a breif moment and pulled back out.



It looks like the shifter will land really close to the factory position. Speedometer sensor will have to be deleted though. Speedhut gauges might be the answer to that issue.

 

[The_Lobbster]

I’m amazed that’s a direct bolt up.

I wonder who figured that out and how? You can have a million different engines and trans combos, and they all look the same at first glance until you actually look closely or try to test fit them.

Will you be running the original rear diff, or do you have plans to modify/replace that?

 

[1969honda]

I found the trans info on an MGexperience thread one day while looking for engines that would fit. All of the bolts except a couple lower ones into the oil pan lined right up.



The locating dowels lined up perfect. There area (4) m10x55mm bolts not seen in the pictures going onto the block and another (2) m12×40mm from the engine side.

Rear will stay stock as long as it can handle the torque. If it goes out, I think I'll try to shorten up an 8.8, the early Fox body mustangs ran a 4x4.25 pattern. That might work with my current wheels if I can redrill the rotors to 4x4. It would also upgrade me to disc rear brakes and a LSD.

 

[jpndave]

I need to get out there and see that little beast! Is Polly ready to drive that? It's going to be a pretty big shift from the Escalade!

 

[1969honda]

She's pretty excited. You should come grab some of this LS stuff one day and check it out.

 

[1969honda]

When fitting the engine the other day I wasn't really happy with how close the transmission body was to the tunnel. I was also not happy with how the PO destroyed the top of the tunnel to accommodate a shifter position way to far to the rear. So I peeled the glued down carpet and pad back to see what could be changed.

MG for some reason stepped the sides of the tunnel in from the foot boxes towards the center of the car. Bringing the tunnel opening out even with the sides of the foot boxes and back a little should net some clearance and have little to no impact on interior space. This will also allow for a little more adjustment in setting the drive train behind the steering rack.



I bought a full sheet of 18 gauge steel from Ipaco on Saturday and started brainstorming plans for reworking the tunnel. I decided on 18 gage because this car really doesn't have a traditional frame, and the PO had cut out two of the cross members that need to be recreated while in welding things up. I'm hoping with a little bead rolling and some dimple die action everything will be nice and stiff.

Last night I picked up some poster board and paper tape on the way home from work. Tonight I started using my mom existent CAD skills to play things out.



So far I've left about a 3/4" flange along all of the edges touching the chassis to allow for plug welding in the tunnel. I still need to make a template to tie into the tunnel on the rear portion and a top plate for the shifter boot to come thru.

Clecos arrived in 1/8" and 3/16" variety today and I picked up a can of UPOL #2 zinc weld thru primer to try. SEM seam sealer will get applied inside and out once evening is welded up as well. I haven't decided if I'm going to use flushed dzus fasteners or tabbed weld nuts to secure the top on the transmission tunnel yet. I have a dzus dimple die I've been wanting to try out, so we'll see. @jpndave may also have enough lizard skin to put a coat on things before getting painted and payed with Gravitex undercoating to cut down the road and drivetrain noise. If u can fit it in also going to line the insured if the tunnel with some dimpled and insulated heat sheilding.

Next up though is to cut out the old tunnel sheet metal and fit the engine and trans in one more time. Then I'll double check console profile, shifter placement and the overall look of things. I may contour the top a little so it's not as boxy, we'll see. I'm hoping to get at least one cross members patterned out and a simple throttle pedal mount bent up as well.

 

[RustEoldtrux]

Just today I saw a post about someone using an oil pan to modify a transmission tunnel. That might make a better replacement than sheet metal.

 

[1969honda]

Oil pans do have nice rounded aesthetic edges. Thanks for the suggestion, now I'm gonna go down that rabbit hole instead of sleeping. Lol

 

[jpndave]

Just today I saw a post about someone using an oil pan to modify a transmission tunnel. That might make a better replacement than sheet metal.

I've seen wheel barrows used too. @1969honda I think we're better off using the sheet metal and brake, especially where the space is so tight. Looking forward to to trying out the bead roller, dimple dies and clecos to see how it goes...

 

[1969honda]

No turning back now....




A little more trimming in the tunnel and get the sheet metal bent up for the new one. I also bought some clecos in 1/8 and 3/16 to help hold everything in place when it gets welded up.

The stock radio console slides in above the template with just a little wiggle room. Hopefully it will all still look decent when it gets sealed up and carpet goes back in.

After the tunnel is done I'll work on a new front frame cross member, tunnel cross member and drivetrain mounts. Front looks like I can just re-fab the factory profile. Transmission crossmember will have to get a little creative, the T-5 mount sits about 8" further back than the stock 4 speed did.

 

[JeeperG]

My memory is fuzzy but my uncle stuck a 440 in one of these back in the 80s I think, took that out and put a 360 in instead? This was when he was Ogden high schools autobody/autoshop teacher, Last I recall seeing it was at the high school in the 90s, I remember the rear end seemed like it was all third member and big tires. It's still sitting somewhere, I want to say Milford? I'll have to ask around about whatever happened to it.

Good luck on yours.