Mixing Leafs, Coils and Swaybars

[Greg]

Just a tangent on another Thread-

I want to toss TJ Coils in the rear of my Toyota. After reading the posts about the Currie Anti-Rock bars and how they affect the Wrangler's offroad performance, I was curious if my Rig would benefit or be hampered by a dedicated Swaybar in the rear.

So? Yeah or Nay? And why?

 

[Herzog]

I think with the leafs up front, the rear coils wouldn't need any kind of stabilization. It seems that the front leafs would keep the rig plenty ballanced. Just like my Cherokee with the leafs in the rear, I can sidehill very comfortably because I feel like my rear leafs keep my rig balanced.

I have no experience with these other types of swaybars, but I get the logic behind them.

If you were running coils on all four corners, then I would tell you to probably look into these swaybar setups.

 

[Greg]

Bingo! I thought of the XJ and how it was setup, thinking my truck w/ coils in the rear would be more or less similar.

Hopefully the 2 diffrent types of springs will equal out the flex, without one end taking all the Twist.

 

[ewander]

My bro-in-law runs his cherokee with coils all around, and no sway bars. The control arms are set up in a way that it is very stable on side hills, more stable than my YJ...even after I lowered it, and it has 10" of lift on it and 35's. Let me see if I can find a picture of it....

Their web site is under construction...

 

[Herzog]

Originally posted by ewander
My bro-in-law runs his cherokee with coils all around, and no sway bars. The control arms are set up in a way that it is very stable on side hills, more stable than my YJ...even after I lowered it, and it has 10" of lift on it and 35's. Let me see if I can find a picture of it....

Their web site is under construction...

Matt's rig is really sweet. I haven't had a chance to see it in action yet.

 

[Greg]

How are the Arms setup? Please explain! Stability is a big concern of mine.

 

[RockMonkey]

With leafs up front and coils in the rear you will be able to sidehill just fine, but your rear will end up doing all the flexing. My front suspension is plenty flexy, but it rarely gets twisted up because my rear suspension is so floppy. I will be adding a swaybar to the rear to make the suspension more balanced (although it is waaaaay down on the list).

 

[I Lean]

I'll second what Braden said. (he needs one more than he thinks he does )

Also, you can get set up with a full-time swaybar for quite a bit cheaper than the Currie package.

 

[Greg]

Originally posted by I Lean
I'll second what Braden said. (he needs one more than he thinks he does )

Also, you can get set up with a full-time swaybar for quite a bit cheaper than the Currie package.

Really? What setup and how much?

I was hoping 44044's with a Leaf pulled, would match Coils in the Rear. I have a set of TJ TeraFlex coils I got from Brandon, around 210-215 Lbs. I've heard the 44044's are way soft, but I haven't seen a Spring Rate.

I'm kinda going with a 'Toss it together and see how well it does' approach.

 

[Hickey]

Are you going 4 or three link?

 

[Greg]

2 Link.



Radius arms and a Track Bar.

 

[Hickey]

ford style arms or gregstyle? Describe them.

 

[Greg]

GregStyle-

The Lower link would be longer, ending at nearly the Top of the Arm.

 

[Hickey]

so, is it done yet? what's taking so long? btw, there is another bushing you can use that is the same size only not as wide, for gm's it's cheaper too, like 7.95 from 4wheel.

 

[Greg]

Whats taking so long?-

I prefer to tackle one project at a time. And, I've kinda been taking a break from working on the Rig, due to frustration. It was getting to the point where selling it was a option! I think you can understand that, eh?

Getting it running is first. I'm currently waiting for a Motor coming from Cali, and I have a Cyl Head waiting on Machine Work.

I don't have a problem with YJ Bushings, I think the RockLogic boys sell them with a Metal Sleeve for about $7.

 

[Hickey]

what motor did you finally go with?

 

[Greg]

Supra 6 cyl, Non-Turbo.

 

[rustybronco]

2 links are awesome, and the gregstyle design is strong, but won't work if both arms are built like that. One arm has to be wristed. The axle has to twist. I just wristed the one arm on the front of my bronco and now there's no limit to my articulation. So build the one arm with two attaching points on the axle but the other arm with just one attaching point. The jonny joints at the frame are definately the way to go. Here's a link to Odyssey Offroad's custom radius arm for broncos. It's the basic idea but yours would be a little different to attach it to the axle instead of the "C" bushing. Most guys drill another hole on the pivoting end and put a "hitch pin" through it to make it a solid arm while street driving. That's how I built mine.
http://www.odysseyoffroad.com/wristedradiusarm.jpg

 

[Herzog]

I would say not to wrist them. I run the same basic concept in the front of my rig, just inverted. And my uppers are a lot longer. Anyways, I think as long as you have enough deflection in the bushings, you will get the flex you desire, and the stability without the "wrist."

Also, where the lower links attach to the upper main link, I would put a bushing in there also. This will help out for flex (think bushing deflection) and dampen the torque from the twisting axle (wrap).

Definately truss the housing with a two link, so you don't end up with a twisted housing after a while.

 

[Hickey]

Yeah I agree with Herzog, don't wrist it, if you want, you can always do it later. Besides, broncos don't use jjoints.