Going from the meter aka main panel to a panel in the garage. The electrician that I’m NOT using, the high quote one came and put a mule tape in while I was in a movie yesterday. It was a whole thing with some fun awkwardness… but now I know the official in-conduit measurement is 86’
Nate’s longterm tiny shop build
- Thread starter N-Smooth
- Start date
We determined that boxes would be a great first step for me to do by myself. So after building a stupid privacy fence for the wife I put in a billion boxes. Ok so 27 of them but it felt like a billion.
I also found out that doing Ethernet cable in the same conduit as the high voltage stuff is against code… so I have to decide if I want to pull a fast one on the inspector and hide it or if I just deal with wifi. I’m torn.
I also found out that doing Ethernet cable in the same conduit as the high voltage stuff is against code… so I have to decide if I want to pull a fast one on the inspector and hide it or if I just deal with wifi. I’m torn.
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
Pull the Ethernet through after the inspection.
Running ethernet next to high voltage will also cause interference in the cat5/6 so the performance might suck worse than wifi anyways.
Pull fiber instead. It's not that much more difficult, you just need some converters at each end.
What herzog said, but I'd buy 1/2" conduit and run two lines of CAT6. If you're going to run one you might as well run two. I'd put that 1/2" conduit in the same trench though and start and stop at the same spot.
Ask @moab_cj5 what he thinks of his wifi in the shop. Based on the picks you've shared Dave shop is further from the house, but still. Cable over wifi every day.
Ask @moab_cj5 what he thinks of his wifi in the shop. Based on the picks you've shared Dave shop is further from the house, but still. Cable over wifi every day.
- Location
- The Village of Kay
I did internet over power with Netgear adapters and a router in my shop. It works well enough for me. You have to have the house and the shop on the same meter for it to work I think.
This is what I use inside my house and out to the shop.
This is what I use inside my house and out to the shop.
- Location
- Never Far From Nowhere
If you have the ability to run internet from the house to the shop, do it right the first time. As mentioned, it's a bad idea to run high voltage and copper Ethernet (Cat5/6) in the same conduit. That'll kill your network performance. Running fiber will "future proof" yourself somewhat and will get you the highest performance for the longest period.
Either way, I'd put a second conduit to run the networking through.
Either way, I'd put a second conduit to run the networking through.
Sparky said that would suck with 4 other wires already in the conduit. We could try but yeah.
I’ve read so many mixed reviews about whether or not that is true. Plenty of people say it’s a myth. I don’t know, I’m dumb. The fiber thing intrigues me. I wonder if that’s allowed in code…Running ethernet next to high voltage will also cause interference in the cat5/6 so the performance might suck worse than wifi anyways.
Pull fiber instead. It's not that much more difficult, you just need some converters at each end.
2” conduit is already under concrete for the whole run. The Ethernet cable idea was an afterthought and a suggestion from my GFiber installer. The idea is to run it out there and hardwire another mesh extender.
I’ve never heard of that and will check it out. Interesting
See above comment on the conduit and the permanence of that situation. If I would’ve thought about it beforehand I would’ve definitely run another conduit.
If you decide to do it, at least go with shielded cat6 and use shielded/grounded connectors at both ends. That would be my least recommendation. I mean, worst case if it doesn't work very well, you can always use that ethernet cable to pull fiber through in the future
I have been tinkering. I got (2) metal boxes in for welder plugs and (1) for a future compressor. I got the fan box mounted and framed around it a little to make the Sheetrock easier with the vaulted ceiling. I also got the panel in place to start messing with getting the conduit inside. I have more reading to do on what size LB I need to use to get the wire in.
I had a bit of a debacle this week with the wire. I was told to get 2-2-2-4 Al SER for the run from the house to the shop. The sparky missed the part where it was buried conduit and that SER is not underground rated, even in conduit. I found that out AFTER I spent $172 on the wire that I can’t return. Coool. I’m not mad, it was an honest mistake and he feels bad. Plus that amount of money will be recovered easily with his help, compared to the ridiculous estimate I got from the other guys. Also, once I found out the correct wire I got a killer deal on it from a guy Ryan is homies with and it’ll get here tomorrow. I’m getting closer to pulling wire and getting down to the fun-ish stuff.
I had a bit of a debacle this week with the wire. I was told to get 2-2-2-4 Al SER for the run from the house to the shop. The sparky missed the part where it was buried conduit and that SER is not underground rated, even in conduit. I found that out AFTER I spent $172 on the wire that I can’t return. Coool. I’m not mad, it was an honest mistake and he feels bad. Plus that amount of money will be recovered easily with his help, compared to the ridiculous estimate I got from the other guys. Also, once I found out the correct wire I got a killer deal on it from a guy Ryan is homies with and it’ll get here tomorrow. I’m getting closer to pulling wire and getting down to the fun-ish stuff.
I hate air compressors and don’t want one at all. I have a pancake compressor now and hardly ever use it. I just want to plan for the future- just in case.
- Location
- Sandy, Ut
I'm with Brian, set it up for an exterior compressor within your easement gap. I set mine up that way but need to get around to moving it.
I use primarily battery powered tools however there are times when the air compressor is 110% worth the hassle, airing up big tires, using the blower to clean and orbital sanders among others.
I use primarily battery powered tools however there are times when the air compressor is 110% worth the hassle, airing up big tires, using the blower to clean and orbital sanders among others.
- Location
- Never Far From Nowhere
I really need to move my compressor out of the garage and into something like this. Like N-Swift I don't really use it that much, but when I do its annoyingly loud.
I think you should lead the pager revival.
I've added a "muffler" to the air intake on my compressor and it is much easier on the ears. I mean, it's still annoying but it lowered out that ear bleeding higher pitch tapping noise. Now I just get mad when I have to pause a podcast because it kicks on... but like others I use battery tools way more often now. The press brake, mini plasma table and airing up tires is the only use it really gets.
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
When Milwaukee comes out with a M18 tube bender and plasma cutter, I’ll dump my compressor.
If I ever step into the 21st century and get a plasma or air over hydro for my bender is when I’ll want a compressor. That’s why I will have the wiring available for it.
My buddy said “maybe you’ll want it when you get into woodworking” and I was like HOW DARE YOU?!?!
My buddy said “maybe you’ll want it when you get into woodworking” and I was like HOW DARE YOU?!?!
Extremely suspect. I'd keep an eye on that one.
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
I thought that might be coming from his lovely bride?