Nate’s longterm tiny shop build

[gijohn40]

I was a electrician for awhile... I to would recommend stubbing the conduit up in the foundation to keep it all in the wall. Use a 100amp panel. Electrical outlets need to be every 6 feet and I would go with 20amp outlets instead of the 15amp ones. This will give you better use of the outlet for heavier tools. Then run 3- 50amp outlets for your welder/compressor (one on each wall) and maybe 2 on the wall that your rv pad will be on.
I would suggest placing the panel right next to your man door. This way if there is a fire in the shop you can hit the main breaker on your way out the door instead of having to run to the back of the shop.

I would be glad to come help wire when your ready. Oh yeah I have some mule tape (heavy 3/4inch string) that helps with pulling wire thru conduit I can bring you. Its rated at 2500lb

 

[N-Smooth]

I really appreciate the advice guys, you’re awesome!

 

[N-Smooth]

They said 4-6 weeks and then wanted to come out a week later. I just submitted the permit a few days ago and the city said up to 10 business days for approval so I’m freaking out a little bit. Especially because I just found out from a neighbor that they need to do a footings inspection where they check the forms. The permit application didn’t say dick about that so that’s exciting. So now I have to try and pause the contractor once he gets the forms in and get the city out as quickly as possible. That is if my permit is even done yet. Yay for arbitrary rules put in place by our overlords in white trucks.

 

[N-Smooth]

 

[Mouse]

Just wait until the inspector makes up random rules to follow. When we started electrical in my shop, I made sure to have the inspector come our before the concrete pour to inspect the ground rods. She told me that she wanted to see them after the pour, meaning they couldn't be poured over. I decided not to fight with her and got some 3" PVC to allow access to the dirt on top of the rods. Then on the remaining re-inspections no word or request to look at them again.

 

[N-Smooth]

Just wait until the inspector makes up random rules to follow. When we started electrical in my shop, I made sure to have the inspector come our before the concrete pour to inspect the ground rods. She told me that she wanted to see them after the pour, meaning they couldn't be poured over. I decided not to fight with her and got some 3" PVC to allow access to the dirt on top of the rods. Then on the remaining re-inspections no word or request to look at them again.

I can’t wait lol I know there will be plenty of this.

 

[N-Smooth]

 

[nnnnnate]

I'm super jealous. That's going to be awesome.

 

[N-Smooth]

I'm super jealous. That's going to be awesome.

Yeah… one day 🤣

I finally got the permits today so that’s good. I guess the city decided I’ve jumped through enough hoops for the time being. I’m hoping to get the forms guy here on Monday and then pour on Tuesday but we’ll see

 

[N-Smooth]

The “forms guy’s” first phase of work is complete. The fact that the city had to come out and inspect this kinda blows my mind but at the same time it’s par for the course. Pouring the footings on Monday and he’ll jam the vertical rebar pieces in place. Then the city will inspect that lol 🤡

 

[N-Smooth]

Changed the title of the thread too cause I’m extra

 

[STAG]

On the other side of that fence here; I’d absolutely want an inspector to come out and take a look before/after any structural bearing work. Especially in the eyes of a homeowner who may not know their head from their butt when it comes to this stuff. (Not you, but others) because you never know when a contractor is going to be a smooth talker and telling the customer something is the right way, when it’s something that cuts serious industry corners.

Nothing worse than paying big money, trusting someone, getting a taillight warranty and then having your expensive project have issues much sooner than it should.

 

[N-Smooth]

On the other side of that fence here; I’d absolutely want an inspector to come out and take a look before/after any structural bearing work. Especially in the eyes of a homeowner who may not know their head from their butt when it comes to this stuff. (Not you, but others) because you never know when a contractor is going to be a smooth talker and telling the customer something is the right way, when it’s something that cuts serious industry corners.

Nothing worse than paying big money, trusting someone, getting a taillight warranty and then having your expensive project have issues much sooner than it should.

I agree and it’s not like I’m super knowledgeable on the subject but I think the city could do a lot of this work by FaceTime or zoom call. I guess this isn’t the worst use of my tax dollars though either…

 

[STAG]

Curious, how detailed is the plan set you’re working off of? I’m assuming it’s something an engineer put together?

 

[N-Smooth]

Curious, how detailed is the plan set you’re working off of? I’m assuming it’s something an engineer put together?

I don’t have the building plans yet. Right now I just want the footings, foundation and slab done. The contractor is just working off of the IRC requirements for dimensions, rebar size and quantity etc for this part.

I’d love to know what you think about acquiring plans for the building. I feel like engineered plans are going to cost me thousands…?

 

[STAG]

I don’t have the building plans yet. Right now I just want the footings, foundation and slab done. The contractor is just working off of the IRC requirements for dimensions, rebar size and quantity etc for this part.

I’d love to know what you think about acquiring plans for the building. I feel like engineered plans are going to cost me thousands…?

When I had my shop drawn up which was larger than this, it was just the engineer’s minimum which was $1,000.

Part of the reason I went with engineered plans is the city wanted a snow-load rating for the roof, and I had no idea how to calculate that. And some other things. In the end I was happy with that $1k expense.

 

[N-Smooth]

When I had my shop drawn up which was larger than this, it was just the engineer’s minimum which was $1,000.

Part of the reason I went with engineered plans is the city wanted a snow-load rating for the roof, and I had no idea how to calculate that. And some other things. In the end I was happy with that $1k expense.

Oh yeah a grand is not bad in the grand scheme of what is sure to be an exorbitantly expensive project. I’ll go that route too.

 

[1969honda]

I'm in the same camp as @STAG on enginered plans. I had an Ag Buildings and Structures class in college. That class covered everything, nail size clamp loads, panel sheer strength, snow loads, concert slump, etc. Hardest final I remember taking was in that class. Professor handed out a sheet of paper with 10 questions, you had to do at least three and it took the entire finals week to finish.

The questions went something like this: You need to build a new barn in a zone one climate area, 30' x 40' feet, 18'' eve height and overall ridge cap height of 20', for your new chicken herd expansion. What concrete mix, rebar diameter and spacing are you going to use for the footings, code says you need a 3', above grade concrete stub wall for vertical exterior walls over 12'. How many trusses, sheets of plywood, and squares of shingles will you need if using a 2' c to c spacing. Don't forget to include the calculations on proper ventilation for 1500 animal units, vent sizes required and if a fan is needed. And on and on.

Every little step laid the foundation for the next step as you went thru the problem. We all had constant anxiety of getting one area wrong and throwing off the whole problem three steps later. Point being there is so much to remember and be aware of for what dreams like a simple task. Inspectors are there to remember and reference those standards, ensuring the building is safe and meets the overall design intent.

i still have that book and reference it whenever I take on a building project. I think it was one of the cheapest text books I ever bought. I turn wrenches and jump out of airplanes for a living now, I'm not a construction guru by anymeans. It's nice to have a basic understanding of what to look for, and how important even the correct nail is though when paying someone else to build stuff.

 

[N-Smooth]

I'm in the same camp as @STAG on enginered plans. I had an Ag Buildings and Structures class in college. That class covered everything, nail size clamp loads, panel sheer strength, snow loads, concert slump, etc. Hardest final I remember taking was in that class. Professor handed out a sheet of paper with 10 questions, you had to do at least three and it took the entire finals week to finish.

The questions went something like this: You need to build a new barn in a zone one climate area, 30' x 40' feet, 18'' eve height and overall ridge cap height of 20', for your new chicken herd expansion. What concrete mix, rebar diameter and spacing are you going to use for the footings, code says you need a 3', above grade concrete stub wall for vertical exterior walls over 12'. How many trusses, sheets of plywood, and squares of shingles will you need if using a 2' c to c spacing. Don't forget to include the calculations on proper ventilation for 1500 animal units, vent sizes required and if a fan is needed. And on and on.

Every little step laid the foundation for the next step as you went thru the problem. We all had constant anxiety of getting one area wrong and throwing off the whole problem three steps later. Point being there is so much to remember and be aware of for what dreams like a simple task. Inspectors are there to remember and reference those standards, ensuring the building is safe and meets the overall design intent.

i still have that book and reference it whenever I take on a building project. I think it was one of the cheapest text books I ever bought. I turn wrenches and jump out of airplanes for a living now, I'm not a construction guru by anymeans. It's nice to have a basic understanding of what to look for, and how important even the correct nail is though when paying someone else to build stuff.

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Yeah I think engineered plans is definitely the move, I just hadn’t looked that far ahead yet since we’re in phase one essentially. Even just chatting with the city guy doing the forms inspection he threw out a couple little facts like needing fire blocking on two sides of the building, inside and out. I never would’ve thought about that as it’s buried deep in the building code. Having an engineering office do the plans I will feel much better about making sure all that stuff is checked off.

 

[Herzog]

I’ve seen many engineered buildings cave in this last winter (2 of which were within 3 miles of me) while 100+ year old buildings not even break a sweat. I dunno man. Maybe we just use cheap shit nowdays.