Need help with a 2000 GMC Jimmy. GMC guys get in here

sLcREX

Formerly Maldito X
Location
Utah
So my mom's GMC started acting up a couple months ago, it started off by consuming a considerable more fuel, then it started having a hard time cranking up. And eventually it started bogging at stops and sputtering under hard acceleration. At first I thought it was the fuel pump so I dropped the tank and replaced it, the problem went away for about 3 weeks and then it came back, I thought it was a faulty unit so I had it replaced under warranty and I dropped the tank again to replace it. This time the problem came back after 3 days and much worse. Now it was smoking black and very rough idle, would bog under acceleration etc.

So through a very painful drive down to Autozone I got diagnostics ran on it, it had a laundry list of codes, can't remember them all off the top of my head but some of them were misfire in random cylinders, air/fuel mix, o2 sensor, and a couple others I can't remember.

I rented a fuel pressure tester and it holds pressure when I shut it off but while it was running it had a pressure over 100 psi, I couldn't read exactly where because it just maxed out the gauge. I called a tech at the dealership and he told me it should only have an idle fuel pressure around 54-59 or something like that so I figured the smoking issue could be that it's just running pig rich. So I opened up the manifold to look at the spider injectors and the rear regulator was leaking when I primed it so I decided to replace the whole unit, after that I put it back together again and the problem is the exact same, no change in behaviors.

Ran diagnostics again and there's fewer codes, but I am still getting a MAP sensor, air/fuel mix, and random misfire. So I went to the junk yard and got a throttle body off a 2000 blazer and put it on the jimmy to test if it was a bad sensor but still no change.

At this point I'm about to give up and drag it down to Tunex and let them figure it out unless someone can help me with additional ideas on what the problem could be? I hope this made sense. I'm on my phone typing this up.
 

TooeleBronco

let's go wheelin
Location
Tooele, UT
I had a Volvo that had multiple miss fire and fuel problems (or so I thought). I replaced the fuel pump and it changed a little but not enough. I ended up changing the mass airflow sensor and that did the trick. I was told that when it's not getting the right fuel mixture it'll misfire looking for fuel. That could also mean the o2 sensor. I hope that helps a little for you.
 

Jinx

when in doubt, upgrade!
Location
So Jordan, Utah
Is that the CPI intake with the spider in the intake, going to each cylinder?

sounds like to me your idle control motor has gone bad.

How many miles on the engine?

hang in there we can probably help you fix it.
 

Chevycrew

Well-Known Member
Location
WVC, UT
100 psi fuel pressure at the rail is a faulty fuel pressure regulator.

You may have got a faulty replacement.

When you get the 100psi back down to the required 60, ill bet your problems will go away.
 

sLcREX

Formerly Maldito X
Location
Utah
I thought it may be a plugged car but when I looked under the car it's welded directly to the down pipe and runs a good length of the exhaust which appeared to require dropping the cross frame so I opted not to remove it just yet. But possibly.

I also thought about the MAF being an issue, but I haven't replaced that one yet. Maybe I'll take a trip to the junk yard this week and see if I can find one. But I'm not sure what years are compatible for those.

After I replaced the spider assembly I did not test the pressure again since I had already returned it. I think I will stop by autozone or checker on my way home from work tomorrow and just buy one. It could be that the pressure is still high. Would any of these symptoms have anything to do with the 3 fuel lines on the fuel pump being hooked up wrong?
 

SpeedyVic

Registered User
Location
Logan, Ut
My GF drives the exact same year Jimmy. Make sure you do not have a vacuum leak. She is a Rural Postal Carrier and uses her Jimmy to deliver mail down some very bumpy roads. Somehow, the breather hose that comes off of the drivers side valve cover came off during her usual driving. It made her Jimmy run like a POS, very similar to what you are describing.
 

sLcREX

Formerly Maldito X
Location
Utah
Is that the CPI intake with the spider in the intake, going to each cylinder?

sounds like to me your idle control motor has gone bad.

How many miles on the engine?

hang in there we can probably help you fix it.

Sorry I missed this one earlier. It has the spider that has injectors going to each cylinder. The one I replaced it with looks like this

http://cdn1.bigcommerce.com/server5...ges/134/10723__94016.1346951201.1280.1280.jpg

But it's been replaced once before and the one I took out looked like this one.

http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mdqV-lrt6y0pKchw0mfXl_w.jpg
 

sLcREX

Formerly Maldito X
Location
Utah
I did check the vacuum like that goes into the valve cover, and also the one going to the master cylinder and both appear to be good.

One thing I didn't know about though was if the two spiders use different harnesses that plug in at the top? Is that the motor or something else?
 

B2-Bomber

Guest
Location
SL, UT
yeah that is not the CPI, the CPI was only up through 1995 i think. as obdII requirements starting in 1996 required sequential injection. they then went to the L31 style that you have with 6 individual injectors in a central pod (as opposed to a single injector like CPI had). the updated version that you bought moved the injector down to the port

the updated module (with injectors at the end, and wires going to them) is designed as a direct bolt in replacement. they use the exact same harness connector, and pin locations.

i have seen 2 different s-10s of that same generation do the exact same thing. it turned out to be a bad PCM. a $40 pcm from a j/y, and $40 to pay the dealer to sync it to that vehicle.

just saying
 
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Jinx

when in doubt, upgrade!
Location
So Jordan, Utah
Would any of these symptoms have anything to do with the 3 fuel lines on the fuel pump being hooked up wrong?

YES!!! if you have a blocked or pinched or whatever return line, the pump will continue to pump without returning excess fuel to the tank.

basically what happens your are hydro locking the injectors where there is too much pressure to let them fire correctly.

The point about your fuel pressure regulator being bad is a good one. If it wasn't bad before the possible blocked returned line, its bad now... :(
 

sLcREX

Formerly Maldito X
Location
Utah
What is the PCM? that may be something to look into. Is that the same as the ECU?

When I reassembled the fuel pump the line that goes in the middle didn't wanna go in easy, it was very very very hard to push in and it's a possibility that its not in all the way. Otherwise I'm pretty sure I've got the order in correctly. But I'll have to crawl down there and take a look. Just this 9* temperature doesn't sound very appealing lol
 
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B2-Bomber

Guest
Location
SL, UT
your jimmy doesn't have an ECU (engine control unit), it has a PCM (powertrain control module). it controls more than just the engine, it is on the passenger fender with 2 huge connectors going into it
 

sLcREX

Formerly Maldito X
Location
Utah
Oh ok. Thanks good to know, I'll keep that in mind after I check the fuel lines going to the pump and the MAF. I checked eBay for the PCM and one listing had it for $75 plus shipping preprogrammed to my Vin so I may look into that. I'm trying to minimize costs now. The spider was $190 online and that was breaking the bank. Good thing I'm doing the labor myself lol
 
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