Oil Question

diablokicks

Registered User
Location
Layton
This might just be a question that brings out opinion but i wanna hear what yall think.....

Does the different oil types make any difference, IE high mileage, 4x4, high performance, etc?

or is it all the same?
 

Tacoma

Et incurventur ante non
Location
far enough away
Synthetic makes a difference. Otherwise, my personal 300k says no difference.

Synthetic sticks better, which is way awesome on startup... Regular oil drains back and leaves a much, MUCH thinner film of protection, if even that.
 

Tacoma

Et incurventur ante non
Location
far enough away
Synthetic myths!!! When it came out, it was incompatible with a lot of seals in older vehicles, that's why it has the undeserved current reputation of causing leaks.

Synthetic oil is not hard on engines when you switch. If anything, it's very helpful. All those parts that were running dry at startup will have some lubrication finally. :D



as for sticking to the same oil, why is that smart???? If they meet the standard, how can it possibly make a difference?
 

notajeep

Just me
Location
Logan
Because they have different addatives that may not be compatable. You are right that they all must meet a standard, but after that, they can add what ever they want. Not saying that your motor will explode, but say that one oil has an addative that makes your seals expand, and you switch to one that dosent. You know have a leak(s) that could have been easily avoided.
That is all I am sayn... find what you like and stick with it.
 

Jay5.9L

...I just filled the cup.
Location
Riverton
I've used a synth blend in all of my trucks then the high milage stuff when they hit 75K. They are not much more than dino oil and far cheaper than the full synth stuff.
 

Devel

Just an Outlaw....
Location
North Salt Lake
in my TJ i run the Castrol Syntec, it mite be expensive but ive got 75k on my jeep and no leaks or engine problems. i will not nor recomend to any of my costomers to run anything by Shell, Chevron, Penzoil or Quakerstate, the are a waxy based oil which can leave basically Sludge in ur engine unlike Valvoline, Castrol and Mobil 1 which is a mineral based oil, much better 4 ur engine
 

78mitsu

Registered User
in my TJ i run the Castrol Syntec, it mite be expensive but ive got 75k on my jeep and no leaks or engine problems. i will not nor recomend to any of my costomers to run anything by Shell, Chevron, Penzoil or Quakerstate, the are a waxy based oil which can leave basically Sludge in ur engine unlike Valvoline, Castrol and Mobil 1 which is a mineral based oil, much better 4 ur engine

they are all technically "wax" based even though that is a far streach from what it actually means, dyno motor oils are from a chemical family called a parafin (it is in wax, but it isn't wax) basically parafin is kerosene, you can chain it up or out, up is a strait chain parafin, out is a bent or angle chain parafin,

A bent chain parafin exposes the orbital shell on the carbon atom where then chain 'bends' that creates a location that allows hydrogen bonding, the advantage to this is it sticks to metal and will protect a motor during startup, the disadvantage is it traps the tiny metal particles that float in your oil and create sludge, also these oils tend to be more viscous, so they need less Viscosity index improvement. if you think of an oil molecule as a bearing of sorts, this one would be L shaped, so it provides less lubricity.
This type of oil is also not compatible with certain oil detergents so it tends to not keep an engine as clean.

a straint chain parafin exposes very little, which makes it less viscous, but extremely slippery. less likely to stick to metal and doesn't create sludge, Valvoline and Mobile one are both strait chain pfs. so you know most strait chain oil add a certain amount of a bent chain as an additive to help with the startup. if you think of this molecule as a bearing it is as straint as they come which makes it slicker.

A synthetic oil is based on a strait chain pf, the difference is they get an extremely consistent base of oil, less then a 3% varient, as compared to a 15-20% variant in standard oils. They can carefully control the properties and the way an oil behaves because it's so consistent.

If you have a high mileage engine that has been using havoline/Penzoyl/Chevron/walmart/Quacker Stat/ you shouldn't switch to synthetic, it will F*** up your universe, it will cause the sludge to slide and it can plug things you don't want plugged.

If you use the others, you should switch before 50,000 miles, but not before 15000 (unless your new motor has roller everything then anytime you want) because pf oils cause rubber to expand the synthetic won't so once you switch you will find leaks you never knew you had.

I use synthetic on my Car and I did on my '02 chevy, it's good for 2-5 mpg and makes them start easier in the winter time. i've used Mobile and Valvoline synthetic and I can't say as I've seen a difference between the two.
 

kowe69

wannabe
From what I've read about Synthetic oil is that is does not really cause seals to leak. What happens in older engines is that seals develop leaks but they are often sealed up (like stop leak) by the "sludge" or additives that conventional oil leaves behind. Synthetic oil cleans much better than conventional and therefor removes the plug that had sealed the leak in the first place. Synthetic is best when used on new engines that have already been broken in and then used through out the engine life.
 

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
I'd run straight oil or synthetic's, none of the 'high mileage' crap.

Also, on new engines it's wise to run regular oil so they can break in. But after they are broke in, go synthetic or even a blend.

I've always been a Quaker State or Valvoline only person. QS for my car and Valvoline for high performance crap like my boat or ? My Jeep gets Royal Purple everywhere and I've been very happy with it's results, other than the tranny. It seems to make it difficult to shift. I'm stil trying to find an oil that doesn't, without running the Jeep stuff....
 

yellowbronco

Cuts Through Grease !!!
Location
Moab
they are all technically "wax" based even though that is a far streach from what it actually means, dyno motor oils are from a chemical family called a parafin (it is in wax, but it isn't wax) basically parafin is kerosene, you can chain it up or out, up is a strait chain parafin, out is a bent or angle chain parafin,

A bent chain parafin exposes the orbital shell on the carbon atom where then chain 'bends' that creates a location that allows hydrogen bonding, the advantage to this is it sticks to metal and will protect a motor during startup, the disadvantage is it traps the tiny metal particles that float in your oil and create sludge, also these oils tend to be more viscous, so they need less Viscosity index improvement. if you think of an oil molecule as a bearing of sorts, this one would be L shaped, so it provides less lubricity.
This type of oil is also not compatible with certain oil detergents so it tends to not keep an engine as clean.

a straint chain parafin exposes very little, which makes it less viscous, but extremely slippery. less likely to stick to metal and doesn't create sludge, Valvoline and Mobile one are both strait chain pfs. so you know most strait chain oil add a certain amount of a bent chain as an additive to help with the startup. if you think of this molecule as a bearing it is as straint as they come which makes it slicker.

A synthetic oil is based on a strait chain pf, the difference is they get an extremely consistent base of oil, less then a 3% varient, as compared to a 15-20% variant in standard oils. They can carefully control the properties and the way an oil behaves because it's so consistent.

If you have a high mileage engine that has been using havoline/Penzoyl/Chevron/walmart/Quacker Stat/ you shouldn't switch to synthetic, it will F*** up your universe, it will cause the sludge to slide and it can plug things you don't want plugged.

If you use the others, you should switch before 50,000 miles, but not before 15000 (unless your new motor has roller everything then anytime you want) because pf oils cause rubber to expand the synthetic won't so once you switch you will find leaks you never knew you had.

I use synthetic on my Car and I did on my '02 chevy, it's good for 2-5 mpg and makes them start easier in the winter time. i've used Mobile and Valvoline synthetic and I can't say as I've seen a difference between the two.

Wow, maybe you could teach a class on motor oil safety!!:hickey:
 

yellowbronco

Cuts Through Grease !!!
Location
Moab
Lol for real, he's like a real teacher, my head hurt after readin it, and had to go back and re-read it lol:rofl:

A bent chain parafin exposes the orbital shell on the carbon atom where then chain 'bends' that creates a location that allows hydrogen bonding


Just reading that made my eyes go crossed!!!:eek:
 

blazinzuk

Registered User
Location
Idaho Falls Id.
this is just my personal expirance but years ago I had a somewhat disposable motor and every one I know said you can't switch to synthetic after running dino oil, well being the person I am I switched to synthetic, for 10,000 miles than back to dino oil for another 10,000 miles and then back to synthetic. The motor was a 225 slant six and I had zero problems no extra leaks, nothing. It seemed to run better on synthetic. The engine had about 125000 miles on it when I started.

Hence I have routinely ignored the "don't switch to synthetic" advice and have changed to synthetic oils in quite a few used cars since then. I have had zero problems.
 
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