Ready Welder II 1000ADP

cruiseroutfit

Cruizah!
Moderator
Vendor
Location
Sandy, Ut
RockMonkey said:
So how do you have it wired? Do you have two batteries in your truck? Do you disconnect them from the truck wiring before connecting the welder to prevent sending 24 volts through your truck's system?


Good question, one I am trying to implement...

I have the WranglerNW dual battery kit on my Cruiser, with a switch on the dash I can activate both batteries, but I want to be able to run them in series for the welder, while disconnected from the rest of the Cruiser harness so I don't fry anything (not like I have any expensive computers to kill :p)

As of yet I have just disconnected the main lead into my Cruiser harness (3 plugs), and hooked it up. But I want to add another solenoid & switch that dissconnects those lines automatically when in "welding" mode...
 

Badger

I am the Brute squad
Location
South Salt Lake
i just ordered extras from warn when i got my winch .

i remember reading an article awhile back about a part that NAPA sells that is a 12/24 volt switch/controller.
 

anvil

Registered User
Location
Idaho Falls
It would be nice to have a single switch that would isolate the vehicle and connect the batteries in series for welding. Sounds like a fun project. I think it could be done with 3 or 4 starters relays and a couple of transistors. I'll draw something up and see if I can reduce the number of parts. Total cost should be around $40 to make.

1 or 2 relays to disconnect the batteries from the vehicle
1 relay to disconnect one of the battery grounds
1 relay to connect the battery ground to the other battery positive

The transistors would operate the relays and provide some timing control so everything happened in the right order.
 

Badger

I am the Brute squad
Location
South Salt Lake
anvil said:
It would be nice to have a single switch that would isolate the vehicle and connect the batteries in series for welding. Sounds like a fun project. I think it could be done with 3 or 4 starters relays and a couple of transistors. I'll draw something up and see if I can reduce the number of parts. Total cost should be around $40 to make.

1 or 2 relays to disconnect the batteries from the vehicle
1 relay to disconnect one of the battery grounds
1 relay to connect the battery ground to the other battery positive

The transistors would operate the relays and provide some timing control so everything happened in the right order.

uhm did you even click on the link i have above your post.they guy already did it
 

anvil

Registered User
Location
Idaho Falls
Thanks I didn't see the link. I like his design. It has some advantages over what I was thinking. It won't isolate the batteries from your vehicle while welding though. It doesn't sound like that has been a problem for him so far.

Ford starter relays (which it looks like he used) are Wells PN F492. I think that is the brand AutoZone sells. There is probably a better AC Delco version available.

My Newark catalog show Stancor PN 586-902 is a SPNO 200A continuous 600A inrush 12V relay. Price is $42.58. These are much larger than the ones shown in the link. A SPDT is availabe for $57.69
 
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Badger

I am the Brute squad
Location
South Salt Lake
like he said its all good except for welding on his own rig.at that point you have to wire it like usual with jumper cables directly to each battery to isolate it from the truck.most times i have used my welder has been to fix other rigs or weld something that isn't part of my truck so it would seem perfect for what i need.

like i also said you can go to NAPA and ask for a series parallel switch for a tractor trailer.since they use a 12 volt system with a 24 volt starter.
 

bobdog

4x4 Addict!
Location
Sandy
I have never used one but I have a hard time seeing how the reddy welder would be better than a alternator based stick welder as a trail fix tool. I am also confused about how a wire feed welder that only operates at 12 volts (worthless for almost anything I would think) or 24 volts (too hot for almost any short arc transfer applications) would be very usefull.

I would like to try one out and see what all the fuss is about, but I think, if I need a welder to get off the trail, I would rather have a stick than a spoolgun full of flux core.
 

Badger

I am the Brute squad
Location
South Salt Lake
first they are half the price of a stick welder system if you go with one of the ready built ones.second its mig a retard can work a mig.it works on 18v to 36v and is very good at what it does.i'm a person that thinks any true offroad vehical should have two batteries so you already have half of what you need.you would be suprised to what they can do .i have welded everything from sheet metal to the D-ring tie downs on my trailer for my jeep.that was a year ago and they are still holding strong and i tie it down good and tight.i have rebuilt my rear tire swing with it and that is holding a 36".
 

bobdog

4x4 Addict!
Location
Sandy
Tell me more about the voltage control. Can you ramp down voltage so that with 24 volts of battery you get in to that 18-20 volt range that would be usefull for what we need? I can see how you get the 36 volts with three batterys but I fail to see how you could ever use it. 29 or 30 volts would be usefull to spray or run duel sheild with .045 wire but it would melt that gun in a matter of probably ten inches of bead and you would need to pack gas.
 

bobdog

4x4 Addict!
Location
Sandy
Now that I think about it you could pack one of those 6volt optimas that would get you 18 when run in series with a 12.
 

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
I'm stupid about electrical wizardry, so I have no idea why you think 24 volts is too much, but I can tell you with 24 volts this welder works very well. It is flux core so the weld doesn't look as good as it would with gas, but it will weld in the wind. What's the big difference between welding with flux-core wire and flux-covered stick? Same thing, different delivery method. The welder does not have a voltage control (other than the number of batteries you hook it to), but it does have variable speed wire feed. If you're burning through, turn down the wire speed, just like a mig. I like it more than an underhood stick for several reasons. First, I have more than one off-road rig. If I buy an underhood stick welder I cna only put it on one rig. If I'm wheeling the other one, and I need the welder, I'm screwed. With this I can throw it in whatever I'm driving that day. Second is cost, it's considerably cheaper then a comercially available underhood stick welder. Third is versatility. This gives me the ability to weld aluminum, which I don't really have with my mig at home. Fourth, I hate welding with stick welders.

Badger, why do you think every offroad vehicle should have two batteries? How does two batteries help me drive over bigger rocks and up steeper hills and across tippier sidehills? I can tell you how it HURTS, but how does it help? Enlighten me. I guess the rig in my avatar is not a "true offroad vehicle". :rolleyes:
 

Badger

I am the Brute squad
Location
South Salt Lake
first i believe everything should have a back up.i don't like to have one of anything.what you like to run and what i like to run are two different things.whats wrong with that?i also always have my welder so it helps to have two batteries incase i have to weld to myself.i tend to wheel by myself and i like to always make it back if i have problems.

so what that statement hurt you that much that what i feel and what you do are two different things?
 

RufftyTuffty

Registered User
Location
AZ
bobdog said:
I have never used one but I have a hard time seeing how the reddy welder would be better than a alternator based stick welder as a trail fix tool. I am also confused about how a wire feed welder that only operates at 12 volts (worthless for almost anything I would think) or 24 volts (too hot for almost any short arc transfer applications) would be very usefull.

I would like to try one out and see what all the fuss is about, but I think, if I need a welder to get off the trail, I would rather have a stick than a spoolgun full of flux core.

Think amps not volts ;)

Had my RW for over a year now....and it saved not only my butt more than once but a whole bunch of my buddies too :)

Worth it's weight in gold.

~Mike
 

bobdog

4x4 Addict!
Location
Sandy
RufftyTuffty said:
Think amps not volts ;)

Had my RW for over a year now....and it saved not only my butt more than once but a whole bunch of my buddies too :)

Worth it's weight in gold.

~Mike

No think volts not amps. Wire feed is a constant voltage prossess as opposed to stick which is contant currant(amps). Amperage at a given voltage seting can be controled by wire speed but only up to a certain point and still have a good arc. I need to try a ready welder out and see how it works but I have welded with machines set at 24 volts and have found it to usually be a part of the dial that is rarely usefull. It falls between a good shortarc and spray and duel sheild
settings most of the time.
 
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