Steering help.

[reddevil]

OK, first off let me just say that I know very little and need a lot of help.

The bolts on my tie rod keep coming loose and breaking. This is the way it was set up when I bought the Cherokee. I want to say the the steering set up is Rock Krawler. To me it looks like the spacer between the joint and the knuckle touches the inside and the outside of the joint, so the outside of the joint turns the bolt. If that is the case, then were can I get new shims, or is there something else I should look at doing. The bolt that are used are 14mm.

Any help is much appreciated. Where can I get the parts I need to fix this. I bought a used bullet proof steering set up, but it doesn't use as large of links. So I think it will be better and easier to fix what I have.
Thanks, Rod

 

[Slangy]

I also need a lot of help in everything on my Jeep. The thing I would do first would get a blolt that accepts a cotter pin. That will keep the nut from spinning off.
That is what I would try first.
Good luck.

 

[reddevil]

That is a very good idea. I would also like to find out what is causing it to loosen, because if something isn't right it will just wear something else out.

 

[Slangy]

I think with all the movement they receive they are prone to coming loose. That is why most all steering parts use cotter pins. At least that is what I think I could be wrong though. I have just noticed that about every new steering part you buy has a cotter pin and nut with it. Hopefully that is your only problem. But I would not take my word for it though.

 

[smashmetal]

Is the hole the bolt go's throught still tapered for the factory TRE? Or has it been drilled. Scratch that! I just read that there is some kind of bushing in there. I think your problem lies with the bushing between the bolt and your knuckle.
I did a dana 60, but when I made my tie rod with heimes ends I drilled the hole in the knuckle straight. Used an grade 8 bolt and a nyloc nut (no cotter pins) and never had a problem with it lossening.

 

[Chevycrew]

It looks to me that the washer in between the joint and the knuckle is too big around. By contacting the joint the way it is, it is removing the flexability of the joint. I would put a smaller diameter spacer, or misalignment joint in there.

Or just remove the washer, I dont see any reason it is there.

Unless it is to keep the sleeve in the knuckle from sliding up? Need to see what all the parts look like taken apart.

 

[UNSTUCK]

If it were me, with out seeing it, I would first off install the bolt from top to bottom. So if the nut does come off, the bolt wont fall out, right away, while your driving down the road. Then you need to make sure that the surface of the steering arm is perfectly flat where the head of the bolt or nut rest. After that I think I would use a longer bolt that you can double nut. A greaseable rod end would go a long way to prevent the end from seizing. The cotter pin is a good idea, but if the nut wants to come loose, over time it will take the pin out. A castle nut with a cotter pin would last much longer.

 

[grandmaster]

Maybe fix it like everyone else is saying and throw some lock tite on just to be safe

 

[reddevil]

All good idea's. Chevydrew, I think you are right about the washer being to big. I think a misalignment spacer and a longer bolt that I can double nut is the way to go.

Anyone know of any place in Utah County were I can find a misalignment spacer?
Also I would like to see pictures of some good steering set ups.

Thanks, Rod

 

[smashmetal]

I really don't think a misalignment spacer is goiing to do any thing for ya. A tie rod is a straight push/ pull action. there is no need for those hiems end's to travel out side of that motion, unless it's smashed or hung up on a rock or something. You should check the hole, if you've had problems with this coming loose before there is a pretty good chance the hole is a bit worn or ob-longed. if thats the case, a bolt won't stay tight in a sloppy hole.

what size is that hiems end any way?

Any way, I of course had to drill my knuckle so I could put a hiems end where the TRE use to be. Bigger chevy TRE's measure about 3/4" at the largest part of the TRE taper, so I drilled my knuckle straight through with a 3/4 bit. Here is my old set up, and I never had a problem with it.

 

[reddevil]

I really don't think a misalignment spacer is goiing to do any thing for ya. A tie rod is a straight push/ pull action. there is no need for those hiems end's to travel out side of that motion, unless it's smashed or hung up on a rock or something. You should check the hole, if you've had problems with this coming loose before there is a pretty good chance the hole is a bit worn or ob-longed. if thats the case, a bolt won't stay tight in a sloppy hole.

what size is that hiems end any way?

Very good point with the spacers.

The hiems fit a 14mm bolt, but not a 9/16"

 

[wheelin4me]

A friend of mine has the rock crawler high steer kit on his grand and has the same problem with his and its done it since it was new. He said he check theire web site and they don't offer it anymore maybe this is why? If it were me I'd give them a call an ask if they have a fix for theire product.

 

[reddevil]

A friend of mine has the rock crawler high steer kit on his grand and has the same problem with his and its done it since it was new. He said he check their web site and they don't offer it anymore maybe this is why? If it were me I'd give them a call an ask if they have a fix for their product.

That is interesting, I hadn't heard of others with problems. Maybe I will call them.

I took out the spacer that was in there, and put in a smaller washer. Then I got a longer bolt and put on some jam nuts W/loctite. It feels better, but I will know if it works after I drive it for a few days.

Thanks for the replies guys.