Super 35 kit

[pokeyYJ]

Has anybody had experience with the super 35 kit and the detroit that comes with it. Are these axles all that they are advertised to be? I know the kit is around $1K not including instal, can you do a Ford 8.8 for similar cash. It is going on a YJ and I don't have any plans to run anything bigger than a 33. I just want a little more assurance against breakage and a locker.

 

[Hickey]

I would probably say go with the 8.8. It is stronger to begin with, you can find them with 4.10 gears pretty easy too, but I wouldn't care if it had the limited slip, that would just give me more reason to weld it.

 

[pokeyYJ]

What kind of vehicle should I look for to find the 4.10's in, if I could find this I wouldn't have to regear because I have 4.11's right now. Would I need to get the yoke on the axle changed to use my current drive shaft?

 

[Hickey]

You don't need to change the yoke, Six states has conversion U-joints. Any junkyard should be able to tell you the R&P or there should be a tag on the axle that says what it is.

 

[Hickey]

Originally posted by pokeyYJ
I don't have any plans to run anything bigger than a 33.

I remember when I said that... about 15 months ago.

 

[pokeyYJ]

Don't the 8.8 come out of Exploders and Rangers? How difficult is is to find lockers for these? I have also heard that they are about 1 inch wider than the d 35. Do they use the same bolt pattern or will I have to buy new rims also?

 

[Economos]

Look for a '95 or newer Exploder or Mountaineer 8.8. These axles run stock 4.10s, Trac-Lok, 31 spline shafts and disc brakes. Do not even bother with the older 8.8s or those out of the Rangers. They all run higher gear ratios, drum brakes and smaller 28 spline shafts. I suggest you check out www.mountainoffroad.com (M.O.R.E). They've got everything you'll need for the 8.8 swap. IMHO, save yourself the money and do the 8.8, you won't regret it.

 

[Hickey]

yup, exploders and rangers. Same bolt pattern. Lockers galore, but you will probably have to call to get the price.

 

[Economos]

Originally posted by pokeyYJ
Don't the 8.8 come out of Exploders and Rangers? How difficult is is to find lockers for these? I have also heard that they are about 1 inch wider than the d 35. Do they use the same bolt pattern or will I have to buy new rims also?

Exploder 8.8s run 5x4.5 bolt pattern, so you will not have to get new rims or bolt pattern adapters. They run at around 59.5" wide, so are about 1" narrower than XJ/YJ/TJ/ZJ width, so its not imparative that you run a spacer and can be overlooked, but some run them.

Locker selections for the 8.8s are plentyful. Detroits, LockRights, QuickLocks, PowerTrax, etc. etc.

 

[pokeyYJ]

Do the 4.10's come in the 5.0 V-8 motors or is it just a 4.0 V-6 axle? If the 8.8 uses disc's what kind a proportioning(?) valve do I need to use. What if I don't know how to weld, how much do you think a shop would charge to weld the perches on?

 

[Economos]

Don't think it matters if its a v8 or v6, as long as you get the '95 or newer housings, you're good to go. Perches shouldn't be too much, just make sure that your pinion angle is set propperly. Also, be sure to weld on some hi-clearance shock mounts flush with the tubes. Very simple and a great mod to protect the shock bodies.

 

[pokeyYJ]

I just got done reading a write up about the swap, the guy said that the 8.8 is way bigger and not too expensive. The one concern that I have is that he said the pinion looks like it is lower and slightly off center. This will force me to install a SYE, that adds to the cost quiet a bit.

 

[Economos]

Oh yeah, no brake upgrades will have to be done from what I've heard. Just weld up the mounts and perches and sling it under. To get the parking brake to work, you'll need the M.O.R.E stuff. Check the website.

 

[pokeyYJ]

Hey thanx for the advise, If I end up going this way you wouldn't want to buy a low miles D-35 with the trac-loc?

 

[Economos]

Originally posted by pokeyYJ
I just got done reading a write up about the swap, the guy said that the 8.8 is way bigger and not too expensive. The one concern that I have is that he said the pinion looks like it is lower and slightly off center. This will force me to install a SYE, that adds to the cost quiet a bit.

Yeah, if you don't already have an SYE, you will want to do it. The pinion offset is like .5" or something, which aint shiat, but its a perfect time to do the SYE. For cost factor, I would say that the RE hack and tap is the best route. Its only around ~$200 and will work just as well as an expensive JB, AA, or Woods conversion. If you run the RE, go grab an XJ front driveshaft and have it shortened for your rear tail shaft. This works very well and is plenty strong for most aplications. Otherwise, look to spend ~$400-$500 on an SYE and CV tailshaft.

RE hack and tap install.

 

[Economos]

Originally posted by pokeyYJ
Hey thanx for the advise, If I end up going this way you wouldn't want to buy a low miles D-35 with the trac-loc?

Haha, nice try my friend.

No, as a matter of fact, I started my hunt for a '70s 1/2-ton Ford HP44/9" rear last weekend. Also on the look out for Scout rear 44, EB front 44 and Wagoneer 44s. I really like the idea of the HP44/9", but the 65.5" width is kinda deturring me. Who knows, we'll see.

 

[pokeyYJ]

I had never thought of using a front shaft out of a XJ. They use a CV joint on the transfer case side right? How about a TJ front shaft I know that they also use a CV joint. Interesting!

 

[pokeyYJ]

Man those are big axles, do you really need that kind of beef? From the pic it looks like your XJ has 32's on it and with a 44 or Ford 9 you could get pretty happy with the stupid pedal.

 

[Economos]

Yeah, the TJs run a CV front shaft, but I'd run the XJ shaft. It runs slip splines at the pinion. So just flip the short side towards the pinion in the rear and call her quits. Also, its very easy to have a few of these shortened for spares. Very cheap at the junk yards and run 1310 joints at the pinion. Grab a few XJ shafts, take some measurements with the 8.8 and SYE done, call your local driveline shop, haul in the shafts and have them shortened. Nothin to it.

 

[Economos]

Actually, they're 33x10.5s with cutting and 5" front, 6" rear. I just got the 33s before summer, so I'll be running these till I get enough cash for the 35s or 37s. On the axles, I'll be raising the spring mounts about 1-2" off the tubes so that I can retain my current coils, but have room for bigger tires. The LCA mounts will be tagged on flush with the tubes for clearance and reduced angles, long arms eventually. The rear suspension will be getting new leafs and shackles possbily.