Time to bring my isuzu crawler back from the dead

Too Far

parts is parts
Location
Highland
I'm getting sick of seeing my old rig sit in the back yard slowly decaying away. I need to either part out the good and scrap the rest or take it in a new direction.
It started life as a '87 trooper. I added a '94 3.2 v6 and 5 speed. SAS in the front, waggy, chevy mix d44, and a rodeo d44 out back. 4.88 gears with lockrites. leaf springs over axles.
I then built a dual t-case and called it done. I was able to keep it street leagal and even had the states blessing on the motor swap. Eventually the body was so beat up that I had to replace it. At about that time Todd Adams (R.I.P.) put his old amigo up for sale, so I bought it and started to graft the amigo body onto my trooper frame. I stopped working on this when it became clear that ever being able to license the thing was unlikely.

Now, I am thinking about picking up a pre '67 willys of some sort and and using the drivetrain that I have to make a decent wheeler that I can actually use.
Right now I am looking at cj3a-b type willys. I will need to be able to license it when its done, so that is my main problem.
I would like to end up with a decent vehicle on 35" tires that I can tool around in.

For those who have done similar builds I would like to learn what i can from your experiences. What do I need to look for as far as the donor jeep? Title is going to be important for my plans. I don't know much about the old jeeps, and don't want to end up with one that is missing some unobtanium part that makes me regret it later.

Many thanks for any help/advice.
 

Deweyxj

Invisible, on purpose!
The early Jeeps are cool but small/short. The flat fenders & early CJ5's are 80" WB which makes it tough to fit 35's without steep driveline angles!

A small & compact V6 is a good choice but the available trans/t-case combos could be very challenging!

There is a good build thread of a stretched flattie I'll see if I can find!
 

Too Far

parts is parts
Location
Highland
Thanks for the reply. I actually picked up a 47 cj2a for this project. I am stretching the body right now, similar to what Carl did on his. Shooting for around 94 inch wheel base.
 

bryson

RME Resident Ninja
Supporting Member
Location
West Jordan
CJ2A is a cool choice for sure. I'd recommend ditching the stock frame unless you plan on bracing the crap out of it. The older frames are fairly easy to duplicate with some 2"x3" or 2"x4" .120"ish tubing.
 

Too Far

parts is parts
Location
Highland
I won't be using the Willy frame. It is very spindly for sure. Right now I plan on using the trooper frame since it is all ready finished.
 

jeep-N-montero

Formerly black_ZJ
Location
Bountiful
There is a vintage Jeep wagon of some sort sitting in a guy's yard on 400 north and about 600 east in Bountiful, all it does is sit there and I have thought about inquiring, you should look into it.
 

Too Far

parts is parts
Location
Highland
Here are a couple of pics of the body sides I made up. I used 14 ga. sheet. I went with 5" strech in the wheel arch and will do 4 or 5 inches in the door opening as well. I made the new wheel arch 36" in diameter, but havent cut them out yet. That will wait until i'm sure they are where I want them. This tub was pretty rusty, so it will be mostly new metal when its done.
tubwithoutbondo.jpg

2a1.jpg

2a2.jpg

2a4.jpg

2a5.jpg

2a6.jpg
 

Deweyxj

Invisible, on purpose!
I see you have looked at his site & picked up some good ideas, & the direction you're going looks like it's going to be way cool!!:)

I'm looking forward to seeing the progress as it comes along!!:greg:
 

Too Far

parts is parts
Location
Highland
Made a little progress this week. First off I decided to change things up a little. I was going to add the 5" that I stretched the rear to the back of the bed area, in effect making the bed area 5" longer to match the outside stretch. After I mocked up the seating a little I decided that I would be better off if the whole interior stretch was done in front of the bed area. Basically keeping the bed the factory length and adding all 9" to the floor. this will allow me to install the seats lower and in front of the raised bed section. I had to cut out some of the work I had all ready done, but in the end I think this way will be better. I had to move the wheel opening back another two inches so the tires clear the front of the fenderwells since I am moving the whole thing back.
All in all I am saving the bed floor and will be replacing everything else. I ordered reproduction fender tops, so they look stock, and will be making my own panels for the rest.
Picture of the bed floor I am reusing.
2a10.jpg

Picture of where the wheel opening is going to be.
2a9.jpg

Picture of the inner wheel well sides I made up.
2a11.jpg
 

Too Far

parts is parts
Location
Highland
Made a little more progress this weekend. I'm getting sick of sheet metal fab! I keep telling myself that it will be something cool when its done.
Sides installed to bed floor.
2a12.jpg

Fender tops welded in.
2a14.jpg

I decided to hand hammer out this part, it took most of the day. It turned out ok, but took way too long.
2a15.jpg

Bed floor was in decent shape, but needed a couple of small repair patches.
2a16.jpg

Added new under bed braces, stock had two, but I added a third for good measure.
2a17.jpg

Bed floor section being mocked up into tub before welding.
2a13.jpg
 

Too Far

parts is parts
Location
Highland
A little more progress, slow but sure.
Finnished up welding in the bed/fender section to the tub.
2a20.jpg

Finally took the time to cut out the wheel arches.
2a19.jpg

Poser picture of a 37" comp claw in the wheel opening.
2a18.jpg
 
Top