Trailer build / Crawler hauler

SWALLDOG

Active Member
Location
WX, UTAH
Thanks guys. Yeah the 8" is definitely stout! Haha
Parts, those fenders look awesome! Real clean looking. I did start building some. I'm using 1/4" tread plate, because it was free. But they should be tuff enough to drive over. I need to post some pics.
 

SWALLDOG

Active Member
Location
WX, UTAH
So to the outside of my tires from the outside of the frame rail is about 11". So my fenders w be 11" and I wanted to build some deck extentions that are about as wide as the fenders. They are kind of like low boy trailer extentions with some type of a triangle bracket under it. Expect unlike the low boy, it will all be welded solid. Not removable.
I framed up the extentions with some 1.5" square tube. .120" wall. They stick out 10 3/4" so a 2 X 10 (which I found out is 9 1/4" wide) should fit inside. I plan on building some triangle brackets to help support it but will also have a flat on top to screw the wood to.

Front

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Back

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SWALLDOG

Active Member
Location
WX, UTAH
I got my fenders all built. I built them out of some 1/4" tread my buddie had. All the rems he had were 8' x11" wide which worked out just about perfect. I wanted the fenders 11" wide but I also wanted to bend an 1.5" lip on it. So the top of the fender is 9.5" wide and then just slants down to meet the frame. They look a little tall for the tires but I built them w bigger tires and axles in mind. My tires are 27" and all the tires I was measuring on 10k and 15k trailers were 32". So I drew them up in plas cam w the axle bottomed out against the frame and 32" tires and then gave myself 1" clearance around the tire. All in all the fenders ended up being 7.750" tall.

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SWALLDOG

Active Member
Location
WX, UTAH
Looks great, good call on the tread plate for driving over the fenders!
Thanks! Yeah they turned out pretty stout. I'm thinking I am going to use a piece of that 1.5" .120" wall square to put a little brace, in the middle, under the fender. A 42" TSL on a 15" wheel, filled w water might still put a little bow in that fender over time. Haha.
 

SWALLDOG

Active Member
Location
WX, UTAH
I put a little fish plate where the dove tail is welded on. It's probably alright with out it but I just wanted that little piece of mind. It was just a scrap off the plas table. 1/4" plate and about 5" in diameter.

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Rock Taco

Well-Known Member
Location
Sandy
Are you going to add any more cross bracing to the dove tail area? How are you going to support the deck material?
 

Pile of parts

Well-Known Member
Location
South Jordan
Do you have enough room to keep your rear tires on the Dove tail area, or will they be on the fenders when towing? Either way, a little bracing, like you said might not be a bad idea. Fenders look great. I was going to build mine about the same way except with channel. If I remember correctly, the material cost was about the same. In the end I determined I didn't have a way to cut channel that big so I went with the setup I have now. Nice work!
 

SWALLDOG

Active Member
Location
WX, UTAH
Are you going to add any more cross bracing to the dove tail area? How are you going to support the deck material?
Yes, I'm going to run 3 more pieces of that 3" C channel. One where I just welded in that fish plate one in the middle of the dove tail and one at the end. I've just been putting it off because I want to have my ramps come out the back of the trailer and it might interfere with those C's. Still working on that. Haha.
 

SWALLDOG

Active Member
Location
WX, UTAH
Do you have enough room to keep your rear tires on the Dove tail area, or will they be on the fenders when towing? Either way, a little bracing, like you said might not be a bad idea. Fenders look great. I was going to build mine about the same way except with channel. If I remember correctly, the material cost was about the same. In the end I determined I didn't have a way to cut channel that big so I went with the setup I have now. Nice work!
Thanks man. Yeah the dove tail is 3' long and should be even w the end of the tires or a little past w the buggy is on. The front of the rear tires should be right against the fenders when it's on. That is if my measurements and everything is right. Lol
 

SWALLDOG

Active Member
Location
WX, UTAH
I've been having a hard time deciding how and where to put the ramps. I never use them for my buggy unless it's not driving and I have to winch it on. Lol so I was thinking about just building them later. But my luck, first trip out I would need them and not have them. So I really wanted the ramps to come out the back. I think it's just really clean and you can pull them out and hook them right on the back. I decided to build the ramps out of that 1.5" square tube. Now that I made that command decision I can build the ramp pockets. The ramps are going to be 5' or just under. So I got a piece of 2" square tube .120" wall 10 ft long. The plan was to cut the pieces down the middle so I would have some 2" x1" C channel. I cut the 10ft piece in half and then welded them together. I wanted to do this before I cut the square down the middle to try and keep it from turning in to a banana. It worked good. The outside pieces barely had a bow to them after the cut.
 

SWALLDOG

Active Member
Location
WX, UTAH
On the very back of the trailer I would not be able to use that 3" C channel where the ramp pockets are. So I used a piece of 1.5" X .250" angle. I cut out some "utah" shaped brackets to give it some support. And then on the ends where there is no ramp pocket I will use the 3" C channel. I also put a 1" hole for my wiring for lights and stuff.

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SWALLDOG

Active Member
Location
WX, UTAH
Once I got the back pocket done I could weld in the ramp pockets. I also welded a piece of 2" X .120" flat bar across the front so the ramps could not slide out. I had welded some small strap across the bottom and then the top will be welded to the 3" C channel to keep the rails in place.

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SWALLDOG

Active Member
Location
WX, UTAH
On the last piece of 3" C channel before the back, I had to notch it out for the ramp pockets. I cut out .750" . I also welded in a piece of .250" X 1.250" strap across the piece I cut out to stiffen it up a bit. Hopefully it will take the abuse.

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SWALLDOG

Active Member
Location
WX, UTAH
So I called the alignment Specialists the other day. On one of my axles the tire looks a little crooked. When I was working at vector we had problems w some of the trailers blowing tires. Turns out one of the axles was bent. After we took them to the alignment Specialists it was never a problem. Anyways I wanted to know what they charged, how they aligned them ect. I've never seen any kind of alignment shims for trailers and I didn't know if I need to build them in or not. For a tandem axle bummer pull it's $69 and they just bend the axles to make it straight. I don't know if the axles were bent when I got them or if they got bent after. They have been sitting under my buggy for the last 4 years and I may or may not have driven over them a few times pulling the buggy in and out. Haha. It's good to know I can get it aligned and it doesn't sound like a big deal.
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
I got my trailer aligned at Alignment Specialists too--made lots of good difference for me. :)
 
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