Utah BroncoSpeed - FOR SALE (see adverts section in RME4x4)

[denhabr]

February 2010 - Update 3

Almost there!!!

Seats are in, roll cage is done, rubber flooring and headliner is back in, dash reinstalled, and the Hella 4000s and 500s are wired up and working like a charm!

My fabricators provided for a LOT of leg room in back for the rear seat passengers...which translates to a little less room for storage behind the rear seats. However, I will still be able to get a large cooler back there, along with some smaller tool kits to either side of the diagonal side bars. The spare is going on the OEM swing-away tire carrier.

The rear-facing amber LED light was mounted a little too high for my tastes, so the guys are going to remount it lower on the c-pillar and closer to the rear glass.

I'm ordering some Mastercraft restraints to replace the OEM Ford seat belts. With the new configuration on the off-road seats and cage, the stock belts were just not going to cut it. So, I opted for the 4-point version in grey...with sewn in shoulder straps that loop around the lower lap belt outside of the buckle (vice having a shoulder strap that connects into the latch itself.)

The rear axle truss is still pending fabrication...and that should be about it. Then comes the final payment!!!

Plans are to take it to my first race in May. I'll be spectating/gambling/drinking at the BOR Racing Wendover 300 event in Wendover, NV, May 1!

 

[denhabr]

February 2010 - Update 4 (Cage pics...Part 2)

Some under body cage mounting photos...

 

[landtortise89]

looks great what's the final build tally?

 

[denhabr]

February 2010 - Update 6 ... DONE!

It's DONE

...and it's home!

Paid the final fabrication bill and drove it home this afternoon! What a hoot! All kinds of new rattles, vibrations and shudders like never before, but I guess that comes with the package, no? But it looks and drives great. Tracks straight down the road, with no wander, no excessive body roll or pitching during braking, just nice and straight! All the 'bad' is gone and and it seems to perform very well.

The only safety issue is the ABS braking reaction...especially when it gets down to below 5 mpg...

I reset the PSOM before departing the fab shop, and off I went. Drove great...but I am getting a part-throttle tip-in shudder at around 25 mph. Also a drive-shaft or drive-shaft 'whine' while letting off the throttle at speed. Highway driving at 65 is effortless...if not a bit noisy (hell...it hasn't been driving for any length of time for 11 freakin' months!)

So, all in all, I can't be more pleased with the outcome. The fabricators did a great job...following my instructions to the letter (e.g., "Take your time and do it right...the first time!") and met all my expectations to the letter.

Got it 95% of the way home...but had to run it through the car wash before taking it ALL the way home. Washed off 11 months of dust and grease, and when I finally got it home, it got the the attention of all the neighbors!

Will update the pricing and costing elements tomorrow.

Can't wait to take it up the canyon and over to the west desert for a shake-down run!

P.S: Thanks to all of the "pros" out there for all their advice and guidance over the last year! it has been greatly appreciated!!!

Pics below:

My fabricators to the left and right (Dustin Francis on the left, and the project lead, Josh Smario on the right) Thanks guys!!!!

 

[denhabr]

Update...

I got it smogged checked without issue...if you can call driving around ~ 250 extra miles to rerun the OBDII drive cycle three times...in order for it to clear an extra two fault code so I could get it checked!

Actually, when I got it back in to the shop, it had cleared all four of the remaining "Not Ready" codes, and passed like it was brand new. Shaun and Terry at Terry's Towing in Sandy were very patient and helped out a lot.

Other items now on my punch list include:

• ABS Brake Issues: I now have a low speed (< 10 mph) pull to the left, followed by a collapsing pedal, and the ABS pump coming on...most likely due to the new ABS sensor the local shop put in...or the other front sensor is now jacked up.
• Rear Driveshaft: The rear shaft is making a LOT of noise. I have an appointment on Monday to get it removed and rebuilt. Planning to use Spicer 1350 U-joints in the double-cardan and rear joint, with Zerk fittings in the caps so I can keep it lubed on my schedule. May also ask them to install a Zerk fitting in the slip joint along with a new rubber dust boot.
• Powder Coating: The F&R bumpers are rusting so bad you can hear it! I have to get some quotes here locally and get them done before they turn orange all over!
• Exterior Detailing: Something I never got to before it hit the fab shop...a good exterior detailing and the application of a few sponsor decals (Broncospeed, GoFastBroncos.com, Autofab, IBM, etc...)
• Interior Tweaks: Including detailing of the dash, stopping a boat load of squeaks and rattles, fixing some dashboard lighting that isn't working, getting some HVAC controls that are totally inop (drove home in the rain last week and the windows fogged up REAL bad!), Mastercraft harness installation, yada yada...

Next up, the recap of the overall build cost!

 

[denhabr]

The Bill...

Here is what it came to:

1. F Autofab 16" dual 2.5" SAW Suspension.............................$3,100
- freight..................................................................................$150
- installation labor............................................ .......................$3,825
- 4 x SAW 2.5" RaceRunner w/ reservoirs ($349/ea).......................$1,396

2. F Suspension Mods:
- TTB front gusset, materials & labor.........................................$425
- Cross-member gusseting, materials & labor................................$170
- Hub rebuild kits, materials & labor............................................$ 130
- Mods to engine bay, labor............................................. ........$225
- Extended brake lines (2)............................................... ..........$64
- Alignment & brake bleeding, labor............................................$ 130
- ABS Sensors & safety inspection, materials & labor.....................$350
- 4.56:1 r&p, install kit, carrier........................................... ......$317

3. R Autofab 18" 2.5" SAW Suspension..................................$2,100
- freight........................................... ....................................$150
- installation labor............................................. ...................$1,360
- 2 x SAW 2.5" RaceRunner w/ reservoirs ($349/ea)......................$698
- Ford spring shackles.......................................... ....................$43

4. R Suspension Mods:
- Extended brake line.............................................. .................$38
- 8.8 axle trussing, labor & materials......................................... $190
- 4.56:1 r&p, install kit, shipping.......................................... .....$253
- Eaton TrueTrac Differential...................................... .............$400
- Ford Motorsport Aluminum 8.8 Diff Cover..................................$190
- Yukon 31-spline axles, seals, bearings, wheel studs....................$190

5. F Prerunner Bumper, 1.75", .090" wall DOM, materials & fab.....$888

6. R prerunner Bumper, 1.75", .090" wall DOM, materials & fab.....$670
- Incl: license plate tab, light, hitch plug

7. Safety Cage, 1.75", .120" wall DOM, materials & fab...............$3,915

8. Mastercraft Seats, 4 x "Originals"......................................$ 1,400
- Installation...................................... ....................................$85
- Sliders (2)............................................... ............................$70
- Slider adapters to fit tubing............................................ ........$60
- Mastercraft restraints (4)............................................... ......$450
- Restraint installation/fab............................................... .........$85

9. Off Road Lights: 2 x Hella 4000, Euro Beam.............................$216
- Wiring harness........................................... .........................$59

10. Tires: 4 x Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armors, 35x12.5-15..........$808
- Includes mounting & balancing, valves
- Wheel polishing (4)............................................... ..............$111

11. Other Mods/Enhancements:
- Advanced Air Cleaner Systems air filter (#Super Flow)................$295
- Install E4OD deep pan & cross member relo, labor......................$425
- Modify engine intake & MAF sensor, labor.................................$340
- Exhaust rerouting......................................... .......................$225

12. Misc. parts & fasteners, shop supplies.............................$850

13. Misc fluids: ATF, F&R diff fluids, brake, etc...........................$100

TOTAL........................................................... ~ $20,200

 

[turbohaulic]

looks great! I'm not much of a ford guy but that turned out damn nice I wish I could spend 20 G's on something

 

[waynehartwig]

Looking good!! Well, the rig, not the bill!

 

[denhabr]

Costs & Budget...

Looking good!! Well, the rig, not the bill!

Wayne...thanks...but hey, but you had a part in helping me keep the costs down with the purchase of the r&p, install kits, TrueTrac, and 8.8 axles from your store!

Actually it was right about what I had budgeted for!

I've taken my plans into other fabricators and they all said, "Oh, this is a $50,000-$75,000+ project...at least, blah blah blah..." And when I heard that nonsense, I moved on, until I found the guys that could maintain the budget as I had planned...and still build it to my specifications.

So, all in all, I have a capable year-round, all-weather off-road vehicle and play toy that can haul everyone in comfort anywhere I want, and even tow stuff...for about $23,700 (which includes the cost of the Bronco, which I paid $3,500 for in October of 2008.)

I'm happy!

 

[denhabr]

Rear Driveshaft Issues...

Not sure if it was the missing axle wedge, but the additional lift really brought out the gremlins in the rear drive shaft. There were a LOT of drive-line noise issues, and the vibration and shuddering from the entire rear drive-line was driving me nuts.

So...as I mentioned earlier, I took the Bronco down to Gaylon's Drivelines, and saw John (thanks to all for the referral!) I asked John to upgrade the entire rear drive shaft to a fully rebuilt and rebalanced condition...and he installed new greasable Spicer 1350 u-joints in the double cardan, and a greasable Spicer 1410 u-joint just in front of the diff.

John also installed a Zerk fitting to allow me to grease the telescoping section of the drive shaft, and he sealed the telescoping portion with a new seal.

John also said I did not need a spring wedge (stock Broncos have one between the spring pack and axle pad)...unless I experienced further vibration issues (which I currently do not.) If I do, he said to bring it back and he will install a ~ 3-degree wedge. John finally said that the drive shaft is equivalent to what a Powerstroke diesel has...regardless, it's pretty stout for a Bronco.

See pics...

 

[_Auzzy_]

I would definently recommend putting a shim in there or re-doing your perches and make the axle point towards your t-cases yoke more so the gap betweend the splined end of you shaft doesn't smack the other yoke. also helps with vibes. least thats what i have always been told with highangle drvielines. never had a problem when I set them up like that. looks dang good though! lot better than me n my buds beater bronco! I'll have to post some pics up of that redneck p.o.s. lol great job man!

p.S. can you smell that grease burnen on your exhaust lol gotta love it

 

[neagtea]

Te rear joint needs to run within 3 degrees of the drive shaft angle. I will post a pic later of a proper cv shaft install.

 

[denhabr]

July 2010 Update 1

All,

It's been awhile since my last update as my work various travels have kept me busy...so my time has been limited in getting my project updates here into RME (as well as Broncospeed.com and GoFastBroncos.com) However, this reply and the next will show you what I've been up to over the last few months:

• Major: Powder coating the bumpers, spare tire carrier, and receiver hitch
• Minor: Fixing a vacuum leak on the intake tube
• Minor: Cleaning the radiator fins and repairing a headlight bezel/surround

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I would definitely recommend putting a shim in there or re-doing your perches and make the axle point towards your t-cases yoke more so the gap between the splined end of you shaft doesn't smack the other yoke. also helps with vibes. least that's what i have always been told with high-angle drivelines. never had a problem when I set them up like that. looks dang good though! lot better than me n my buds beater bronco! I'll have to post some pics up of that redneck p.o.s. lol great job man!

p.S. can you smell that grease burnen on your exhaust lol gotta love it

YJ_Auzzy...Thanks for the suggestion and kind words. The vibration is pretty much cleared up, but I still notice some light buzzing from the back at highway speeds. May have to go back and visit Gaylon's here later this summer.

And yes...the smell from the burning u-joint grease (on the muffler) is an intoxicating aroma!

Te rear joint needs to run within 3 degrees of the drive shaft angle. I will post a pic later of a proper cv shaft install.

neagtea...thanks for the feedback and yes please, do post the picture if you have it. John said that if I still have some vibration to bring it in and they can apply the 3 degree wedge.

 

[denhabr]

July 2010 Update 2 - Powdercoating Complete!

Got the rusty F&R custom fab'd bumpers, OEM spare tire carrier, and aftermarket receiver hitch all removed, sand-blasted and powder coated at the end of June. Got them all back on (a lot harder to bolt back on than it was to take them off!) back on July 2...just before a week of family vacation in Florida.

The powder coat was performed by Keith @ AAA Metals Finishing, Inc. located at 1578 S 300 W, SLC, 84115 (PH: 801-485-9385). They've done previous work for me, and they do nice work for great prices. I selected "Silver Vein" as the color. It is a textured 'hammertone' silver and black finish that also has a second clear coat applied. Keith had it in stock, so it saved me from buying more powder!

All 7 pieces sandblasted and coated (silver vein and clear gloss) cost me $373.97.

Pics attached...

 

[Greg]

Looks good, thanks for the update! So when are we going to see some video of this thing haulin' ass thru the desert?

 

[denhabr]

May 2014 Update 3 (ok, so nearly FOUR years later...)

Well, it's been a long time since I've updated this thread here on RME4x4. My apologies. I've been keeping my other two build threads pretty well updated on FullSizeBroncos.com (Broncospeed Sub-Forum), and GoFastBroncos.com (Big Broncos Sub Forum)...

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=146007
http://www.gofastbroncos.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=239

So I thought I'd do a quick (?) follow-up here and get THIS thread updated with some of the latest activities since the July 2010 time frame.

In somewhat random order...

1. The Bronco is, and has been, on the road since it came out of Dustin Francis' dp custom fab shop (https://www.facebook.com/pages/DP-Custom-Fab/112803558799641) when he teamed up with Josh Smario's Ojive Industries. Dustin's shop is up in Centerville.
2. It's been running perfect, virtually, since I bought it...and after a quick "SixLitre tune-up" (Accel coil, FMS 9mm plug wires, plain old Autolite plugs gapped at .055", new Motorcraft/BWD cap & rotor, and a timing advance to 14 BTDC...), it's been even better.
3. A new Ford in-tank fuel pump solved some lean conditions ("lean condition, left and right bank" OBD-II error codes), and new tone rings on the F hubs solved the ABS shudder when coming to a stop...both repaired at LHM Ford, Sandy (formerly Butterfield Ford.)
4. I've passed ALL my Utah State emissions checks without fail...especially after the aforementioned tune-up. Always go to Terry's Towing & Repair there in sandy for my smog checks every Thanksgiving. They've been courteous, and professional, and I will continue to patronize them without fail (http://www.yelp.com/biz/terrys-towing-and-auto-repair-sandy)
5. Had Air Vision Utah (http://www.avtruck.net/), a big rig detailing firm out of WVC perform a complete frame pressure/acid wash, and repaint the entire frame and undercarriage (all the darker metal pieces like the frame rails, frame cross members, tank skid plate, F&R rear axle, F&R trailing arms, etc.) a nice gloss black. It's what they do to the big rig trucks they detail daily, and it looks great...and there is no more Orange undercoat under my Bronco any more!
6. Installed a rear facing amber dust light, work performed by Joe Housley over at Add It to Your Toy in Sandy, who also rewired some of the front Hella lighting for me
7. Had The Seat Cover Company (https://www.facebook.com/SeatCoverCompany) there in Murray install a completely new interior for me just this last March. All the floor holes sealed (where the safety cage went through floor cleaned, sealed, and rust-prevention coated with bed-liner; soundproofed/thermally insulated; fully carpeted; safety cage fully covered with matching blue padded material; and a new headliner! The Seat Cover Company (Scott Platts and crew) did a great job, exactly to specification. Turned out gorgeous...and OH SO QUIET NOW! Holy cow, I can actually hear the radio without having to turn it up to 50% volume!
8. Have my Bassani #50150BC 'Equa-Length' Shorty headers in my possession, but haven't had them installed yet...
9. Also, have the parts for a dual remote oil filter system, and will probably have Joe Housley (AI2YT) do that and the Bassani headers at the same time.

So, that's where it stands. I have usually have it tucked away during the winter months, but drive it all over the place (AmFork Canyon and 5-Mile Pass trail rides with Helipilot2, rockwell, and others...) in the summer (...as well as out to the desert for BOR Racing events.) Am planning to take it up and above Fruit Heights on the Francis Peak Road to visit the impact site memorial of United Airlines DC-8 crash that took place back in December of 1975 (UA Flight 2860) up on Ed's Peak (http://www.geocaching.com/geocache/GC2H8YB_memorial-to-united-flight-2860) once the snow clears.

Appreciate any suggestions, comments, and thoughts!



Also, anyone have a good recommendation for a performance-oriented transmission shop here along the Wasatch Front? For a possible rebuild of my E4OD transmission? Anyone know/recommend J&G Transmissions in Murray?

Thanks!

 

[phatfoto]

Can't help with the trans shops, but this is an awesome rig! Just glad *I* don't have to detail it and vacuum after a trip to the desert!!! The wrapped tubing must be a bear to clean up!

 

[bryson]

I've used J&G Trans for several transmissions and always had great results. They are good people.

If you don't mind me asking, what did the frame acid wash/coating run? I've been wanting to do something like this for a while.

I like the dust light too... Any pics of how it's mounted?

 

[rholbrook]

Lodder's in Bountiful. Scott there is a helluva tranny guy. He knows those trannys inside and out.

 

[denhabr]

Can't help with the trans shops, but this is an awesome rig! Just glad *I* don't have to detail it and vacuum after a trip to the desert!!! The wrapped tubing must be a bear to clean up!

Phatfoto...thanks for the comments...and my full 17+ months later response (mea culpa.)

Well, that's just it, I don't have to do a lot of clean up now that the floor is fill sealed, and all the windows work as designed (nice tight fit...no leaks.) Sure, a quick vacuum of the floor is required every once in while...and there is some dust that gets on the dash and surrounds, but a quick wipe down with a damp cloth/baby wipe, followed by a low-shine ArmorAll wipe, and it's back to like new.