I would like to weld my sons Dana 44 tubes to the center. I have read so many different opions I don't know what to think. Is the center cast iron or cast steel? Do you want to weld these with a mig or stick welder? What rod or wire? Do you stitch weld from side to side or just weld around them? Do you have to worry about them warping? I hope somebody that has done a bunch of these can give me some advise. Thanks
Welding Axle Tubes
- Thread starter elk6x6
- Start date
Good question.
Best person would be a metallurgy engineer.
Cast material varies..
Inner Cs & pitmam arms are different material like outer knuckles and cast centers
Artec and synergy ___
install manuals have weld recommendations for cast
Post heat. Preheat. Needle scale shot peen.
TIG stainless.
Stick weld High nickel Utectic rods.
How are people installimg GM 14b shave kits?
So many options
No one ever wants to be responsible.
Best person would be a metallurgy engineer.
Cast material varies..
Inner Cs & pitmam arms are different material like outer knuckles and cast centers
Artec and synergy ___
install manuals have weld recommendations for cast
Post heat. Preheat. Needle scale shot peen.
TIG stainless.
Stick weld High nickel Utectic rods.
How are people installimg GM 14b shave kits?
So many options
No one ever wants to be responsible.
I used 7018 stick rod once and it worked just fine. I would recommend using stick over mig unless you have a full sized 230v mig welder (not a small 230v one). Clean out the crack really well with a cutoff wheel or something so it's shiney metal and do a little test section and see if it cracks as it's cooling down to ambient temp, If not it's probably fine. If I did it again I'd might tig it with 309L stainless filler tho.
STAG
On my grind
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
On my D60 all I did was stand it up on one end of the C, cleaned it up really well with a wire-cup on a grinder, cleaned it with (non chlorinated) brake parts cleaner, let the BPC evaporate and then cranked up my mig welder pretty hot and went around in a hot, single pass weld. (Not stitches, full circumference) and wrapped a welding blanket around it then another blanket to let it cool slowly, then flipped it on the other end and repeated.
seemed to work well for me, not saying it was exactly the right way to do it though. But it didn't warp my axle and the weld didn't crack.
oh yeah and ER70S-6 is what I used, .035" because that's all I had.
seemed to work well for me, not saying it was exactly the right way to do it though. But it didn't warp my axle and the weld didn't crack.
oh yeah and ER70S-6 is what I used, .035" because that's all I had.
- Location
- farmington
I have used 7018 also on the scout 44's and jeep 20's.
I have also cranked up my mig and hit some 60's with no issues
Clean until it shines with a wire wheel and or flap wheel
But you never know.......
I have also cranked up my mig and hit some 60's with no issues
Clean until it shines with a wire wheel and or flap wheel
But you never know.......
UNSTUCK
But stuck more often.
I have done it a few different ways, and depending on what equipment you have will determine what you can do.
IMO, the best way to weld it would be to use a stick or tig welder with high-nickle rod. This rod is very expensive, but worth the peace of mind. It should always be preheated and slow cooled. It should be cleaned very well before and once cleaned, start heating it. The heating will pull all the old oil and dirt from the very porous cast material.
If you don't have stick or tig, you can use mig. The trick with mig is the cooling process. Cast cools much faster then the mig filler. As the cast cools and shrinks, it pulls away from the filler causing the cracks that are pretty common. So in this case, heat the part up just hot enough so that your spit will sizzle (it stinks bad) then you are ready to weld. Weld around the tube in one shot and wrap it up with what ever you have and as much of it as you have nice and tight. Dont want any cooler air getting in there. It should still be warm hours later. Then do the other side.
The interesting thing is that if you ever buy any Ballistic Fab axle parts, they say just to use mig, and that that's all they ever use. I migged their dana 60 truss with mig one time and it has held up to major abuse just fine. I used high nickle rod for their 14 bolt shave kit. That has also held up great.
I think in our world of use, you have to remember, there are no guarantees.
IMO, the best way to weld it would be to use a stick or tig welder with high-nickle rod. This rod is very expensive, but worth the peace of mind. It should always be preheated and slow cooled. It should be cleaned very well before and once cleaned, start heating it. The heating will pull all the old oil and dirt from the very porous cast material.
If you don't have stick or tig, you can use mig. The trick with mig is the cooling process. Cast cools much faster then the mig filler. As the cast cools and shrinks, it pulls away from the filler causing the cracks that are pretty common. So in this case, heat the part up just hot enough so that your spit will sizzle (it stinks bad) then you are ready to weld. Weld around the tube in one shot and wrap it up with what ever you have and as much of it as you have nice and tight. Dont want any cooler air getting in there. It should still be warm hours later. Then do the other side.
The interesting thing is that if you ever buy any Ballistic Fab axle parts, they say just to use mig, and that that's all they ever use. I migged their dana 60 truss with mig one time and it has held up to major abuse just fine. I used high nickle rod for their 14 bolt shave kit. That has also held up great.
I think in our world of use, you have to remember, there are no guarantees.
Last edited:
flexyfool
GDW
- Location
- Boise, Idaho
Has anyone seen a dana spin a tube? The only failure type I have seen, in this area, is cracking due to jumping or major highway accident.
- Location
- Draper, UT
I'll offer up my welder and a means to pre-heat (BIG weed burner) but I have no welding blanket.
I think HF has some for cheap though.
Oh yeah, the welder is a MM-252 that tops out at 300A so I think we're good
I think HF has some for cheap though.
Oh yeah, the welder is a MM-252 that tops out at 300A so I think we're good
TEAM FRED
Registered User
- Location
- Centerville
7018 has worked for me.
flexyfool
GDW
- Location
- Boise, Idaho
So you may be doing more harm than good welding the tube to the center. Just a thought. I don't know for sure.
skiboarder
SkiBoarder
- Location
- No Ogden
- Location
- West Jordan
If it leaks, it has likely already spun...