• DCRC 2024

22RE to 3RZ swap

R

rockdog

Guest
Are you planning to change the whole harness? The ones in the trucks changed from year to year. I had to pull the whole harness out of the 85 and put it into the 88. They aren't the same. It's a big job. You have to pull the dash completely apart, everything. Where the motor is coming out of a car, how do you do that? Standalone harness for the motor? I did that with the 5.0 ford I put in my truck, but the fords are easy to do that with.
 
Kevin B.

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Vehicular limbo
rockdog said:
Are you planning to change the whole harness? The ones in the trucks changed from year to year. I had to pull the whole harness out of the 85 and put it into the 88. They aren't the same. It's a big job. You have to pull the dash completely apart, everything. Where the motor is coming out of a car, how do you do that? Standalone harness for the motor? I did that with the 5.0 ford I put in my truck, but the fords are easy to do that with.
Click to expand...

The harness is black magic to me, I have no idea to be honest. I'll be relying on a couple friends with experience to walk me through that part. My naive assumption is that I'll use the engine harness as it sits and use parts of the dash harness from each truck to make a frankenharness that'll plug into the ECU. I'm planning on keeping the stock dash and cluster, so other than the feedback from the engine harness, I'm not even sure what inputs and outputs I'll need. I assume I'll need to find a way to feed RPM signal to the ECU, but after that I don't know what it's going to want to see that doesn't come from the engine harness? Need to look at those books.
 
R

rockdog

Guest
Wow, I hope your friends are good with wiring. (And patient) The signals from the different sensors probably won't feed your gauges in the dash the right feedback. The harness is a HUGE glob of wires that is all tied together. It will pull through the firewall back into the cab from each side. I'm not trying to discourage you. I just want you to be prepared for what your going to be dealing with. I've found putting the motor in is a cakewalk compared to getting the wiring right and all the sensors working. But electrical magic is just a mystery to me.
 
Kevin B.

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Vehicular limbo
Bearings are all good. They look like this motor has run about 5 minutes, in fact. I'm checking the valves now, and if they look new too I think I'll play it safe and run a break-in procedure on this motor when I finally get it installed. If the weather cooperates, I'll start pulling the 22RE tomorrow.

Got some little goodies from LCE today, a valve shim tool and some assorted studs and flywheel bolts. Amazon stuff (Aisin clutch kit, spark plugs, some other stuff) is in the mail. I need to call Camelback Toyota on Monday to verify some part numbers and then I'll have some stuff on the way from them too.

I'm still trying to determine if I have the correct ECU - the guy at the parts counter gave me a blank look when I asked him to run the serial number on the block and tell me what year truck it came out of. Anybody know how to run that serial number?
 
Last edited:
Spork

Spork

Tin Foil Hat Equipped
Location
Saratoga Springs, UT
Kevin B. said:
I've heard they tend to do that. Doesn't the miniheader have the same dimensions as the earlier manifold? I was planning on that being the case, but if they're different I'll have to rethink.
Click to expand...

I'm still running the stock manifold on mine. (knock on wood). Mine is a 97 and has the dual coil packs and no distributor.
 
Kevin B.

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Vehicular limbo
Nine fiddy for the motor already converted to rear sump, the bellhousing, the harnesses, the ECU, some other bits.
 
Kevin B.

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Vehicular limbo
I'm glad I checked them, ending up finding several valves out of spec. I've seen some folks asking about how hard valve jobs are on the 5VZ and 3RZ, so I'll get some pics of the process as I fix them.
 
Kevin B.

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Vehicular limbo
Took advantage of a break in the weather, the old motor is out. Thanks for the help, AJ. Going to get started on the valve job tomorrow, because it's supposed to rain again and I can do that in the relative warmth of my garage.

Here's a pic of an empty filthy engine bay, because Troy likes pics.

20140211_113124_zpsd4ba67e3.jpg


How close can I run a fuel line to the exhaust?
 
clfrnacwby

clfrnacwby

Recovery Addict
Location
NV
I read this for the articles, not the pics...;)

For the fuel lines, a minimum distance of 5" to exhaust piping for anything electrical or fuel related is highly recommended. 3-5" requires heat shielding. Closer than 3" is utter craziness...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top