22RE to 3RZ swap
- Thread starter Kevin B.
- Start date
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
awesome. Making great progress kev.
TJDukit
I.Y.A.A.Y.A.S.
- Location
- Clearfield
Looking great.
- Location
- Vehicular limbo
Thanks for the help, Bret. I love your welder and I want one.
- Location
- Vehicular limbo
I'm sure some of these updates are pretty vanilla for a lot of you guys, but this is all new to me and I'm starting to get excited the closer I get to having this done, so I'm gonna tell you all about it. And there's lots of pictures for Troy.
The upper plenum got in a fight with the heater valve - the nipple for the rear heater hose on the valve got in the way, so the rear heat is bypassed. I looped the two lines going to the rear heater so crap wouldn't get in them, and replaced the valve on the firewall with one from a truck without rear heat. I guess I don't need to stress about the rear heat console getting in the way of my (eventual) duals shifter now.
I couldn't use the stock fuel line location, it's just too close to the exhaust. Twentyfive bucks at Hose and Rubber got me some extended length fuel hoses. I heart Hose and Rubber, those guys rock. I cut and flared the hardline down on the frame rail (after practicing on some old fuel line first, so hopefully no leaks there), and ran the extended length hose over the transmission behind the bellhousing. I split some old heater hose and ziptied it anywhere it looks to rub, and I used a bracket from an old AC line and bolted it to the drivers side frame rail. I'll build a bracket to bolt the fuel filter to the drivers fender.
File this one under "Things To Do Before You Put The Motor In The Truck" - when you convert to the T100 oil pan, you need to convert the dipstick and tube as well. The dipstick tube wants to bolt to a captive nut on the engine mount, but if you don't have T100 motor mounts then you don't have a captive nut there to bolt it to. And I gave back the engine hoist I was borrowing. So I had to prop the motor up before pull the mount and drill and tap a hole for that bracket. That would have been a lot easier if I'd known to do that before I put the motor in in the first place...
As an aside, winch plates make great tool benches.
The stock 3RZ radiator hoses will work, but the drivers side needs trimmed and the routing is tight. Again, old hose ziptied in strategic locations will keep it intact.
Clearance between the fan and radiator - not much. And the old fan shroud won't fit over the 3RZ fan, too small. I didn't look to see if the 22RE clutch and fan would bolt up to the 3RZ water pump pulley, but they might. I'll have to get a shroud from a 3RZ truck and see if I can make it work on the stock radiator, and if that doesn't work I'll need a 3RZ radiator. That might be trouble, because I think the later radiator is thicker, and there's no room for thicker here.
Tomorrow the exhaust manifold and intake plenums go on for good, and I'll finish routing the harnesses. Mike The Wiring Wizard and Andrew The Wrenching Warrior are coming over Saturday to help me finish the adapter harness, put together the exhaust... and hopefully turn the key. If there's time, I'll use the guys to help me swap the 4.7 transfer case back in, weld the sliders back on, and wire up the winch. Anybody else who wants to come over and get dirty is welcome, there'll be plenty to do.
The upper plenum got in a fight with the heater valve - the nipple for the rear heater hose on the valve got in the way, so the rear heat is bypassed. I looped the two lines going to the rear heater so crap wouldn't get in them, and replaced the valve on the firewall with one from a truck without rear heat. I guess I don't need to stress about the rear heat console getting in the way of my (eventual) duals shifter now.
I couldn't use the stock fuel line location, it's just too close to the exhaust. Twentyfive bucks at Hose and Rubber got me some extended length fuel hoses. I heart Hose and Rubber, those guys rock. I cut and flared the hardline down on the frame rail (after practicing on some old fuel line first, so hopefully no leaks there), and ran the extended length hose over the transmission behind the bellhousing. I split some old heater hose and ziptied it anywhere it looks to rub, and I used a bracket from an old AC line and bolted it to the drivers side frame rail. I'll build a bracket to bolt the fuel filter to the drivers fender.
File this one under "Things To Do Before You Put The Motor In The Truck" - when you convert to the T100 oil pan, you need to convert the dipstick and tube as well. The dipstick tube wants to bolt to a captive nut on the engine mount, but if you don't have T100 motor mounts then you don't have a captive nut there to bolt it to. And I gave back the engine hoist I was borrowing. So I had to prop the motor up before pull the mount and drill and tap a hole for that bracket. That would have been a lot easier if I'd known to do that before I put the motor in in the first place...
As an aside, winch plates make great tool benches.
The stock 3RZ radiator hoses will work, but the drivers side needs trimmed and the routing is tight. Again, old hose ziptied in strategic locations will keep it intact.
Clearance between the fan and radiator - not much. And the old fan shroud won't fit over the 3RZ fan, too small. I didn't look to see if the 22RE clutch and fan would bolt up to the 3RZ water pump pulley, but they might. I'll have to get a shroud from a 3RZ truck and see if I can make it work on the stock radiator, and if that doesn't work I'll need a 3RZ radiator. That might be trouble, because I think the later radiator is thicker, and there's no room for thicker here.
Tomorrow the exhaust manifold and intake plenums go on for good, and I'll finish routing the harnesses. Mike The Wiring Wizard and Andrew The Wrenching Warrior are coming over Saturday to help me finish the adapter harness, put together the exhaust... and hopefully turn the key. If there's time, I'll use the guys to help me swap the 4.7 transfer case back in, weld the sliders back on, and wire up the winch. Anybody else who wants to come over and get dirty is welcome, there'll be plenty to do.
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TJDukit
I.Y.A.A.Y.A.S.
- Location
- Clearfield
So much vanilla going on there. Love it.
STAG
On my grind
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
Have MikeGyver build you a custom shroud!
- Location
- Vehicular limbo
Nope, it's not cooperating and I'm spending more time with the baby than it in the driveway so it's slow going.
The motor is in, most of the little stuff is wrapped up, but we can't get it to fire. It's throwing codes for the MAF and engine coolant temp sensor, and either of those can interrupt spark and fuel I guess. Not sure if it's bad parts or a bad ECU yet.
I ended up drilling out the holes on the 22re fan clutch to fit the 3vz water pump so I'll keep the stock shroud. I wish I could have had Mike build me a custom header, but I blew my budget months ago!
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Well this smelly yota deal for me is almost worked out, so chop chop I need someone to wheel with
STAG
On my grind
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
Header? I was talking about the fan shroud. I was going to say talk him into sponsoring you to hook him up with one! You wouldn't mind a Cookie Monster tattoo right?
- Location
- Vehicular limbo
Sure, I just meant that if I was going to have awesome MikeGyverfab on my truck, it wouldn't be a fan shroud I could kludge together myself. 
You haven't seen my junk, have you? Nobody wants to sponsor a smelly Toyota with more rust than fender.
You haven't seen my junk, have you? Nobody wants to sponsor a smelly Toyota with more rust than fender.
STAG
On my grind
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
That escalated quickly!
No I have not, but if it's more rust than sheet metal on the outside, and has a super cool drivetrain, isn't that considered a sleeper? Or possibly a rat rod? Both of which are "cool" right now.
- Location
- Vehicular limbo
The MAF code went away. The coolant temp sensor is just a loose plug. The only code left is for the distributor - my wizard tested it out and it's all shorted inside. Got a new one on the way to the tune of $200, and then in theory the truck will start and run and I can start all the little finishing touches. Like wiring in the aux battery -
I knew intellectually that it's a good idea to have a complete donor, but now I know from experience. I won't ever attempt another motor swap without a complete donor, that I can hear run before I pull the motor.
I knew intellectually that it's a good idea to have a complete donor, but now I know from experience. I won't ever attempt another motor swap without a complete donor, that I can hear run before I pull the motor.
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sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
Atta boy Kevin, congrats.