Blower Blazer Build

[Maverick]

I'm building a blazer to blow snow at our cabin. I've used a '91 yj to plow the driveway with varying results the last few years with lots of stucks and dig-outs (the jeep has chained 33's and rear locker). Pic attached of part of the driveway. Approx 20' of snow falls per winter. I gave up on the jeep last winter and used a big walk behind snowblower with better results, though it was a workout. Thought about getting one with tracks.

Owners in the area pay in to keep the main road cleared, then the side roads are extra. I decided to spend my money on equipment rather than pay this extra amount year after year. Plus, it can be used to earn money clearing other side roads for the weekenders (we're just not there to plow early in the morning for the 'rounders).

Additional bonus...if done right, the blazer can be a great expy/moab rig, and/or a rig for my 15yo to wheel in over the late spring/summer/fall. We'll see how this whole thing works this winter and what he wants to do when he turns 16 next summer.

Blower: I started with a killer deal on a Hanson blower with Western Ultramount (attached pic), then needed to find something to mount it to. They are heavy and the literature "requires" a 3/4ton truck. However, everyone here knows that the front ends on 1/2ton and 3/4ton chevy's are the same when it comes to the axle housings. The springs are different. I figured a blazer gives better maneuverability and will be easier to fit in the garage with the blower still attached. If it doesn't work, I'll get a 3/4ton

Rig: I found a sweet '90 Coca-cola white and red blazer with mismatched axles (3.42 front and 3.73 rear) and also found set of '90 3/4 axles (10bolt, sf14). I toyed with picking up a FF14 I saw here with 4.56 and Detroit to match my (forsale) D44 w/ 4.56 and lockright. However, I can see the front axle firmly planted with the weight of the blower and snapping the axle shafts/u-joints. The 10bolt/SF14 will be adequate.

The blazer was super clean inside and out, had a new engine and tranny, and tons of power. No wonder it blew the stock 3.42 10bolt. I was also happy to see the blazer already had the 3 leaf front springs. I spent a morning test driving another lifted blazer, then stopped by and picked up the axles and the Coca-cola Blaze and headed back to the office. 32x11.50 on chrome 6 lug deep-dish rims for sale. Make an offer. Oh ya, 10bolt axles too. Cheap.

Blower, check. Rig, check.

Now for the gizmos to turn these doodads into assets.

Mount: The blower side is a Western Ultramount. The truck side will be a universal mount with bolt on pockets that accept the stingers on the blower side. Western #63900. Just missed the truck side mount on ebay. Gotta keep looking. Cool - went to get the pic of the one I missed, and it was listed again. Click!

Wiring and controls: blower controls will come with the blower, need to get ultramount controls. $$

TAD: I was wanting a locker and hoping for a gov-lock. When I was buying the axles we noticed some old pitting/chips on the spider gears, but the ring/pinion looked great. I figured I'd buy a lockright...and ended up as the only bidder on one on ebay. Check.

Tires: Typical plowing wisdom is skinny snow tires do better than flotation. I believe typical plowing wisdom is based on plowing parking lots and paved surfaces. My mountain snow experience up there is that there is no bottom, only gravel then muddy clay. The jeep would get into crusted snow and bury itself in seconds. So skinny or fat, tall is best...but depends on how much lift I can put on the blazer. Opinions?

Lift: It can't be too high for the mount. Measured the truck last night. 13-15" to where the mount would be. Measured the blower stingers this morning, they could be up to 20" high (super cool adjustable system). So I've got 5-7" to work with. That means 4" of lift and 35-37" tires. Q78-16LT might fit without lift? 315's? I'll be looking for used tires since it will be running chains anyway - but that means no rubbing will be allowed. Looks like up to 4" will work, but stock would work too, if the tires will fit. Rear shackle flip best?

Shocks: who knows...ya, it will need some. Front has double set up...necessary?

U-bolts: ya, I need those. AAA spring?

U-joints: special adapter ones to fit rear SF14 to stock driveshaft. Unknown - is the SF14 pinion longer, requiring the driveshaft to be shortened? Maybe the lift will help? Does the shackle flip move the axle forward a little vs a block?

Stereo: Every rig needs tunes. Thinking ipod based system. An 800w amp like I did in the jeep, a 10" speaker box in the back, speakers in the dash, and 1/8" jack or ipod dock.

Counterweight: Yes, some kind of way to hang a few hundred pounds off the back, or maybe some concrete buckets inside the back.

Chains: Mentioned above and by Hickey. The set I had on the plowjeep fit 33's and may have to be modified for 35's or whatever I end up with.

Tranny cooler and gauge: Excellent suggestion by LT

Brett

 

[Kiel]

this will be cool

 

[Hickey]

Kickass blower. For tires, maybe go with flotation and add chains for more traction. Do whatever you can to balance the weight from front to back. You want all four tires doing equal work with equal traction.

 

[Maverick]

@Kiel:
Stay tuned...

@Hickey:
That's what I'm thinking. Chains are required, which also limits the size of tire I run, from a rubbing standpoint. Gettin' all flexy isn't seen much...until you bury it. BTDT way too many times over the last few years, in the plow jeep, eXcursion and truck.

Speaking of flex, Tacoma raised this issue in another thread:

Lifted Blazers pretty much require crossover. The stock push-pull steering has a draglink about a foot long. Droop the driver's side much and you are turning left no matter what.

I didn't have it on my '74 and didn't really have an issue, though it wasn't locked and had serious frame twist. I had more "disappearing clutch" issues than permanent left turn issues.

I recall a lot of guys in Storm Mountain 4x4 with fullsize chevy's dealing with it though, so I am familiar with the phenomena.

This is a blower rig first, trail rig second. It will even retain the antisway bar (for now). It needs to be tight and stable on the highway. There is a small possibility that I'll ultimately sell it and use the money to buy more of a beater or a pickup.

That said: I've got the stuff to do it on the axle side...kind of (will a D44 flat-top fit on a 10bolt housing?)

 

[LT.]

I think you have a good plan. I might add that the transmissions in those trucks were usually TH 700's and they are a little touchy for durability. I know it sounds crazy but, I might look for either another aux cooler or maybe even a manual tranny. We have toasted a few autos doing some plowing. Perhaps being a blower it may be easier on the tranny. I don't know for sure.

I am curious how this is going to turn out and anxious as well.

LT.

 

[Maverick]

EXCELLENT suggestion!!! Transmission cooler. You can't have too much cooling, and there will likely be a lot of time spent crawling in low when the torque converter won't be locked. Transmission temp gauge too!

Funny, I was thinking about that earlier today as I walked down the access road but didn't think about the cooler aspect.

The tranny was rebuilt, though I need to find out if it was upgraded at all. I don't think there will be the pushing stress of a plow, but there will be lots of forward and reverse though slower, as well as the above mentioned long stretches of what will be basically riding the brakes in 4low.

That makes me think of something else: Depending on the actual blowing speed, a manual with granny and a hand throttle control that can be set might be the ticket. The only downside of that is occasionally there will be snow that may require the infinite slowness of an auto. It will be easy enough to determine - I'll just take the jeep up this winter and follow my son in the blazer as it's blowing and see how slow it goes. Then, if it makes sense and I sell the blazer I'll look for a manual.

I've wanted to build a mild blazer for a few years but had no practical reason (or funds) to pursue it, it just didn't make sense since I already have a jeep and an eXcursion.

 

[Maverick]

Here is the description and the pics from the ad:

1990 full size Blazer 4x4. 5.7l automatic trans W/ overdrive

runs great in good condition. Motor and tranny have been rebuilt. previous owner was coca cola co. so the maintence of the Blazer was on track. just had a new baby so need to sell.

The guy had to choose between selling this and selling his '65 396 Chevelle. I'd have sold the blazer too.

 

[Maverick]

Just got a notice that my offer on the ultramount was accepted. Score!

 

[Hickey]

Nice looking blazer. I didn't experience issues with my blazer's steering, it was lifted 4" on 35's and I had a raised steering arm. I do hear you on the disappearing clutch linkage though.

 

[2INSANE]

I think a 35" tire would be great with micro thread and stud holes. I once rolled with these cheaper Dean SXT tires and had them sipped. They have holes for the optional studs. I never had to throw chains on them.

Goodyear Duratracs are good tires too!

A 4" lift would be perfect for 35" tires on your blaza. Narrow tires with a good 4" front lift spring and a block in rear. Don't do the shackle flip cuz you will need to keep your suspension stiff for the added weight of the plow and possiblly rear weight from salt or sand for the extra traction in the rear. A 1000watt block heater would be a good mod to keep your motor warm and heat the cab faster when starting your plow/blow day.

Lockers front and rear is a no brainer. You might also want heavy duty tow hooks front and rear and a winch for sure. Fog lights, tool box in rear, emergency equip, etc.

I think duel shock in front would help a lot. Sand and salt bags in rear for added weight with a good liner and insulation to keep the water/salt off your floor keep ya warm too. Bus heater would help keep ya warm. Ehh... Trans cooler... I would gauge it first to see if you get hot enough to have that. Remember it's gonna be cold already outside.

Winter wiper blades and the -20* wiper fluid. Maybe a grill cover to keep motor temp up to par.

Maybe duel battery with high output alternator for your added electronics?

Another safety suggestion would be a in-cab rollbar. I can not count how many times I've seen peeps roll over from icy roads.

Ohh yea... Check your steering box where it mounts to frame for cracks. You WILL want to get a steering box brace. www.offroaddesign.com These blazas have a tendacy to crack where the steering box mounts to frame and maybe even pop off the frame. With all that extra weight in front, it will make your box work harder. Perhaps steering stablizers and hydro assist?

 

[Rot Box]

Cool build! Can't wait to see how it turns out

If the 700 ever did blow I'd go with a TH350-400. Manuals and plowing snow make for one very sore knee :sick: That said the 700 should last especially with a big cooler and gauge.

 

[Maverick]

A 4" lift would be perfect for 35" tires on your blaza. Narrow tires with a good 4" front lift spring and a block in rear. Don't do the shackle flip cuz you will need to keep your suspension stiff for the added weight of the plow and possiblly rear weight from salt or sand for the extra traction in the rear. A 1000watt block heater would be a good mod to keep your motor warm and heat the cab faster when starting your plow/blow day.

<good stuff snipped>

Ohh yea... Check your steering box where it mounts to frame for cracks. You WILL want to get a steering box brace. www.offroaddesign.com These blazas have a tendacy to crack where the steering box mounts to frame and maybe even pop off the frame. With all that extra weight in front, it will make your box work harder. Perhaps steering stablizers and hydro assist?

They STILL have the cracking issue??? My '74 did, but I thought they'd have that fixed by '90. What a pain that was to install. Did it when the engine and box were out.

Does the shackle flip make the stock spring softer?

 

[Maverick]

Here's some pics of the road I'll be blowing. The other side roads are similar. The driveway shot is above.

 

[2INSANE]

They STILL have the cracking issue??? My '74 did, but I thought they'd have that fixed by '90. What a pain that was to install. Did it when the engine and box were out.

Does the shackle flip make the stock spring softer?

I know the 80's models has the steering box issues. Not sure about the 90's. You for sure should research that.

The shackle flip gives better flex Ie drop/articulation while using the stock springs and makes it kinda spongie in rear. They are great for off-road but when it comes to towing and adding weight, I think it's best to go with a cheap block or all spring in rear for better stiffness and stability. My truck has a 6" all spring lift. Which I use for hauling, towing etc. And my blaza a diy4x.com shackle flip with 64" springs in rear for off-road performance only.

Yea if your gonna add hundreds of pounds of sand/salt/concrete to the rear for extra traction, doesn't it make sence to keep your rear stable and stiff with a block or hd rear spring?

 

[LT.]

Goodyear Duratracs are good tires too!

Another vote for the Goodyear Duratrac's. The shop I work out of is at 8,500 feet and we get our share of snow. Last few years we did not even chain up once with the Duratrac's. It is unreal how well these tires do in snow / mud.

LT.

 

[Maverick]

It makes sense, I didn't realize the shackle flip made it squishy. This is exactly the kind of info I'm looking for.

 

[Maverick]

Another vote for the Goodyear Duratrac's. The shop I work out of is at 8,500 feet and we get our share of snow. Last few years we did not even chain up once with the Duratrac's. It is unreal how well these tires do in snow / mud.

LT.

How long do the Duratracs last? I was thinking about those for the eXcursion. The BFG AT KO's have been great but I only get 35K miles out of them.

The blaze will be chained up all the time, because at one point without chains it would get stuck and have to be chained up. Best to just leave it that way.

Brett

 

[2INSANE]

Here's a pic of a stock blazer rear suspension.

Now here's a pic of a blazer shackle flip and imagine a fair amount of weight added to the rear.

If too much weight is added, it will put stress on the spring and possibly the spring and spring hanger will hit. Just giving u a good visual. Ever see a pick-up truck or off-road rig towing a heavy load and the azz is dragging bad? That's usually a result of weak springs, shackle flip or springs not designed for heavy loads.

Under much weight you will eventually break your springs from overload, wrap and rubbing.

I checked the Duratrac thread life ratings and peeps are getting between 40,000-50,000 miles on them pending road conditions. Seems like a great tire according to the ratings.

I recommend a superlift front spring. They are usually much stiffer then most other springs on the market. My tuff country 6" front spring has sag and rough country springs have even worse sag over time.

 

[Maverick]

Thanks for the pics and the tire research.

Wow, that last pic appears to be either a poorly designed shackle location or a spring with a LOT of arch totally compressed.

I understand what you are saying about underdesigned/weak springs. That should be avoided. I added an airbag system with surge in my eXcursion for that very reason. (the X came from the factory with too soft springs, practically sitting on the bumpstops, making for a terrible ride). If necessary, I'd add the same system to the blazer.

The coca-cola blazer appears to have an added leaf in the pack. The pack in your pic above also appears to have an added leaf (the 2nd leaf) or is that the factory 2nd leaf?

I'm thinking the biggest difference in the shackle flip is twofold: 1) putting the shackle in tension vs compression (and the various resulting angles and forces), and 2) the increase in verticle distance between the axlepad and the shackle frame mount, which puts several times the leverage on the shackle from side loading. (easier to explain with a sketch on paper)

I don't see a lot of difference in the actual leaf spring pack stress in static, vertical loading, but lots more in side loading. Bottom line, as you say, probably not the best application for a blower rig. An add-a-leaf and mild block might be best, bags if necessary to deal with ballast.

I figured the shackle flip would help avoid the spring wrap associated with blocks, but the side effects are what I wanted to hear about.

 

[2INSANE]

Good luck on your build and keep us posted. It's nice to see another blazer owner here!