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Jeep Cheap Cherokee Build

RockMonkey

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
I've been busy! Unfortunately I've been busy installing lights in the garage and parting out a truck. Haven't had much of a chance to do anything on the Cherokee. I did manage to weld up all the DIY beadlocks today. Hopefully I'll get them painted and mounted tomorrow. Then I'll start stripping and building the axles.
 
RockMonkey

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
So tomorrow turned out the be a week from tomorrow... Anyway I got these mounted today. I had a little help. :) The next step is to build the axles, then I'll start actually tearing the Cherokee apart.

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I Lean

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
RockMonkey said:
I'm sticking with the 44 and 9". Going with the one ton axles fundamentally changes the build too much. I'll save them for the project I really want to build. ;)
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A 9"!?!?! That's a ridiculous choice of axles, I'd never use something like that. -_-


Thanks! He kinda had a fight with a box of markers before he came outside to help...
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Who won? :confused:
 
RockMonkey

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
Finally, an update!

I'm waiting for a couple small parts to finish up my rear disk brake conversion, but the axles are pretty much ready to go. I'm using a high-pinion Dana 44 front with a lock-right and 4.88 gears, and a Ford 9 inch rear axle with a Detroit and 4.86 gears. The lockers and gears are installed in both axles, and both have been wire wheeled down and prepped for suspension bracketry.

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RockMonkey

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
Today's progress:

So today started like this:

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And ended like this:

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More details in a minute, gotta go give my helper a bath:

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chadschoon

chadschoon

Well-Known Member
Location
lehi
RockMonkey said:
Finally, an update!

I'm waiting for a couple small parts to finish up my rear disk brake conversion, but the axles are pretty much ready to go. I'm using a high-pinion Dana 44 front with a lock-right and 4.88 gears, and a Ford 9 inch rear axle with a Detroit and 4.86 gears. The lockers and gears are installed in both axles, and both have been wire wheeled down and prepped for suspension bracketry.

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:) will you come clean my garage :)
 
RockMonkey

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
chadschoon said:
:) will you come clean my garage :)
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Ha! No. I can't wait until I finish this build so I can clean mine though. It's filthy right now! Stupid Cherokee's getting oil spots all over the floor. :mad:


Meat_ said:
Did I miss where you said what you did for rotors on the 9?
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Sorta, it's in the disk brake thread. I went with 44 front rotors, but they turned out to be just a little too thick for the calipers with new pads to fit on. I'll probably go have them turned somewhere. I also need a pair of horseshoe shaped bearing retainers to make it all work.


Herzog said:
Finally is right! I've been waiting to see more of this in progress. :D
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I've been waiting to make more progress!
 
M

Meat_

Banned
Location
Lehi
RockMonkey said:
Sorta, it's in the disk brake thread. I went with 44 front rotors, but they turned out to be just a little too thick for the calipers with new pads to fit on. I'll probably go have them turned somewhere. I also need a pair of horseshoe shaped bearing retainers to make it all work.
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Ah. Good eye, it will be easier to find a place that can turn down a rotor than it will be to find a place that can make the center hole bigger.
 
RockMonkey

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
Some details:

I got the rear axle, exhaust, and suspension all out of the way and stuck the 9" under there to see how it fits in relation to the gas tank and wheel-wells.

I can move the axle a little bit back from stock without moving the gas tank:

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I want to get it to close to 110" wheelbase, and I want to maximize departure angle, so I started looking at how I could easily move the axle back a few more inches. I don't want to move the tank up through the floor at this point, but it looks like I can move the tank back 3-4 inches easily.

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So I took the tank off and found there is a little "saddle" under the floor that the tank rests in. In order to move it back I will have to cut off the back part of this saddle and weld back in a filler piece that doesn't drop down. That's a bad description, so it's a good thing I took a pic:

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Next time I get a chance to work on it I'll cut down the back of that saddle and rework the tank so it mounts all the way back.
 

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RockMonkey

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
Meat_ said:
Ah. Good eye, it will be easier to find a place that can turn down a rotor than it will be to find a place that can make the center hole bigger.
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I knew the Ford rotor was thicker than the Chevy rotor that normally goes with my Chevy caliper, but I was hoping it would fit. Oh well, getting the rotors turned should be cheap.
 
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