Rot Box
Diesel and Dust
- Location
- Smithfield Utah
The nice part about these behemoths is what they lack in suspension flex they more than make up for it in frame flex
Considering a 2006 F350 Crew Cab
- Thread starter sawtooth4x4
- Start date
The nice part about these behemoths is what they lack in suspension flex they more than make up for it in frame flex
sawtooth4x4
Totally Awesome
- Location
- Land of East Laytonshire
I'm surprised by how little the frame flexes on this truck.
Seems like the older ones I drove in the oil field had a lot more frame twist then this one.
I'm thinking about removing the overload leaves and putting in an air bag system for heavy towing. Then maybe the rear would flex more.
I'm putting ideas together. Not sure what direction to take yet.
Seems like the older ones I drove in the oil field had a lot more frame twist then this one.
I'm thinking about removing the overload leaves and putting in an air bag system for heavy towing. Then maybe the rear would flex more.
I'm putting ideas together. Not sure what direction to take yet.
sawtooth4x4
Totally Awesome
- Location
- Land of East Laytonshire
My fuel pressure regulator went out. My truck stalled and died on I 15 near Bountiful. My check engine light came on and was able to pull a code for the FPR.
Found one on eBay. An updated Motorcraft FPR for $130 shipped
I installed it yesterday. It was a pain buried under the turbo on the back of the engine.
To remove it you either need to buy a special tool ($100) or make your own. $16 for a 35mm axle nut socket and cut open a slot for the electrical connector.
A couple pictures.
About two hours later it was all done. What a pain.
Found one on eBay. An updated Motorcraft FPR for $130 shipped
I installed it yesterday. It was a pain buried under the turbo on the back of the engine.
To remove it you either need to buy a special tool ($100) or make your own. $16 for a 35mm axle nut socket and cut open a slot for the electrical connector.
A couple pictures.
About two hours later it was all done. What a pain.
sawtooth4x4
Totally Awesome
- Location
- Land of East Laytonshire
Here is a picture of my 35mm socket, wobbly, extension and ratchet.
sawtooth4x4
Totally Awesome
- Location
- Land of East Laytonshire
Oh yeah. I had to tow it home behind my land Rover. Talk about embarrassing for the Ford.
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
sawtooth4x4
Totally Awesome
- Location
- Land of East Laytonshire
Haven't been doing much with my truck. its mostly sitting on the driveway as I give love to the Land Rover.
Its been having hot start issues. I took it to a shop next to where I live called Shade Tree Mechanics. Little did I know they are known as Shady Tree Mechanics in the hood. They apparently have screwed over a lot of people in my neighborhood with bad diagnosis. They tried to tell me my High Pressure Oil Pump was failing. Which if you research it on forums, almost never fixes the hot start issue. They said they tested the oil pressure and checked for leaks. Funny how my ICP sensor was not touched, the item you have to remove to air test the system.
After researching it more yesterday, I found out there are these things called dummy plugs in the heads, in the fuel rail. the o-rings are known to fail and fall apart. Which is probably what was on the screen of my IPR (injection Control Regulator). I pulled the driverside first. It didn't look to bad. But the o-rings were definitely deformed. But it had been replaced before, since it was the updated style with a 12mm hex head.
Then I took off the valve cover from the driverside and pulled the dummy plug from it. The o-rings are almost gone. And its the original old style with a 10mm hex head.
So this morning I called up Napa, and for $35 I can fix this issue.
Still need to remove the turbo and replace the o-rings on the high pressure oil lines to the injectors. that takes some time but the parts are pretty cheap at $45.
Then I need to replace the water with some good coolant before winter hits. Then the truck should be back in action.
Its been having hot start issues. I took it to a shop next to where I live called Shade Tree Mechanics. Little did I know they are known as Shady Tree Mechanics in the hood. They apparently have screwed over a lot of people in my neighborhood with bad diagnosis. They tried to tell me my High Pressure Oil Pump was failing. Which if you research it on forums, almost never fixes the hot start issue. They said they tested the oil pressure and checked for leaks. Funny how my ICP sensor was not touched, the item you have to remove to air test the system.
After researching it more yesterday, I found out there are these things called dummy plugs in the heads, in the fuel rail. the o-rings are known to fail and fall apart. Which is probably what was on the screen of my IPR (injection Control Regulator). I pulled the driverside first. It didn't look to bad. But the o-rings were definitely deformed. But it had been replaced before, since it was the updated style with a 12mm hex head.
Then I took off the valve cover from the driverside and pulled the dummy plug from it. The o-rings are almost gone. And its the original old style with a 10mm hex head.
So this morning I called up Napa, and for $35 I can fix this issue.
Still need to remove the turbo and replace the o-rings on the high pressure oil lines to the injectors. that takes some time but the parts are pretty cheap at $45.
Then I need to replace the water with some good coolant before winter hits. Then the truck should be back in action.
sawtooth4x4
Totally Awesome
- Location
- Land of East Laytonshire
sawtooth4x4
Totally Awesome
- Location
- Land of East Laytonshire
Well, its been sitting on the driveway being neglected. Leaking oil all over. So I finally got all the parts to make it right.
NEW:
EGR Cooler (bullet proof)
Oil Cooler
Stand Pipes
Dummy Plugs
STC Fittings for HPOP
NEW:
EGR Cooler (bullet proof)
Oil Cooler
Stand Pipes
Dummy Plugs
STC Fittings for HPOP
sawtooth4x4
Totally Awesome
- Location
- Land of East Laytonshire
sawtooth4x4
Totally Awesome
- Location
- Land of East Laytonshire
sawtooth4x4
Totally Awesome
- Location
- Land of East Laytonshire
So a quick update on my truck.
I still have it. ha ha.
There have been ups and downs with it. Mostly because i did an oil cooler replacement and egr replacement that blew up after towing 14K LBS of VW back from Wyoming. Don't use an oil cooler and egr cooler set-up from ebay unless you like doing the job twice.
After 8 months of owning it I replaced the oil cooler and egr set-up. I also replaced the dummy plugs, stand pipes and STC fitting on the High Pressure Oil pump. All was well until the EGR cooler let loose and blew the oil cooler. Lessons learned, don't buy cheap parts. DELETE THE DAMN EGR COOLER AND REGISTER IT AT AN ADDRESS IN WEBER COUNTY! No emissions testing no problems!
After that last blow out, I deleted the EGR cooler and installed an updated Ford oil cooler. I also just installed a coolant filter kit as well. I replaced a couple of sensors that were giving me trouble (ICP and IPR). I got lifetime warranties with those. I don't want to have to pay for those again.
My turbo decided to start leaking oil into the intake piping, so i just bought a rebuild kit for it. $59 shipped. So I have to pull that thing out again. But after this, I think I should be good for a long time.
I like the truck overall. I just got done fixing a lot of crap on it. you can't beat the power or mileage when you think about it being a 7500 lbs truck.
I'd like to add a locker to the rear axle and then a front winch bumper and 15000 lbs winch. I'll probably try to find some 17" wheels for better tire options, I'm not a fan of the 18" wheels and tires. I'm also looking at a truck bed camper for use on easier dirt road stuff. I'll pull the land rover behind it on a flat bed trailer for getting into harder stuff.
I still have it. ha ha.
There have been ups and downs with it. Mostly because i did an oil cooler replacement and egr replacement that blew up after towing 14K LBS of VW back from Wyoming. Don't use an oil cooler and egr cooler set-up from ebay unless you like doing the job twice.
After 8 months of owning it I replaced the oil cooler and egr set-up. I also replaced the dummy plugs, stand pipes and STC fitting on the High Pressure Oil pump. All was well until the EGR cooler let loose and blew the oil cooler. Lessons learned, don't buy cheap parts. DELETE THE DAMN EGR COOLER AND REGISTER IT AT AN ADDRESS IN WEBER COUNTY! No emissions testing no problems!
After that last blow out, I deleted the EGR cooler and installed an updated Ford oil cooler. I also just installed a coolant filter kit as well. I replaced a couple of sensors that were giving me trouble (ICP and IPR). I got lifetime warranties with those. I don't want to have to pay for those again.
My turbo decided to start leaking oil into the intake piping, so i just bought a rebuild kit for it. $59 shipped. So I have to pull that thing out again. But after this, I think I should be good for a long time.
I like the truck overall. I just got done fixing a lot of crap on it. you can't beat the power or mileage when you think about it being a 7500 lbs truck.
I'd like to add a locker to the rear axle and then a front winch bumper and 15000 lbs winch. I'll probably try to find some 17" wheels for better tire options, I'm not a fan of the 18" wheels and tires. I'm also looking at a truck bed camper for use on easier dirt road stuff. I'll pull the land rover behind it on a flat bed trailer for getting into harder stuff.
sawtooth4x4
Totally Awesome
- Location
- Land of East Laytonshire
I put some new tires up front. I was getting tired of the bald Nitto Trail Grapplers. I got 2 new BFG AT KO2s. Already a huge improvement. Much quieter and a smoother ride. I'm running 285/65/18 load range E. Put about 150 miles on them yesterday.
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
So your "joys" with the 6.0l have totally convinced me to never even consider one. I LOVE the truck but the engine is SO suspect it doesn't seem to be worth it at all from the outside looking in? What are your thoughts as you're the guy with the wallet?
sawtooth4x4
Totally Awesome
- Location
- Land of East Laytonshire
If I had a ton of money, I'd buy a new cummins and spend $800 + a month on a new truck for 7 years. But $800 a month is more than half of my house payment, so that would be stupid. and when the PMI drops off in 3 years my house payment will be around $1000 a month. So buying a new truck is stupid to me. I hate the depreciation. I paid $15000 for this truck. IT has 192K miles.
It has been a learning curve with this truck, this diesel and learning how to work on them. I have been overwhelmed. I have only taken it in once to have something fixed.
Once you get the updated parts:
Dummy plugs
Standpipes,
FORD Oil Cooler
HPOP (high pressure oil pump) STC fittings
Upgrade the turbo (better wheel, less lag)
Other important mods:
EGR Cooler Delete
Catalytic Converter Delete
Everything seems great. I can't complain with 18 mpg and a 8000 lbs truck. I really do like it. Its coming to terms with working on it and learning its intricacies. I'm used to working on European vehicles, and not American or Japanese. I feel at home on a Land Rover or Mercedes. A Ford feels under engineered, not thought out like a European car. Everything is easy to remove on a European car, and there is a method to the madness. American stuff feels like they went, "Oh sh*t, I forgot about that part, where then hell can I stick this part so it'll run. Its my opinion of course, I just used to European stuff. That's why I don't really like Toyota's or Chevies.
Its comfortable. I can haul anything. IT doesn't mind a huge 35 foot 5th wheel with to 5000 lbs Land Rover on the back either.
If you are willing to buy a few tools to do the jobs on the truck, run synthetic oil and change filters regularly, it's a good truck. You can't even buy a new truck with a bench seat and leather anymore.
If you cannot fix it, then don't get one. But if you can, you can get a 1 ton crew cab diesel for a hell of a deal. I'm going to keep it and see if I can get 500K miles out of it. Then if I ever get a company truck, I'll go for a cummins and write it off on the governments dime, like everyone else does.
It has been a learning curve with this truck, this diesel and learning how to work on them. I have been overwhelmed. I have only taken it in once to have something fixed.
Once you get the updated parts:
Dummy plugs
Standpipes,
FORD Oil Cooler
HPOP (high pressure oil pump) STC fittings
Upgrade the turbo (better wheel, less lag)
Other important mods:
EGR Cooler Delete
Catalytic Converter Delete
Everything seems great. I can't complain with 18 mpg and a 8000 lbs truck. I really do like it. Its coming to terms with working on it and learning its intricacies. I'm used to working on European vehicles, and not American or Japanese. I feel at home on a Land Rover or Mercedes. A Ford feels under engineered, not thought out like a European car. Everything is easy to remove on a European car, and there is a method to the madness. American stuff feels like they went, "Oh sh*t, I forgot about that part, where then hell can I stick this part so it'll run. Its my opinion of course, I just used to European stuff. That's why I don't really like Toyota's or Chevies.
Its comfortable. I can haul anything. IT doesn't mind a huge 35 foot 5th wheel with to 5000 lbs Land Rover on the back either.
If you are willing to buy a few tools to do the jobs on the truck, run synthetic oil and change filters regularly, it's a good truck. You can't even buy a new truck with a bench seat and leather anymore.
If you cannot fix it, then don't get one. But if you can, you can get a 1 ton crew cab diesel for a hell of a deal. I'm going to keep it and see if I can get 500K miles out of it. Then if I ever get a company truck, I'll go for a cummins and write it off on the governments dime, like everyone else does.
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- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
I was seriously considering a new Cummins two years ago but decided I couldn't handle the Dodge wrapper it comes in. They had the truck I wanted at the price I was willing to pay, right color, long bed, 4x4 shifter on the floor, etc. I had such a shittastic experience with my '04 Cummins I just wouldn't spend the money. After some research, I decided I had two truck options: 7.3l Ford or a Duramax (just not a fan of the GM trucks at all for some reason). EVERYONE I know with a "bulletproofed" 6.0l has sold or wants to sell it. Same with the 6.4l Ford. Everyone is dumping them shortly after warranty is up.
Just curious to watch the 6.0l process you're going through and was curious if you've regretted purchase yet or if you're still going strong with it.
I bought a V10 Super Duty as a holdover until I can figure out what I wanted and like it a lot more than expected. It LOVES fuel but I haven't had a turbo issue, EGR, HPOP, etc. The 10 mpg I get and the slightly slower towing speeds are pretty worth it so far. I do miss the badassery of the diesel while climbing hills but I'm pretty happy with the investment per $ ....
Just curious to watch the 6.0l process you're going through and was curious if you've regretted purchase yet or if you're still going strong with it.
I bought a V10 Super Duty as a holdover until I can figure out what I wanted and like it a lot more than expected. It LOVES fuel but I haven't had a turbo issue, EGR, HPOP, etc. The 10 mpg I get and the slightly slower towing speeds are pretty worth it so far. I do miss the badassery of the diesel while climbing hills but I'm pretty happy with the investment per $ ....
sawtooth4x4
Totally Awesome
- Location
- Land of East Laytonshire
I've read quite a few people who have well over 300K miles on these trucks. After they have fixed and updated everything they don't have anymore problems. Just typical stuff that wears out, batteries, brakes, etc.
I'll try to keep this updated. I'm going to take it camping next this coming weekend to see how it does with the camper on the back. I just need to finish wiring the tail lights on it this week.
I'll try to keep this updated. I'm going to take it camping next this coming weekend to see how it does with the camper on the back. I just need to finish wiring the tail lights on it this week.
sawtooth4x4
Totally Awesome
- Location
- Land of East Laytonshire
Since its been running so well lately, I decided to give it something new. Some 4" LED's to replace the crappy 4" fog lights. I'll take some night time pictures tonight when its dark to compare.
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
Having owned 4 superduties with the 6.0 all at varying degrees of awesome or terrible I feel compelled to reply.
My first 6.0 was a 2003.5 that ford bought back and fixed. I got a SCREAMING deal on it after I threatened the dealer for selling me a lemon law buyback without my knowledge. My dad is still driving this truck with about 150k miles on it. Ford rebuilt it at about 60k. It is super quiet, has tons of power and gets the best mileage of the 6.0's I've owned.
My next one was a turd but it had been abused by a person with more dollars than sense. Had multiple issues that I never figured out. Ended up selling it for financial reasons not related to the truck.
Next 6.0 was in an Excursion. Had a Fuel Injector Control module with bad solder joints cause me some grief. Got that sorted pretty easily then had oil cooler issues. I replaced the EGR and Oil cooler with reputable or OEM parts and it ran great. Only sold it to get back into a pickup.
My last (currenty) superduty is a 2006 F350 Crew Cab long bed. When I went shopping, I drove all three (GM, Dodge and Ford). I was convinced I would get over my Ford love and buy a DMAX. I drove several and didn't mind them. The problem I had was the cost. I like the Super Duty platform and think they are a solid chassis and body with a failure prone engine.
I created a checklist using the things I have learned from my several years of ownership and addressing different issues. I took the sheet with me to test drive each truck and I went over everything with a fine tooth comb. I ended up with a truck that had just under 100k miles for $5-6K less than a comparable DMAX at the time. I used the engines reputation to haggle with the dealer and got them down a grand and they threw in a bumper to bumper warranty for just under a grand. I have driven the truck for 25K miles and 2 years. They replaced several steering components, a turbo that was whining when purchased (part of the reason for the warranty) and a fuel sending unit. Grand total for parts was more than double the warranty. That might sound bad but the turbo was almost 2x the warranty and I knew it was bad when I bought the truck. The other parts were wear and tear items.
My truck is starting to have oil and coolant temp delta issues which means it needs an oil cooler. I'll delete the EGR and install a Ford Oil cooler for under $500 and 4 or 5 hours work.
So I think if you are a handy mechanic, you know what to look for, you replace critical parts with OEM and you run gauges to monitor things, the 6.0 can be a very affordable diesel. The other good part is the wealth of information on the web. True you have to dig and you will turn wrenches but I think that's true with any "value" in automobiles. If the only thing you want to turn is the key, you have to buy new or a toyota
FYI, I pull a 12k pound toy hauler a lot with my truck. It gets 10mpg towing and around 16 tuned empty. I love it and hope to pay it off and keep it until it is a rusty pile.