Linking my Toyota pickup
- Thread starter chase3194
- Start date
-
- Tags
- build thread
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
My vote goes for coilovers.
If you do airshocks you will want to run 2.5s and they are not any cheaper than coilovers, the 2" airshocks have horrible manners in a vehicle weighing as much as your truck does
With this being said I run 2.5" air shocks they work amazing but.... My rig is a trailer queen also if you blow a seal in a airshock you are riding home on the bump stops where with a coilover you still have the coilsprings to keep you at ride height even if you puked all the oil and nitrogen out of the shock
STAG
On my grind
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
If you want some brand-new coilovers I have a pair of 16"-travel ADS Shock (Ballistic fabrication's brand) still in the box. $600 for the pair. Remote reservoir. No springs.
Okay what about running coil overs in the front and air shocks in the rear? Like I said will be picking everything up thursday, I am really excited because I feel like this is going to take my truck to a whole new level. What about running a suck down winch? I have a atv winch lying around. as well as my friend has one at his pawn shop he would get me for a steal of a deal. is it worth it or will coilovers not "unload" as much as a air shock? Thanks for all the input.
The parts you have will get you started, but in the long run.
brackets
driveshaft changes
limit straps
steering system changes for more articulation
Uptravel problems, new oil pan or?
NEED SWAYBARS
links/ joints/bolts
frame reinforcement for coilover towers
CORRECT spring rates
I say you be into it around 3800 if you did your own labor.
brackets
driveshaft changes
limit straps
steering system changes for more articulation
Uptravel problems, new oil pan or?
NEED SWAYBARS
links/ joints/bolts
frame reinforcement for coilover towers
CORRECT spring rates
I say you be into it around 3800 if you did your own labor.
I will be getting fox 2.0 coilovers from brenden for 400 fox air shocks for 300
my whole front setup links, brackets, dom tubing, joints. For 488-688 and I already have all the rear except for the upper link brackets because I'm running a wishbone 3 link. I am running bushings on the frame side to cut cost a little. I know I want to keep it street legal but I don't think that it will happen. As of right now it doesn't stay outside it's in a heated garage. I'm only into it 150 and I have the rear truss lower two links new bushings all my tabs and brackets except for the upper link mounts. With limit straps and bump stops and sway bars I haven't added that into the equation. So maybe that's where I will be running up my cost. I'm currently only into my truck 1352 dollars and have kept it budget as much as possible.
I picked up everything today except for the air shocks. I changed the plans a little bit and decided to do a 4 link in the rear instead of a 3 link. I was in absolute shock when I was picking everything up. I couldn't believe I dropped that much at once and I couldn't believe the size of the tubing and the joints. I'm doing 2 inch .25 wall dom tubing for my links. Might be a little over kill for my little guy but I'm excited to start tearing into this. I want a low center of gravity so I'm going to be running 4 ft links front and rear. Any advice on the best way possible but not sacrificing my transfer cases. These rock ends are huge it's crazy!
Im not entirely sure you are aware of the can of worms you are opening........anyways good luck
Please expound on this? I'm not going to be doing this alone. I have someone that has set up numerous link suspensions up helping me out.
I have an 8ft stick of the 2 inch .25 dom tubing that isn't cut to size yet so i will be able to change it up for the lower links. I've been reading the link suspensions for dummies on pirate. I feel like talking and seeing and laying out links with some tape will help to see how it would go. I'm all for advice and what I need to do, I want to get the most out of my suspension as possible.
STAG
On my grind
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
A "rule of thumb" I have always heard:
lower links length should be close to your tire height, and then upper links should be 70% of your lower links length.
lower links length should be close to your tire height, and then upper links should be 70% of your lower links length.
Or not. I've always hated that "rule". Not that there's anything wrong with making your uppers 70% of the lower's length, but there's also very little justification for doing it. Build what fits, make sure the geometry is what you want, and run it.
rondo
rondo
- Location
- Boise Idaho
best of luck withyour build! can't wait to see pics!
my experience with linking my YJ was this: needed a sway bar on the back to control body roll but not on the front. air shocks on the back seem ok but not for carrying any amount of real weight; for example when I put on the spare (which is a steel beadlock and heavy tire plus bracketry) it's a heavy pig and I wish I'd put on coilovers
-3' of uptravel is ok, probably more than you got with IFS
my experience with linking my YJ was this: needed a sway bar on the back to control body roll but not on the front. air shocks on the back seem ok but not for carrying any amount of real weight; for example when I put on the spare (which is a steel beadlock and heavy tire plus bracketry) it's a heavy pig and I wish I'd put on coilovers
-3' of uptravel is ok, probably more than you got with IFS
mombobuggy
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Highland
Good call going four link. Correct me if I am wrong but wont your roll center be higher . And therefore more stable. Also all four Heims will bear side loads instead of just the wishbone. Will it be double triangulated ? In my opinion that is the best way. If possible with front Driveline clearance. Less axle steering with double triangulated. Just a thought I am still learning myself. My rig is primative but I dont have any wheel hop and it is so much softer than when it had leafs it currently has 8 inches of up travel all around and I plan to notch my frame for more. If you can manage a little more up travel it will increase your comfort level. and it seems to me bottoming out all of the time is rough on other parts as well not just your spine and neck. Uptravel gives good flex as well. Congrats on a cool budget build .
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I live in orem. I would love to come see your truck.
I would like to do a dual triangulated setup but i don't know if i will be able to with my dual cases and tcase brake. I will be laying everything out with tape or pic pipe first to see what will clear.Good call going four link. Correct me if I am wrong but wont your roll center be higher . And therefore more stable. Also all four Heims will bear side loads instead of just the wishbone. Will it be double triangulated ? In my opinion that is the best way. If possible with front Driveline clearance. Less axle steering with double triangulated. Just a thought I am still learning myself. My rig is primative but I dont have any wheel hop and it is so much softer than when it had leafs it currently has 8 inches of up travel all around and I plan to notch my frame for more. If you can manage a little more up travel it will increase your comfort level. and it seems to me bottoming out all of the time is rough on other parts as well not just your spine and neck. Uptravel gives good flex as well. Congrats on a cool budget build .