my 1988 toyota 4runner

my 1988 toyota 4runner aka "The chick magnet"

Owners Name & City- Tyler Roundy, Orem, UT


Make, Model & Year of Vehicle- 1988 Toyota 4runner


Engine- 3.0L v6, with upgraded radiator.


Transmission- Stock 5 speed manual trans.


T-Case- Stock


Axles- Stock


Suspension- Bastard Spring Pack in the Rear, and a ball joint spacer for the front



Wheels and Tires- 15 inch rims and 33's


Winch- none


Favorite Trails- never been on a trail yet.


Other- custom front bumper and trail gear rock sliders!


I am currently 17, Jr. in high school. This is my first vehicle. I got it for what I think is a good deal. clearly needs work, but i'm going to be going to MATC in lehi to become an auto technition. I am still a newb when it comes to cars and will need all the help i can get. I bought it with the hopes my parents would let me tag along in their insurance.... BOY WAS I WRONG!!! so on top of school, I will be in search of a job to pay for my own insurance. ( oh well, cant be unemployed forever )

this is how it sits now.


 
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crawler dude12

Active Member
Location
Orem
cool, well I will look into that. I need to get a job first so I can at least drive it... anyways... I started ripping out the carpet and trying to decide to just leave it in, and keep the wires covered, or continue to pull the carpet and try and hide the wires.
 

gorillaxj

Always building hardly wheeling
Location
SLC
I ordered a carpet kit from here for an ok price from what I could find. IIRC it was about 140$ shipped. I bed lined from the back seat back as it was cheaper then carpet and made more sense to me. The carpet is good enough for me, no complaints. I had to trim the sides and cut every hole but it was molded pretty close, I took a hair dryer to lightly heat it and form it a little more once installed.

There are a few runners on ksl being parted, or hit pick and pull and grab the carpet, some degreaser and a pressure washer should clean it up pretty good.

I would grab a JY power steering pump since your looking for one on the cheap, or buy a re-seal kit if yours is just leaking (about 25$IIRC)

Just some ideas.
 
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crawler dude12

Active Member
Location
Orem
okay well i filled the pump up with oil and tried to see if it would do anything. it did eventually free up a little but now it whines and its still kinda hard to turn.

here is a video.

[video=youtube;1_edIPNymJU]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1_edIPNymJU&feature=youtu.be[/video]
 

gorillaxj

Always building hardly wheeling
Location
SLC
Sounds like there could be air in it still since it was low/empty. But could be burned up from being ran low. I would top it off after it sits for a bit and see if it goes away. If not it will need a pump.
 

crawler dude12

Active Member
Location
Orem
topped it off... No noise! And it is easy to turn! so, just got to keep an eye on it and see if its leaking anywhere. Also, finnished ripping out the carpet. now just got to save up some $ for some aluminum diamond tread to make the back panels.
 

crawler dude12

Active Member
Location
Orem
Quick question. I just picked up the front spacers/ leveling kit for the 4runner and was wondering, once I get it put together will I have to redo the alignment? and if so could I do it at home or would I have to take it to a shop?
 
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Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Vehicular limbo
The ball joint spacers will throw your camber out. I wouldn't mess with thrying to correct it in the driveway, take it in for an alignment.
 

crawler dude12

Active Member
Location
Orem
Just got it insured and registered! Few more things I would like to do to it before I take it out yet.

- fix the leak between the 3rd member and axle housing, and some wheel studs.
- rock sliders

- Finish the front lift and alignment.

- wheel it!
 

crawler dude12

Active Member
Location
Orem
What is the best way to mount rock sliders to this 4runner? Just looking at it, it looks like the body hangs down over the frame too much. I have looked and can't find a good picture of how they mounted the sliders to the first gen 4runner. Anyone have an idea or a picture of how it has been done?
 

ricsrx

Well-Known Member
if you are ever going to put a body lift on it I would do it before you install the sliders, even if it is a 1'' lift, I have never put sliders on a Toyota that did not have at least a 1 inch lift, so I have never ran into your situation. I would put on a 1'' body lift anyway. then if you want to raise the t-case a little to install a flatter cross member you are good to go.
 

crawler dude12

Active Member
Location
Orem
So, from what I understand (correct me if I'm wrong) but what I am getting from this is that I should do a 1" body lift then do sliders, and if later I wanted to raise the t-case to add a flatter cross member, I wouldn't have to worry about lifting the body. If that is the case... I might just have to keep saving my pennies for a body lift and bigger tires... I haven't thought about doing a body lift or anything like t-case lift. My initial plans were to put the ball joint spacers in (done) rock sliders and just wheel it for now while I save up to do other things like SAS. But I'm still a newb and don't know what's best. And I'm willing to learn!
 

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Vehicular limbo
You can install sliders without putting on a body lift. You just have to angle the legs a touch.

I like your initial plan. There's nothing wrong with bigger tires and a flat belly (mmmm, flat belly), but you're just getting into the hobby. 35s and a drivetrain lift would be wasted on you (don't be insulted, they'd be wasted on me too). Get the sliders and maybe some skid plates on there and let it eat. Worry about flat bellies and SAS and whatever else once you've got a better idea exactly what you want to get out of the truck.
 

gorillaxj

Always building hardly wheeling
Location
SLC
Mine doesn't have a body lift, I ran the legs straight to the frame and welded them on. I cut the pinch weld and folded it flat in 2" sections where my legs where going to go to tuck them up as high as possible, I also used some 1/4" plate and welded that to the frame over the factory holes so I had a nice and flat surface. I then welded some 1.5"x1.5" triangle gussets on top of the legs to the frame to help hold them from flexing and add strength to the frame side of the mount. I put a 16* angle up on the sliders so they weren't flat, but still had just over 1/2" from the bottom of the door when open.

Not a pic of mine but this would be Without cutting the pinch seam to raise them 1/2-3/4", also shoes plate and gussets with you can buy with the sliders or just make your own.
http://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/slider2-jpg.112839/

I love my trail-gear sliders for he $$, cheap enough to where doing the work myself to build them wasn't worth it. Low range probably has them in stock and are local to you. Hope it helps.
 

crawler dude12

Active Member
Location
Orem
That is what I'm looking for. But, I'm interested to see what yours looks like. Any pics? Also a newb question. If I do get rock sliders and weld them on. Would I have any issue with safety inspection?
 

gorillaxj

Always building hardly wheeling
Location
SLC
I don't have any close ones, these are all I have. But they show the how they sit and how far they stick out. (Can stick out more if you want it to, I chopped a few inches out of the legs)





They have no effect of safety inspection.
 
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