my 1988 toyota 4runner

my 1988 toyota 4runner aka "The chick magnet"

Owners Name & City- Tyler Roundy, Orem, UT


Make, Model & Year of Vehicle- 1988 Toyota 4runner


Engine- 3.0L v6, with upgraded radiator.


Transmission- Stock 5 speed manual trans.


T-Case- Stock


Axles- Stock


Suspension- Bastard Spring Pack in the Rear, and a ball joint spacer for the front



Wheels and Tires- 15 inch rims and 33's


Winch- none


Favorite Trails- never been on a trail yet.


Other- custom front bumper and trail gear rock sliders!


I am currently 17, Jr. in high school. This is my first vehicle. I got it for what I think is a good deal. clearly needs work, but i'm going to be going to MATC in lehi to become an auto technition. I am still a newb when it comes to cars and will need all the help i can get. I bought it with the hopes my parents would let me tag along in their insurance.... BOY WAS I WRONG!!! so on top of school, I will be in search of a job to pay for my own insurance. ( oh well, cant be unemployed forever )

this is how it sits now.


 
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ricsrx

Well-Known Member
so would it be a problem putting a body lift on it now, and that would allow you to mount the sliders alittle higher?
I will make up some 1'' lift pucks for you, if I can locate the longer bolts i will throw those in with it. so every one that is positing up, I see that gorillaxj does not have the lift but do the rest of you have a body lift on your rigs?
I know it was one of my first mods.

x2 on the TG sliders, i dont think you can beat them for the price and over all quality.
 
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crawler dude12

Active Member
Location
Orem
I have no problem with doing a body lift. I am just not sure exactly how to do a body lift. But, I have a general idea. Would I have to do any modifications to do a body lift?
 

spacecase

Out Crawlin'
Location
SL, UT
the legs will just have to be cut at a slight angle so they will sit below the body. i trimmed my pinch welds to get them as close as possible as well, but most guys just leave a little clearance below there. they will flex a little when you are on a rock
 

spacecase

Out Crawlin'
Location
SL, UT
this is how close i got mine without a body lift, welded as close to the bottom of the frame rail as i could get. i would imagine you're runner is pretty similar.
warning: it takes ALOT of work to put these on, tons of measuring, cutting, tack welding and trimming of the legs. i spent a good 6 hours on mine, being my first attempt.

dont have any pics of the legs, i could take some tonight if you need some



02.jpg
 

ricsrx

Well-Known Member
I mounted mine out further, I put the strait pipe of the sliders just out side of the pinch weld on jack stands, then rotated the pipe up with the door open until i was .5 or so under the door, suported that up with another jack stand. then cut my arms and welded it up.
it is best if you can install them outside were you can stand back to get a good look at them, when your in a garage it is difficult to get a good level line on them.
I have installed 5 sets and the set i did out side were right on.
crawler dude where are you located?
 
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crawler dude12

Active Member
Location
Orem
Well with more issues found and not enough money to fix them yet, I had to take it for at least one trip off of the pavement. Nothing crazy just a dirt road with a steep hill.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1402551395.845661.jpg
 

gorillaxj

Always building hardly wheeling
Location
SLC
Do you still have your 4runner?

yes I do. I love it.


^sick runner gorillaxj. love the paint.

thanks!


I mounted mine out further, I put the trait pipe of the sliders just out side of the pinch weld

that exactly how I did it, mine has about 1/2" between the straight tube and the pinch weld. I had 2 buddy's helping me so one could hold the slider the other lay under it and measure it while I cut to fit lol. Tacked everything on both sides and measured to make sure they where the same, then burned it all in.

Depending on your over all goals a body lift may not be a bad thing at all as they are cheap, or free is ricsrx can make it for you... Would add some room for a bigger tire while you learn your rig as it is. I know a SAS is so tempting and seams like the best thing to do, but I wouldn't rush it. Lock the rear diff, do some armor(like you are) take care of all maintenance needs and see where it takes you. 32-33's and IFS can get you into a lot of places and have a lot of fun. Then if it's even worth it to you look into SAS's. Just my thoughts if I where in your shoes again.
 

crawler dude12

Active Member
Location
Orem
I don't think I really have the funds to do any armor at the moment. It failed both emissions and safety. For safety I just have to do the rear brakes. And I'm hoping that a good tune up and some fluid changes should get it to pass emissions.... If not, I'm sure I will have to dump even more money into it just to get it to pass... That's my nightmare, emissions.
 

crawler dude12

Active Member
Location
Orem
Well, I did a full tune up (cap and rotor, plugs, wires, oil filter, and fuel filter) and it failed again... I found a few vacuum leaks and fixed those and I'm going to try a full tank of fresh gas and some sea foam and take it on a longer drive and try again. But, it did pass safety!
 

crawler dude12

Active Member
Location
Orem
$300+ later I found out the catalytic converter was just a shell... So I replaced it and everything is good now... Bought a set of 33's and got them put on this morning!
Now just need to get some rock sliders.

Before
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1406056592.920045.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1406056613.619582.jpg

After
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1406056529.421999.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1406056541.319390.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1406056555.552484.jpg
 

crawler dude12

Active Member
Location
Orem
Well, I just order a set of trail gear sliders for it! And I now have to park this truck for a while... I can't afford it anymore... I just bought 33's (sold my old ones) and one just decided to give up. I have a spare but I don't trust it... So it's going to be parked until I buy NEW tires...
 
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