He ordered on 2/27/14. He was told 30 days. Recently he was told it was "back ordered" Today is 4/5/14 and he still doesn't have it.
I will let you know when he gets it in.
Nathan
Jeep Nathan and Tanja's 99 XJ Build up
- Thread starter thenag
- Start date
-
- Tags
- build thread
He ordered on 2/27/14. He was told 30 days. Recently he was told it was "back ordered" Today is 4/5/14 and he still doesn't have it.
I will let you know when he gets it in.
Nathan
Lifelong Jeeper
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Murray
So anything yet?
Nope,
He is going to give them a call next week. It is a bummer he really wanted his 231/d300 in before we go to Moab on 5/1, so that isn't going to happen. (even if it got here this week we wouldn't have time to get drive shaft work done and figure out shifters)
Nathan
Lifelong Jeeper
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Murray
PM sent.
Sasquatch_Adventures
Active Member
- Location
- Enoch Utah
Wow awesome build! Nice work on all of it. Ill be spending a bit going through all of it page by page.
Lifelong Jeeper
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Murray
So these aren't nearly as nice as your fiberglass flares but thought I'd share my JK flares install. Not too bad and the price was right. 
Lifelong Jeeper
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Murray
What did you figure out on his shifters? This worked well for me? I like having the shifters all close together.
I did the twin sticks which I love and then a cable shifter for the doubler.
All his stuff is still in a box. I will probably pm you for more details on the cable shift for the range box. My air shifter has held up really well, we need to get him OBA anyway since he has an ARB we need to put in too...
Thanks
Nathan
So a year after cutting out my last little bit of frame stiffeners for the front, and a year after installing the driver side. (see post # 179 ) I actually installed the passenger side. I guess the only important part is that the front bumper mount is now welded onto the "frame". so any winching will be transferred into more of the "frame"
So with this installed my "frame" has at least some additional metal bolted and/or welded to it with the exception of about 4 inches between the rear coil seat and the OEM tow hitch mounts
So with this installed my "frame" has at least some additional metal bolted and/or welded to it with the exception of about 4 inches between the rear coil seat and the OEM tow hitch mounts
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Badger
I am the Brute squad
- Location
- South Salt Lake
Don't feel to bad. I have had frame stiffeners sitting in the garage for around a year now for the ZJ.
So as my father in law and I were building and re-building his d300 shift linkage we talked about a ton of ideas on how to improve the simple lever design. I also came up with some ideas to make it more serviceable.
So since he pulled his behemoth/d300 for now I decided that the ideas we talked about were too good to forget and so I redesigned my d300 shift linkage.
The goals were to;
be able to remove the center console without removing the entire shift lever
decrease the total number of pieces. (weld washers in place etc) so that I wouldn't have a ton of 1/4-20 bolts/nuts/washers.
move the pivot from about 3.5 to about 4 inches so that the levers will have less throw
have some adjustment in lever to allow fine tuning.
try to fill the hole in the floor better so less air would come in the cab.
upgrade the look so it looked less hacked together.
First was to replace the tcase end links with rod ends
View attachment 98048
I then made a mount for the a 3/8 rod end to mount to the d300 shift rail
View attachment 98049
I will skip to the end on this part. I used the shoulder of a 3/8 bolt to make a pin to fit into the end of the rod end, this pin will slide up and down as the lever moves in an arch, this will reduce the binding and any up/down pulling on the d300 shift rail
View attachment 98050
As for the hole in the floor I have always used a piece of foam. This works pretty well. I added two pieces of rubber on top of the foam.
View attachment 98051
View attachment 98052
View attachment 98053
So on my old levers I welded a 2 inch long piece of 1 inch steel onto the end of the lever. This worked well but was not removable, so to remove the console I had to un-bolt several pieces from under the jeep to get the levers off. After dropping my belly skid plate. So I started trading some emails with my machinist friend in Durango. I wanted to drill a 1/4 hole through the center of a 2 inch long piece of steel. Of course as you start to over think this, there is plenty of ways to screw that up even with a drill press. The two critical things are making sure that the steel is cut at exactly 90 and drilling in the center of a round piece of steel. He of course said it would be easy for him, so I asked him to do it for me. He looked through his scrap and didn't have any mild steel, he only had stainless steel.
(these are so bling-ing I am going to put them on the next post)
Wait for it
...
So since he pulled his behemoth/d300 for now I decided that the ideas we talked about were too good to forget and so I redesigned my d300 shift linkage.
The goals were to;
be able to remove the center console without removing the entire shift lever
decrease the total number of pieces. (weld washers in place etc) so that I wouldn't have a ton of 1/4-20 bolts/nuts/washers.
move the pivot from about 3.5 to about 4 inches so that the levers will have less throw
have some adjustment in lever to allow fine tuning.
try to fill the hole in the floor better so less air would come in the cab.
upgrade the look so it looked less hacked together.
First was to replace the tcase end links with rod ends
View attachment 98048
I then made a mount for the a 3/8 rod end to mount to the d300 shift rail
View attachment 98049
I will skip to the end on this part. I used the shoulder of a 3/8 bolt to make a pin to fit into the end of the rod end, this pin will slide up and down as the lever moves in an arch, this will reduce the binding and any up/down pulling on the d300 shift rail
View attachment 98050
As for the hole in the floor I have always used a piece of foam. This works pretty well. I added two pieces of rubber on top of the foam.
View attachment 98051
View attachment 98052
View attachment 98053
So on my old levers I welded a 2 inch long piece of 1 inch steel onto the end of the lever. This worked well but was not removable, so to remove the console I had to un-bolt several pieces from under the jeep to get the levers off. After dropping my belly skid plate. So I started trading some emails with my machinist friend in Durango. I wanted to drill a 1/4 hole through the center of a 2 inch long piece of steel. Of course as you start to over think this, there is plenty of ways to screw that up even with a drill press. The two critical things are making sure that the steel is cut at exactly 90 and drilling in the center of a round piece of steel. He of course said it would be easy for him, so I asked him to do it for me. He looked through his scrap and didn't have any mild steel, he only had stainless steel.
(these are so bling-ing I am going to put them on the next post)
Wait for it
...
HOLY CRAP I WANT TO BUY A LATHE OR MILL OR WHATEVER HE USED!
View attachment 98054
Installed
View attachment 98055
Counting every nut and washer my old setup had 36 pieces
View attachment 98056
My new setup has 25 pieces, but I added removable nubs and some adjustment.
View attachment 98057
My pivot bolt has a 5/16 nylon washer drilled to 3/8 that is tight on the bolt shoulder so that the washer and lock washer do not fall off. So that if I remove the setup I don't have to chase washers around. I also welded a washer on each lever so that the washers between the levers are attached to the levers, this prevents me from trying to jam washers in between the levers while installing.
In addition to the nylon washer, I also put a split washer on the bolt this keeps some tension on the levers. These two things prevent the levers from rattling.
I spaced the pivot bolt out so that it bottoms out so it *shouldn't* work loose due to shifting.
All of my goals were met, and an added bonus is that the shifting is A LOT smoother, it always worked well, now it works GREAT!
View attachment 98054
Installed
View attachment 98055
Counting every nut and washer my old setup had 36 pieces
View attachment 98056
My new setup has 25 pieces, but I added removable nubs and some adjustment.
View attachment 98057
My pivot bolt has a 5/16 nylon washer drilled to 3/8 that is tight on the bolt shoulder so that the washer and lock washer do not fall off. So that if I remove the setup I don't have to chase washers around. I also welded a washer on each lever so that the washers between the levers are attached to the levers, this prevents me from trying to jam washers in between the levers while installing.
In addition to the nylon washer, I also put a split washer on the bolt this keeps some tension on the levers. These two things prevent the levers from rattling.
I spaced the pivot bolt out so that it bottoms out so it *shouldn't* work loose due to shifting.
All of my goals were met, and an added bonus is that the shifting is A LOT smoother, it always worked well, now it works GREAT!
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This late summer I wanted to do some preventive stuff to the jeep. When I got my safety inspection the inspector said that one of the ball-joints had a tiny bit of play, not enough to fail but enough that I should swap it out before next year. So I went ahead and replaced the ball joints, front axle u-joints, and all 4 tie rod ends. The TRE's, I kept the old ones and put in the parts box in the jeep. I didn't take any pictures of all that.
I also realized that my batteries were over 10 years old. Herzog (and others) have used them as a trail welder and they have been completely drained a few times and still work great. Other than a little corrosion from the terminals they seemed fine I was also hanging onto them since they were still made in USA optimas.. However 10 years is a long time for batteries. So I started to keep an eye out for some kind of deal on a pair of optimas. I have to run optimas if I was to run 2, and with my commercial grade Pierce winch I should run 2. So Oreilly had a $40.00 off of any online order of $200.00 or more, also for some reason Oreilly has yellow tops priced just a few dollars more than red tops. So I did two orders got free shipping and $40.00 off each battery.
a few pics, reds are old, yellow new
I wanted to make a little more clearance round part of my battery mount so I cut this out
I also don't know if I ever mentioned that I moved my battery temp sensor to the top of my highest battery. before I did that (years ago) I had the red top belch a little acidy goo a few times, since I moved it I haven't had a problem.
Final shot of installed batteries
I also realized that my batteries were over 10 years old. Herzog (and others) have used them as a trail welder and they have been completely drained a few times and still work great. Other than a little corrosion from the terminals they seemed fine I was also hanging onto them since they were still made in USA optimas.. However 10 years is a long time for batteries. So I started to keep an eye out for some kind of deal on a pair of optimas. I have to run optimas if I was to run 2, and with my commercial grade Pierce winch I should run 2. So Oreilly had a $40.00 off of any online order of $200.00 or more, also for some reason Oreilly has yellow tops priced just a few dollars more than red tops. So I did two orders got free shipping and $40.00 off each battery.
a few pics, reds are old, yellow new
I wanted to make a little more clearance round part of my battery mount so I cut this out
I also don't know if I ever mentioned that I moved my battery temp sensor to the top of my highest battery. before I did that (years ago) I had the red top belch a little acidy goo a few times, since I moved it I haven't had a problem.
Final shot of installed batteries
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I also had some cooling issues and with the upcoming stroker I need to get my cooling under control. I don't think I ever got all the air out of the system due to not having a good over-flow bottle. So once again I looked at moving stuff around, I had this Chrysler bottle on the shelf. I don't know what it is from, I grabbed it at JY 3 years ago. but I made a nice little bracket and mounted it up.
Of course after I got it all in I realized that it is going to be in way when I have to swap a crank position sensor on the trail... DOH.
Of course after I got it all in I realized that it is going to be in way when I have to swap a crank position sensor on the trail... DOH.
So I picked this up for $250.00
According to the junk yard it has at least 110 psi in each cylinder, it has been sitting on the shelf for almost 4 years so they dropped the price. I got it the day they dropped the price. It is from a 2000 cherokee, (mine is a 1999). So of course it has the 0331 head which is prone to cracking. Not a big deal I am going to get a re-manufactured head from Clegg with bigger valves. I was thinking I could self off the intake manifold since it is the newer "better flowing" one, however they broke the power steering pump mount off the intake. I thought, maybe I could sell off the oil pan, nope they drug the motor across the shop floor so that is no good, well surely I can sell off the valve cover, nope that is bent up too. Well I paid $250 for it and all I really need is block, I will have some cores too. I guess if someone needs a 2000+ exhaust manifold I have one you can have for cheap, but I bet that is cracked too.
Anyway this means that my old engine will be coming out as a unit and so if anyone needs a motor for a cherokee I will have a running motor for sale in a month or so.
Speaking of Clegg I called them and they said that they only had a few stroker cranks left and that Scat was out of stock so that they would be going on back order pretty soon. So I picked up the bottom end kit and had it balanced.
cha-ching cha-ching
I forgot to take a picture but you know how you should upgrade to the Ford 24lb fuel injectors? Well you remember the picture of the Bronco on post #1 of this thread? I had replaced the injectors trying to chase down an issue and had 8, Ford 24lb injectors still on my shelf in my garage. So I dropped those off to be cleaned and tested today too.
and so the stroker begins...
According to the junk yard it has at least 110 psi in each cylinder, it has been sitting on the shelf for almost 4 years so they dropped the price. I got it the day they dropped the price. It is from a 2000 cherokee, (mine is a 1999). So of course it has the 0331 head which is prone to cracking. Not a big deal I am going to get a re-manufactured head from Clegg with bigger valves. I was thinking I could self off the intake manifold since it is the newer "better flowing" one, however they broke the power steering pump mount off the intake. I thought, maybe I could sell off the oil pan, nope they drug the motor across the shop floor so that is no good, well surely I can sell off the valve cover, nope that is bent up too. Well I paid $250 for it and all I really need is block, I will have some cores too. I guess if someone needs a 2000+ exhaust manifold I have one you can have for cheap, but I bet that is cracked too.
Anyway this means that my old engine will be coming out as a unit and so if anyone needs a motor for a cherokee I will have a running motor for sale in a month or so.
Speaking of Clegg I called them and they said that they only had a few stroker cranks left and that Scat was out of stock so that they would be going on back order pretty soon. So I picked up the bottom end kit and had it balanced.
cha-ching cha-ching
I forgot to take a picture but you know how you should upgrade to the Ford 24lb fuel injectors? Well you remember the picture of the Bronco on post #1 of this thread? I had replaced the injectors trying to chase down an issue and had 8, Ford 24lb injectors still on my shelf in my garage. So I dropped those off to be cleaned and tested today too.
and so the stroker begins...
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Picture of the Ford fuel injectors back from being cleaned and tested. 2 of the 8 tested bad, good thing I only need 6. Also these will require an electrical adapter which is easy to find online. I ordered a set of 8 from a mustang site for $25.00.
Now if I could get to taking the motor apart...
Now if I could get to taking the motor apart...
I got the engine torn down. I am glad that I didn't want to install that JY motor and run it. Sitting for 4 years has caused some rust on the inside. Some minor surface rust on the rocker arms, (which I want to use, so I will have to inspect them) The weights on the crank were rusting and the timing gear set is rusted into place. Thy cylinder walls all look shinny and good. All the bolt holes seem to be in good shape, so $250 for a good block, probably not too bad a deal. A few pics;
That is not sitting on the bench, that is being suspended in the air by my hand!
That is not sitting on the bench, that is being suspended in the air by my hand!
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So I got in my EV1 to EV6 injector adapters. I got an 8 pack of Ford parts for under $30.00. These will allow you to replace a EV6 injector with a EV1 injector. They make adapters to go either way so make sure you get the correct adapter. Part # is in the picture.
Before I send the block off to the machine shop I wanted to rough cut my junk oil pan. Hopefully I can find a skilled welder to to take on this modification on a new pan for me. (typical me buy a perfectly good brand new part, then hack it up) The point of this is to get a little more space for my exhaust down pipe.
Before I send the block off to the machine shop I wanted to rough cut my junk oil pan. Hopefully I can find a skilled welder to to take on this modification on a new pan for me. (typical me buy a perfectly good brand new part, then hack it up) The point of this is to get a little more space for my exhaust down pipe.
I noticed your block has the bearing cap girdle. In the process of reshaping the oil pan you might consider increasing the clearance for the girdle on the shallow end of the oil pan. In order for your girdle to be clear of the longer stroke crank you'll need to add spacers (hardened washers) between the girdle and the bearing cap bolt tops. The spacers allow you to keep the girdle out of the way of the crank but it causes the girdle to hit the oil pan. Modifying the shallow end of the oil pan a bit for clearance will let you keep the girdle.
As a side note, you technically don't need the girdle BUT I would recommend keeping it (if you can get it to clear everything). You'll have a smoother engine at higher rpms. The girdle appeared in the later 4.0 blocks with the letters NVH on the side of the block (NVH = Noise Vibration and Harshness). My stroker (2001 NVH block) currently does not have the girdle in place but I'm planning on putting it back in after I "massage" the oil pan a bit to have more clearance. The only thing I've noticed without the girdle is that there are noticeable engine vibes (not terrible) at the 4000 ~ 5000 rpm range. ...And yes I am able to distinguish these vibes amongst all the other annoying vibes my Jeep has.
