O'neal

?????????
Location
evanston wy
The overall height of the rig is only 6'6" so it's not tall just far from the ground. I'd like to see it about 2"s lower but as it sits now I'll have have to notch the frame for the steering for the 8" up 10" down combo. so I don't know what to do I guess I could notch the whole frame out but at full bump my panhard is like 1/4" from the oil pan now.:(

Sound's like it's set where it need's to be.It does look tall but with 39" tire's your about right IMO.If you dont like the way it handle's you can alway's redo later on.
 

suisuki

Chrome Won't Get ya' home
Location
Murray, UT
yeah, The more I think about it the more I think I'll have to run it there, I mean the tire is all ready into the hood, the panhard bracket barley clears the frame, the tie rod hits ect..., if I lower it will only make matters worse.

I think if I want to get the most out of the 18" shocks in the front and not have some crazy front driveline & hydro steer to accomidate tons of down travel l'll have to run it a little high so I have more room for up travel.

I'll just have to run suck-down winches for the steep climbs and stuff.
 

suisuki

Chrome Won't Get ya' home
Location
Murray, UT
well I got the rear housing prepped today, man am I glad to be done with that, what a mess, Time for a nasal flush.

I got these housings here on rme from Dtoy, the rear is the wider Ifs housing has a V6 third 5.29's and a full spool. The front has a detroit and the 30 spline longfield moly shafts and birfs.

I'm also running 2" wheel spacers on both making the wms 4" wider.
 

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suisuki

Chrome Won't Get ya' home
Location
Murray, UT
Well I got a start on the rear 4-link today. I'm using the double triangulated XX style. I got the lower link crossmember done made it out of 2x3x.188 rectangle tubing. I got the lower link tabs done made them out of 3"x.250 flat bar same as the front, I also got some trial links done I'll wait to make the lowers untill after the uppers are done ; I'm thinking about some high clearance lowers but won't know how much room I'll have for them 'till the uppers are done. The lower links are 42" long

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suisuki

Chrome Won't Get ya' home
Location
Murray, UT
I was at 80" w.b. before but after 10" stretch in the front and 16"s in the rear I'm now at 106"s :D

What do you guys think?

Looks like I may have to stretch the body out in the rear to make it look right. I'm also going to have to cut the last 8-10"s of frame off too since it's right in the way of where the shock wants to be.
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Kiel

Formerly WJ ZUK
I'm liking the progress, give me a holler If you need a hand anytime;). I think it will end up at least a couple inches lower when your all done.
 

suisuki

Chrome Won't Get ya' home
Location
Murray, UT
here's the upper link frame bracket I came up with it allows for 4 adjustments in one inch increments

P1010286.jpg
[/IMG]
 
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suisuki

Chrome Won't Get ya' home
Location
Murray, UT
Here it is tacked on the frame I'll be adding a brace down to the crossmember as well
P1010290.jpg


here's the overall of the four link you can also see the axle side upper link brackets which have one adjustment hole at 9" of vertical separation and one at 10" it looks like this is all going to work out so I'll be building a truss around these upper brackets.
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suisuki

Chrome Won't Get ya' home
Location
Murray, UT
It doesn't look like I'll have much room for high clearence lower arms so those are out, I still need to make the 2x2x.250 square lowers

I've spent alot of time trying to get that 8"s of up travel out of the front and yesterday I think I finally got it. I've decided to keep the ifs steering gearbox since the fj60 box would have been in the way of uptravel at the tie-rod; to get the clearance I needed at the tire/gearbox I notched the frame out and moved it over as far as I could and still fit my winch, about 2"s. Should clear the tire now. Winch is 1/4" off center, big deal. I had to move the front axle about an inch forward so the tie-rod would clear the crankshaft pulley at full bump, I doubt I'll ever get it to full bump in the real world but it's nice to know I have the clearance if I start wanting to jump it off the sand dunes in Moab or something. I also had to take a pretty healthy notch out of the passenger frame rail (about 3 inches deep:eek:) to clear the drag link at full articulation I'll be running another section of 2x4 over top of this to make up for it. I also re did the panhard brackets at both ends making it about 10"s longer which ment I had to re-place/redo the upper link brackets looks like the front will work out now though.

If it aint done twice it aint done nice!

haven't taken any pics of the front yet I'll get some up soon
 
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I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
Rear looks good. More uptravel in front is nice. :cool:

Is the longer panhard now equal in length to the drag link?
 

suisuki

Chrome Won't Get ya' home
Location
Murray, UT
Rear looks good. More uptravel in front is nice. :cool:

Is the longer panhard now equal in length to the drag link?


Thanks I need the encouragement

It's not quite equal but not to far off maybe 2-3"s but, I'm nearly into the shocks on both ends now so I can't make it any longer. They do stay nearly even thru the range of articulation though so I'm not worried about bump steer at all and with it longer now the axle doesn't move side to side like it did before.
 

suisuki

Chrome Won't Get ya' home
Location
Murray, UT
Also looks like I'll be lowering the belly to 24"s and 6"s uptravel I can always juice it back up If I want to and just gain uptravel.

Do you guys think 6"s of uptravel is enough with an airshock?
 
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I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
Also looks like I'll be lowering the belly to 24"s and 6"s uptravel I can always juice it back up If I want to and just gain uptravel.

Do you guys think 6"s of uptravel is enough with an airshock?

Yep. A lot of people run only 2"-3" up. (obviously it depends on your driving style and blah blah blah....)
 

suisuki

Chrome Won't Get ya' home
Location
Murray, UT
I've heard that, one guy told me he was running 3"s of up with a 2" air bump, so he was only getting 1" of up before the bump.

I'm just concerned about the ride quality I'd like this thing to be like riding a huge marshmellow.:D
 

Herzog

somewhat damaged
Admin
Location
Wyoming
I've got between 4" - 5" of uptravel on my air shocks and it seem great. I run polyurethane bumps at up front and I've never really felt it "jar" hard on a fast landing... well ever since I fixed some clearance issues that is.
 

suisuki

Chrome Won't Get ya' home
Location
Murray, UT
Nice that makes me feel alot better about 6" plus the 24" belly is really starting to grow on me. Looks a lot more stable, What do you guys think

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looks kina raked out in the front thats just cause the hoods not all the way down (hitting the shocks) frame is level.
Camera might not be though
 
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suisuki

Chrome Won't Get ya' home
Location
Murray, UT
here's one of the frame notches these will get fully plated after I'm sure there's enough clearence. You can also see the brace I made over the top this is 2x3x.188 rectangle capped with 2x.188 flatbar

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Here's the notch I had to make to clear the A/c compressor pulley. I can just barely get the belt off.

P1010325.jpg
 
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