This. Had to do it many years ago on h2 wheels as well. It works really well and is quick. Use the larger diameter of the opening as the bit bearing guide.
Single axle trailer refreshing
- Thread starter The_Lobbster
- Start date
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
That's not poor like a 14 bolt. That's Dana 60. You're at least lower middle class with a front 60?
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
Well I don't have Buick money but the kids will get Christmas 🎄
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
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The_Lobbster
Well-Known Member
Looks like new axle time. I noticed this before, but didn’t pay much attention to it. Only now noticed just how screwed it is.
The_Lobbster
Well-Known Member
I was kinda leaning towards it anyways when I bought the thing. I’ll probably narrow this axle, keep it straight, and use it for a smaller utility trailer.
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
I mean. I've bent a trailer axle before, then cut a pie wedge out straightened it and wrapped it with a clamshell of sorts made of pipe and went about business probably straighter than stock. If you do it, remember they are supposed to a few degrees of inward camber unloaded.
But a new axle is the right choice.
But a new axle is the right choice.
The_Lobbster
Well-Known Member
I agree that camber is proper.
But….this is the “X” axis of the axle, so it’s got toe in!
The_Lobbster
Well-Known Member
I don’t have a router, but I do have plywood and hole saws. At first, I attempted to use my HVAC hole cutter, but it didn’t work. So I got a 125mm (4.9”) hole saw, and bored it that way. Fits perfect now! Just need to clean the wheels up and refinish them somehow. And get new lug nuts.
P.S.- this isn’t the first time I’ve holesawed wheel bores open 😎
P.S.- this isn’t the first time I’ve holesawed wheel bores open 😎
The_Lobbster
Well-Known Member
Also folded up, drilled, and welded on some 3/16” to make new leaf hangers. Measured triple times and checked square, trying to get it dialed in just right.
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
I hit a rock so hard that a trailer axle folded toe in and the tire hit the trailer frame and popped the tire.
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The_Lobbster
Well-Known Member
Got some tires, got a set of 3 for $70. They are van take offs, 235/65r16 Continental’s.
Load rating at 3,197 each, combined total of 6,394. My XL7 weighs 4,000, trailer is right about 1100 from my maths, so that leaves me with almost 1300 lbs of wiggle room at full pressure. I’ll probably run them slightly less than max tho. Hopefully they’ll suffice. This trailer will rarely see my XL7, it’ll mostly be used for light utility work.
These measure 28”, where as most 16” trailer tires are around 31-32”
Load rating at 3,197 each, combined total of 6,394. My XL7 weighs 4,000, trailer is right about 1100 from my maths, so that leaves me with almost 1300 lbs of wiggle room at full pressure. I’ll probably run them slightly less than max tho. Hopefully they’ll suffice. This trailer will rarely see my XL7, it’ll mostly be used for light utility work.
These measure 28”, where as most 16” trailer tires are around 31-32”
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
Nice score on the tires.
Are those lug nuts correct for the wheels?
Are those lug nuts correct for the wheels?
The_Lobbster
Well-Known Member
Nope, they’re just the ones that came with the hubs for steel wheels. I need to order some 1/2x20 big bulge nuts yet.
The_Lobbster
Well-Known Member
Anybody here a genius with tubing/pipe load calculations?
I’m messing with the rogue fab pipe/tube calculator, and am ending up with a safety factor of .71 for A53 steel. Even if I plug in DOM as the material, it’s still barely 2, and this is in a static scenario.
Here’s the numbers I’m plugging in, perhaps somebody can share some insight?
OD- 2.875”
Wall- .276”
Load- 6,000 lbs, even distribution
Material- A53 steel
Tube length- 75”
When calculating the safety factor, would I figure the full length of the beam before the spindles? Or would I divide the length in half, and also the load weight and placement since it’s spread over two leaf springs?
7k axles are definitely a thing, so I’m racking my brain trying to figure out what I’m doing wrong. I will add, I tried to ask a mechanical engineer I know, but didn’t really get an answer other than, 6,000 is far too heavy for one axle, run tandems. Even though my weight will be closer to 5,000 max.
Edit: drew a diagram to show what I’m trying to ask, which measurement (or perhaps one not pictured) should I be using for my tube length in the calculator?
A- beam length, without spindles
B- inside of leaf to spindle weld
C-middle of axle tube to spindle weld
D- inside of leaf to outside of spindle
I’m messing with the rogue fab pipe/tube calculator, and am ending up with a safety factor of .71 for A53 steel. Even if I plug in DOM as the material, it’s still barely 2, and this is in a static scenario.
Here’s the numbers I’m plugging in, perhaps somebody can share some insight?
OD- 2.875”
Wall- .276”
Load- 6,000 lbs, even distribution
Material- A53 steel
Tube length- 75”
When calculating the safety factor, would I figure the full length of the beam before the spindles? Or would I divide the length in half, and also the load weight and placement since it’s spread over two leaf springs?
7k axles are definitely a thing, so I’m racking my brain trying to figure out what I’m doing wrong. I will add, I tried to ask a mechanical engineer I know, but didn’t really get an answer other than, 6,000 is far too heavy for one axle, run tandems. Even though my weight will be closer to 5,000 max.
Edit: drew a diagram to show what I’m trying to ask, which measurement (or perhaps one not pictured) should I be using for my tube length in the calculator?
A- beam length, without spindles
B- inside of leaf to spindle weld
C-middle of axle tube to spindle weld
D- inside of leaf to outside of spindle
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The_Lobbster
Well-Known Member
Finished fabbing all my leaf mounts. The rear slipper will have a bolt in place to prevent too much clanging.
Then I remembered I had some 3” galvanized pipe with a 1/4” wall, so I will chop the existing axle, sleeve it, and then clam shell it as Gravy suggested (edit: I planned on replacing the spindles, so I just realized I can slide the brace on from one end, making less welding and the brace stronger!) I will plan on replacing eventually, but this will at least allow me to use this trailer in the meantime.
When I removed the ubolts, I found more hackery on the perches. Whoever did this never even welded them to the tube. No sweat, it’ll make it easier for me to brace the tube, then I’ll just fab new perches and weld on instead of trying to align the old ones perfectly.
Then I remembered I had some 3” galvanized pipe with a 1/4” wall, so I will chop the existing axle, sleeve it, and then clam shell it as Gravy suggested (edit: I planned on replacing the spindles, so I just realized I can slide the brace on from one end, making less welding and the brace stronger!) I will plan on replacing eventually, but this will at least allow me to use this trailer in the meantime.
When I removed the ubolts, I found more hackery on the perches. Whoever did this never even welded them to the tube. No sweat, it’ll make it easier for me to brace the tube, then I’ll just fab new perches and weld on instead of trying to align the old ones perfectly.
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The_Lobbster
Well-Known Member
Scrapped the repair idea. Cut the spindles off, discovered the old tube matches a 2.5” schedule 40 pipe, with about .120 wall. Sloppy fitment shown in first two pix.
So I did some looking, and found some drill pipe on KSL with 1/4” wall, picked up two 90” lengths for $51. And the spindle fitment is perfect. ID and spindle stub are 2.4”, so it’s a smooth, but good fit. I did some research on this drill pipe, and even the lowest grade they make in this size still has a yield strength of 74,000 PSI. A500 structural tube has a yield of 46,000, so this pipe should be PLENTY strong.
So I did some looking, and found some drill pipe on KSL with 1/4” wall, picked up two 90” lengths for $51. And the spindle fitment is perfect. ID and spindle stub are 2.4”, so it’s a smooth, but good fit. I did some research on this drill pipe, and even the lowest grade they make in this size still has a yield strength of 74,000 PSI. A500 structural tube has a yield of 46,000, so this pipe should be PLENTY strong.
The_Lobbster
Well-Known Member
Used some 3/8” thick spring plates I had laying around, with some new u bolts from oreillys.
Mounted a tire, which sucked because the sidewalls on these are stiff as heck. Wire wheeled the alloy wheel and put down a coat of primer. Hoping to have the other wheel mounted and painted by this weekend.
Next, I’ll be turning to the tongue and adding an adjustable unit.
Edit: photos added of painted wheels
Mounted a tire, which sucked because the sidewalls on these are stiff as heck. Wire wheeled the alloy wheel and put down a coat of primer. Hoping to have the other wheel mounted and painted by this weekend.
Next, I’ll be turning to the tongue and adding an adjustable unit.
Edit: photos added of painted wheels
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The_Lobbster
Well-Known Member
Finally somewhere. Painted the other wheel and threw it on. 18” deck height at level, which I’m extremely happy with. The dove tail will definitely get a mitre cut to gain a couple more inches, along with some rollers welded on. I have some LED’s from my old samurai I’m going to incorporate. Still waiting to get brake plates, and get it titled.
I’m into this trailer roughly $860 now, hoping to finish up under $1,000.
I’m into this trailer roughly $860 now, hoping to finish up under $1,000.
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