Jeep Speed Goat TJ, the anti-build thread

[Greg]

I know this looks similar to the last update, but it's a big step forward with figuring out how everything is going to fit. I had to run a longer upper link than it had before, due to the location of my upper link mount and since I finally had a welder again, I was able to tack in the threaded bungs and put the links back together.

With the axle housing at real close to full bump, the track bar is going to be close to the steering cylinder. The upper shock mounts are going to be built lower, more under the shock hoop, limiting my up-travel in the front. Not what I want, but like I said earlier, without chopping the frame I have to make some compromises. I'm shooting for 3-4" up travel with it setup like this, and still sitting lower than it was. Bringing the shock mounts under the shock hoop will be a stronger mount, plus it leans the ORI's in a few degrees, as well as being laid back.

I might play with building a new frame-side track bar mount. Try tuck it up a bit higher, as well as further outside the frame for a longer track bar. The PSC full-hydro cyl is sitting in its mount and I know exactly where the mount/skid needs to sit on the axle housing so I'll be welding that up soon and also doing final welding on the track bar mount on the axle. Probably add some additional gusseting to beef it up further.

 

[Greg]

While I wasn't working on the '67 Gladiator, I was tinkering with TJ parts... I finally got around to final welding on the narrowed Dana 60 front axle, the Artec truss being the main addition. I spent time heating up the cast steel, then once the welding was done, post-heating and letting it cool slowly. The new Miller 211 is a beast, laying down some HOT & beefy welds.

I did some cleanup, wire brushing welds and prepping it for paint. I got the new knuckles and steering arms out too. I had a few cans of Steel-It ready to go and used some silicone plugs to keep the threads paint-free. The Steel-It spray on so well, it's impressive stuff, lays down good and looks amazing!

Also bought some 1.5" x .250 DOM for the new track bar and steering links, plus a handful of 7/8" heims for the steering and track bar. Tomorrow I'll start cutting off the unneeded bump cans, brackets, etc. Hopefully soon I can get the gears & lockers installed and toss the axle under the TJ!

 

[Greg]

Oh, these parts arrived too.... Yukon 4340 shafts and Spicer SPL55-3X u-joints. Nice upgrade over the stock shafts that it had before! The long side is a '78-79 shaft, to make up for the shortened '89-91 housing.

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[Greg]

Yay, I didn't Greg myself!! I rolled the front axle back under the TJ to mock up all the clearances, bolted up the links, then set the ORI's in place at full bump.

The upper shock mounts are sitting at a 60* downward angle from the hoop, bringing the upper mount quite a bit further down than before. This decreased the up-travel at full bump more than really wanted, but it turned out to be good because things like the crank balancer, accessory drive brackets, track bar & steering cylinder, etc all have more room to clear. The front ORI's are tilted in about 5*'s and kicked 70*'s back at full bump (probably will change at ride height).

I really like how the slightly narrowed front axle is a closer match to the 65" wide Dana 70 out back. I'm still waiting on rod ends and parts to put the steering together the rest of the way, but it looks fine. With the upper shock mounts sitting under the shock hoop, I feel like they're much stronger. I plan to box those shock tabs and connect the outer fender tube to the shock tabs, adding further reinforcement.

I'm hoping I can get 5" up travel in the front, with a lower ride height than before on the coilovers. Oh, the tires are now 81" wide at the outside... meaning I don't have to drive over my fenders anymore!

 

[Greg]

I ordered a bunch of rod ends, adapters & needed items from Artec a week ago to finish up the track bar, steering arms, etc and they were supposed to be delivered on Saturday.... been watching for them and just got news that the package isn't able to be delivered OR returned. I'm guessing USPS beat up the box enough that the parts spilled out and got lost. Pretty shitty... but not a surprise. Just one more delay in getting this thing done.

 

[Greg]

Finally got the 2nd shipment of rod ends, threaded inserts, etc from Artec after the first order got lost. I was able to build the track bar, it's a couple inches longer than the previous one and uses bigger 7/8" rod ends. It's 33" long hole to hole, threaded all the way in.

I pressurized the ORI's with nitrogen and see what it looked like at ride height... 100 PSI in the lower chamber and 300 PSI in the uppers. New ORI's have sticky seals, so it took some effort to get them to ride height, but it finally popped up! This is with 4" of chrome showing on the shocks, the ride height looks great... but it might need another inch for a comfortable ride. Really digging the ORI's for how simple they are.

Next up, I was able to bolt up the PSC DE cylinder. I still need to cut the factory power steering frame mount off. I mocked up where the tie rods & joints will end up and it looks perfect. I'll probably need to add a small spacer under the steering arm for clearance. The track bar angle looks pretty decent at ride height.

At full bump, the steering cylinder ends are pretty tight with the frame side track bar mount, I'll have to watch it at full lock and make sure it all clears.

The frame height is sitting at 20.5 at this height, which is pretty ideal IMO!

 

[Greg]

Another piece of the puzzle, I mentioned the engine running rough last time I had it out... seems like the fuel pump wasn't pushing enough volume and pressure. I've had previous vehicles with external fuel pumps like the TJ and had problems, I'd much rather have an in-tank fuel pump with the gas keeping it cool while running. I really like the Goat Built Universal 18 Gallon Gas Tank Kit with the fill plate and optional GM sending unit that drops right in. It's a slick setup that should be very reliable over time. I found a nice GM sending unit that uses a Walbro pump, that should be more than capable of feeding the hungry LS3. The rotomolded fuel cell and fill plate components are very thick and high quality, this is a NICE upgrade!

I have to say, the customer service at Goat Built is unbeatable.... right after I submitted my order they called to verify, make some recommendations and changes and even saved me a little money. I can't recommend dealing with Goat Built enough, they're incredible folks!

 

[Greg]

So, to keep me honest and getting this thing back on the trail, I've made a check list... here's what I have left;

• Engine mount bolts
• T-Case x-member repair
• F&R brake line fixes
• Steering Res. relocation
• Fuel Cell mounting & plumbing (future work)
• New inner axle seals, kingpin seals
• Install gears & locker
• Remove manifolds, install headers
• Build exhaust, add O2 sensors
• Check shock mounts for clearance at flex
• T-Case skidplate mods
• Build engine skid plate
• Replace rear seal in Atlas
• Check steering for clearance
• Cut shifter gates
• Clean up rear raw steel
• Mount Milwaukee Packout
• Build Cooler mount
• Repair brake line

 

[kmboren]

Goat built was instrumental in our build and we wouldn't have it without Drew's help. We have the same exact tank in our buggy we just opted for the straight fill with built in fuel gauge float.

 

[Greg]

Been working my list and knocking things off one at a time!

The new flat belly skid plate was installed with a 1.5" drop, much better than the 4.5" drop skid plate it had previously. The 1.5" allows room for the crossmember for the t-case and matches up with the rear lower 4 link bracket. A 3" gain at the belly is pretty significant!

Also fixed the leak in the rear output shaft... common issue with older Atlas t-cases, apparently. New seal, star washer & nut.

Working on getting the air locker & gears installed in the front D60 next, still need to clearance the cap for the air line. Powder coated the front diff cover finally, it came out well.

The shorty headers I have don't fit, so I'm going to keep running the factory manifolds. Too bad, because the headers dump further back and would have helped routing the exhaust. I'm still planning to build new exhaust from the manifolds, back.

Wanted to see what round LED lights would look like on the push bar, so I burned in some mounts and set the light in place, I think I'll run them!

Also, I can't find a paint match for the cage for touch up to save my life.... I've bought 3 different Silver paints and they've all been wrong!

 

[Evolved]

Also, I can't find a paint match for the cage for touch up to save my life.... I've bought 3 different Silver paints and they've all been wrong!

When I painted it I believe I used just the Rustoleum hammered grey that didn’t “hammer” very well. This is me trying to remember 10 years ago when I struggle to remember why I just walked in to the kitchen.

 

[Greg]

When I painted it I believe I used just the Rustoleum hammered grey that didn’t “hammer” very well. This is me trying to remember 10 years ago when I struggle to remember why I just walked in to the kitchen.

That was going to be my next attempt!! Yeah, it doesn't look 'hammered' at all... but I'll pick some up. Thanks for posting up!

 

[N-Smooth]

3” at the belly is basically a mile. That’s awesome!

 

[kmboren]

Going to be ready for Delta?

 

[Greg]

Going to be ready for Delta?

We will see, trying to be ready for Memorial Day weekend. I really don't want a comp to be my first test run after all this work.

 

[Mouse]

Any thought to run some UHMW plastic on the belly skid?

 

[Greg]

Any thought to run some UHMW plastic on the belly skid?

I have some on the way, actually. I need to build a better skid plate for the engine and trans oil pans, with a piece UHMW on the bottom of that portion for sure.

I'm not sure if I'll have enough material to cover the t-case skid too, but I can always get more.

 

[Bart]

Nice work Greg. That is looking great. Now you've got me wondering about the rear seal on my Atlas. I may do a new seal there now while I have it drained and the inspection plate off.

 

[Greg]

Nice work Greg. That is looking great. Now you've got me wondering about the rear seal on my Atlas. I may do a new seal there now while I have it drained and the inspection plate off.

Mine was leaking pretty bad, the nut had backed off and the flange was moving front to back! It was a simple fix, but badly needed to be done.

 

[Greg]

Been working on this often as I can, crossing more & more items off the list... and adding some others. lol

I bought some Rustoleum Hammered Silver and it's about 6 shades lighter than the current cage paint. I didn't see a darker color when I was shopping, but I know there is one. I sprayed much of the front tube work and while I like the silver, I don't really want to paint ALL the tube work right now. Going to try find the darker Hammered and hope it's a closer match.

And my big speech about wanting an in-tank pump.... well, I decided it was simpler to just replace the external fuel pump and be happy with it, for now. I ordered a Walbro pump and it looks to be identical to the pump that was on it. Replacing it took 5 min, seems to work good now but the fuel pressure at the regualtor isn't reading more than 40 PSI.... should be 55-60. Might need a new regulator next. If that's the case, I'll keep the old pump as a spare.

I'll put the Goat Build 18 gallon fuel cell in place next Winter, when I have more downtime and can build new mounts, wire & plumb it up differently, etc.