Silly Willy
Well-Known Member
- Location
- American Fork Ut
Just throw some stainless steel lines under there. Then you'll be all Set.
Steve's 81 Toyota "angelo" build
- Thread starter sixstringsteve
- Start date
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
Hey, thanks Rick! Yeah, I'm not going to lie, I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. It's not a perfect fit, but it's about as good as I can get with an angle grinder.
Regarding the fuel lines, do you think it'd be better to cut out the U shaped section and replace with rubber hose, or to try and straighten that part out and shorten the overall length of the tubes? I have one of those little tubing benders (for up to 5/16), but I wonder how clean I could make it. What's the best way to cut the lines? Should I flare them after I cut them, or will they be ok with just hose clamps?
Rick, does your pickup have the lines bent at right angles like mine? Did you have to replace your hardline when you went to EFI?
Would that entail re-routing all the lines? What would the benefit of stainless lines be over what I have now? I read somewhere that the Toyota lines have an uncommon fitting, so I'm not sure how big of a pain that would be.
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Silly Willy
Well-Known Member
- Location
- American Fork Ut
Im just saying to get rid of the large bend. you could cut the lines on both sides, and add some stainless steel line as a filler piece so the line goes straight, or however you want to run it.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
That sounds like a good solution willy. I have never done anything like that before, so I wouldn't really know where to start. Would I get the stainless at Napa or home depot? I'm leaning towards rubber hose because I know how to work with it. I'd love to learn how to patch the stainless line in there. Can anyone point me to some resources of how to do that?
On another note, do we have any local Lehi welders that can help me weld that up tonight? My welder will do 3/16, and even 1/4 if I'm lucky, but it's pushing it.
On another note, do we have any local Lehi welders that can help me weld that up tonight? My welder will do 3/16, and even 1/4 if I'm lucky, but it's pushing it.
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Silly Willy
Well-Known Member
- Location
- American Fork Ut
They have little kits for it at the pepboys i work at, but thats in sandy. Im sure they have smiler kits at most parts stores.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
cool, I'll check it out.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
I'll be welding that up tonight, then hopefully mocking up some mounts so my tranny/tcase can support themselves without a jackstand.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
I got a little more done this weekend. I spend a good 6 hours sandblasting my wheels. got 'em down to bare metal, then primered and painted them.
I also got my tcase crossmember welded and painted
and I cut and replaced that section of fuel line:
I also got my tcase crossmember welded and painted
and I cut and replaced that section of fuel line:
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
Well, I took a weekend off at Moab and had a BLAST. Did escalator in my ifs tacoma, along with double whammy, hell's gate, and a few other fun obstacles. Discovered my new favorite trail: golden spike backwards (I'll probably like it even better when i run it forwards).
So this memorial day I got workin on my truck. It's dissapointing how little work gets done when I have the full day to work on it. All I did was get my tcase crossmember mounted to the frame. It was a lot of work, and I'm really happy with how it turned out. Just for the record, I HATE lying underneath what i'm welding.
pics:
TOTALLY flat belly
side shot of the crossmember and mount:
a better shot from the rear diff. I hope that driveline angle doesn't kill me. I may have to stretch it just for the driveline angle.
and this is how high the drivetrain sits inside the cab.
So this memorial day I got workin on my truck. It's dissapointing how little work gets done when I have the full day to work on it. All I did was get my tcase crossmember mounted to the frame. It was a lot of work, and I'm really happy with how it turned out. Just for the record, I HATE lying underneath what i'm welding.
pics:
TOTALLY flat belly
side shot of the crossmember and mount:
a better shot from the rear diff. I hope that driveline angle doesn't kill me. I may have to stretch it just for the driveline angle.
and this is how high the drivetrain sits inside the cab.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
More slow progress. Pulled the front axle tonight. Now I understand how the knuckles work. I still don't understand how to rebuild and shim them, but it doesn't seem too bad.
I'm wondering if I should cut and turn my knuckles. I've got dual cases, so the output shaft is moved 6 inches back. I've got a HP front third, so that'll help. But I have raised the t-case about 4" into the interior, I wonder how that'll affect my pinion angle. I'll have to mock it up tomorrow and take some pics of the pinion angle and decide if I can live with it or not. I like doing things the right way, and cutting and turning seems like the right way to do it, but it's a lot of work and $.
Front axle removed:
Housing out. Time to remove all those brackets and add a truss and clean her up.
I'm wondering if I should cut and turn my knuckles. I've got dual cases, so the output shaft is moved 6 inches back. I've got a HP front third, so that'll help. But I have raised the t-case about 4" into the interior, I wonder how that'll affect my pinion angle. I'll have to mock it up tomorrow and take some pics of the pinion angle and decide if I can live with it or not. I like doing things the right way, and cutting and turning seems like the right way to do it, but it's a lot of work and $.
Front axle removed:
Housing out. Time to remove all those brackets and add a truss and clean her up.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
another question. I want to keep it pretty low. I like a low truck with a flat belly and low COG, and big tires. Should I run a flat pitman arm? Will I have to knotch the frame to clear a flat pitman arm?
Also thinking of shaving the front diff. What are the thoughts out there on this? Is it worth it? Will I gain much clearance? Will I weaken my housing?
Also thinking of shaving the front diff. What are the thoughts out there on this? Is it worth it? Will I gain much clearance? Will I weaken my housing?
Panos
12Volt Specialist
- Location
- Salt lake City
looking good man
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
Thanks for the motivation Panos. Hopefully it's driving in a month or two. That may be too ambitious of a goal, but I think it's possible.
Tomorrow my band has a show, so I won't be working on it, but I should get a lot done on Saturday: grind off brackets on the front axle, clean it up, add gussets, paint it. Sandblast and paint leaves for the front. Cut off body mount on front, paint hi-steer, drill knuckles for 5th stud, rebuild front axle.
I have a SKY hanger, and I'm debating installing it. Would it give me anything that my current (stock) hangers don't? it looks a lot beefier, and I think I could move it forward an inch, but I wonder if this will give me steering problems.
I'll be mounting the IFS steering box soon. I've never done it before, so I have no clue what I'm doing. Any suggestions?
Tomorrow my band has a show, so I won't be working on it, but I should get a lot done on Saturday: grind off brackets on the front axle, clean it up, add gussets, paint it. Sandblast and paint leaves for the front. Cut off body mount on front, paint hi-steer, drill knuckles for 5th stud, rebuild front axle.
I have a SKY hanger, and I'm debating installing it. Would it give me anything that my current (stock) hangers don't? it looks a lot beefier, and I think I could move it forward an inch, but I wonder if this will give me steering problems.
I'll be mounting the IFS steering box soon. I've never done it before, so I have no clue what I'm doing. Any suggestions?
Panos
12Volt Specialist
- Location
- Salt lake City
yes instal it, if your mounts are stock than it will be a much improvement in strength
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
Cool, thanks panos. Im thinking of moving the hanger forward an inch as well. I hope I don't have steering issues with that and the 2" freed from the ruf.
Since you're doing an ifs steering conversion anyways, you might as well move the crossmember forward and just mount the box so that the steering works with the axle placement. I like the build! Where are you located in Lehi? I"m building my 'runner right now, and doing a lot of the same stuff that you're doing. I'm currently working on the ps box relocation...which I actually need to get off the computer and go do.....reading your thread inspired me! Off I go!
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
hey, take pics of your IFS steering box relocation for me, I'm still scared of mine. I'm over by Micron/IM Flash technologies. Feel free to come on over sometime.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
I do have a box, it's tapped for hydro-assist. I may still be interested in your setup though.
My ruf spring packs are about ready to go under my truck and I'll be moving my box forward too.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=587517
I'll be mounting mine with a flat pitman arm similar to this....
more info here
Toyota rears up front move the front axle forward about 2" from stock... Where you place that skymfg hanger can also influence how far forward your axle sits. I have my hanger about an inch forward from stock.
Moving the box forward makes it so your tie rod and drag link do not interfere under compression of the front driver's side tire. I'm tilting my box to run a flat pitman arm because I don't have a lot of clearance between my frame and my leafs for a dropped arm, and I'm planning on tilting mine enough so I wont need to notch the frame...
And as far as shims on your knuckles, the bottom ones locate the knuckle in relation to the axle shaft. So I'd stay with stock shimming on bottom. I think mine had two shims on bottom each measuring 0.020" so 40 thousandths.
As for the top, adding shims lessens pre load on your trunion bearings, less shims=more pre load. When I re built my front axle, I don't remember the shimming (.020 or .030") But It required 16-17 pounds on a pull scale to pull my knuckle side to side without felts or anything installed. Which is good for bigger tires, climbing around in rocks ruts and obstacles where you want your tires to point and stay put, less risk of any wobbles too...
But your progress is looking awesome! How's the firewall tub going? I might end up doing that if I get a low enough stance with my ruf packs here soon... Keep up the work and pics!! litte first gen yodies are sweet! I regret not owning one!
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=587517
I'll be mounting mine with a flat pitman arm similar to this....
more info here
Toyota rears up front move the front axle forward about 2" from stock... Where you place that skymfg hanger can also influence how far forward your axle sits. I have my hanger about an inch forward from stock.
Moving the box forward makes it so your tie rod and drag link do not interfere under compression of the front driver's side tire. I'm tilting my box to run a flat pitman arm because I don't have a lot of clearance between my frame and my leafs for a dropped arm, and I'm planning on tilting mine enough so I wont need to notch the frame...
And as far as shims on your knuckles, the bottom ones locate the knuckle in relation to the axle shaft. So I'd stay with stock shimming on bottom. I think mine had two shims on bottom each measuring 0.020" so 40 thousandths.
As for the top, adding shims lessens pre load on your trunion bearings, less shims=more pre load. When I re built my front axle, I don't remember the shimming (.020 or .030") But It required 16-17 pounds on a pull scale to pull my knuckle side to side without felts or anything installed. Which is good for bigger tires, climbing around in rocks ruts and obstacles where you want your tires to point and stay put, less risk of any wobbles too...
But your progress is looking awesome! How's the firewall tub going? I might end up doing that if I get a low enough stance with my ruf packs here soon... Keep up the work and pics!! litte first gen yodies are sweet! I regret not owning one!