Jeep Stretch YJ "Might as well" Build

SSR

Active Member
Location
Santaquin, UT
I decided to run a Northstar AGM battery, from what I have read they have a outstanding reputation.

Radiator is a Flexalite LS swap radiator/fan combo. For some reason Flexalite prefers a stand alone built-in temp control unit over using the PCM to control fan on/off. I chose to remove the fan control unit that comes with that setup, and instead used relays to trigger fan control from the PCM. So far it cycles on/off as it should.

Air cleaner and intake ducting has an issue I haven't fully resolved yet, the air filter slowly slides off the mating composite piece. The first filter slid off while the engine was running and received damage from landing on the floor. I wrote Spectre explaining what occurred, and asked if they had a suggestion to resolve the issue. While waiting for their response I tried acetone cleaning both parts to remove any residue, it helped but the filter has again backed off about 1/4". It's a big filter, and will get heavier as it loads up. I think ultimately I'm going to have to fab something to hold pressure against the end of the filter so gravity isn't pulling it off. Specter has sent out a new filter as well as the mating composite piece to try, but I'm going to fabricate something to "capture" it before trying, I don't want two damaged filters.
 

SSR

Active Member
Location
Santaquin, UT
Spent my time yesterday removing the botched paint job from the roll cage. Got about 1/2 of it off, I'll work on it more tomorrow.

I'm hoping tomorrow I receive the rebuild kit for the steering gear. Then I can put some effort into the hydro assist setup.

I've been trying to think of a way to reinforce the cage where the CO's will attach. Still haven't quite figured out a good solution.
 
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Bart

Registered User
Premium Member
Location
Arm Utah
You could triangulate from the upper rear corners of the cage and/or just behind the b pillar junctions.
 
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SSR

Active Member
Location
Santaquin, UT
Ok, I need some help and fresh eyes. I mounted up the hydro assist cylinder but didn't pay enough attention to the hose fittings. Now I have hose fitting interference at the pitman arm and the steering box at full bump.
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Is it ok to run the cylinder backwards, mounted to the tie rod like this?
IMG_5663.JPG
Better mounting location ideas? I want to keep the rig low but I'm running into problems at every turn.
 
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I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Supporting Vendor
Location
Utah
It's fine to run the cylinder that direction. You just have to take into account your hoses now need to have enough slack to move left and right, as well as up/down with the suspension.

Can you just rotate the ram so the fittings point more toward the back?
 
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SSR

Active Member
Location
Santaquin, UT
Can you just rotate the ram so the fittings point more toward the back?
I can rotate it so that it clears the pitman arm, but I will have to bump stop it to keep it from the lower fitting on the steering box.

My concern about simply rotating it to clear is it only has a few degrees of rotation before it would once again be into the pitman arm in front or track bar in back. If I could limit the tie rod rotation at the heim joints this might be an option.
 

SSR

Active Member
Location
Santaquin, UT
In that current configuration I am pretty sure the tubes those shocks are mounted to will bend if you ever bottom out the shocks through a high speed section.
I mounted my shocks into the cage. I used 2 strategies to ensure my mounting point won't bend. I ran a brace up to the b pillar where my harness bar is mounted, but more importantly I mounted my shocks so they can't bottom out on a big hit. Air bumps catch the jeep when both sides of the suspension compress at the same time. My shocks to fully collapse under articulation, but that is a "slow" event that doesn't stress the mount anywhere near what a bottoming event does.
You could triangulate from the upper rear corners of the cage and/or just behind the b pillar junctions.
What do you guys think of this? Will this offer the needed support to the shock mounting tube? I'm a little wary of putting supports in this area for safety sake, but as you can see it allows room for passengers noggins.
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Another option would be to tie to the frame here.
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SSR

Active Member
Location
Santaquin, UT
One of the main goals of this build was more occupant and cargo space which means mounting a fuel cell in the back is not an option. What I didn't anticipate when I decided to stretch the tub below the step, was that by keeping the fuel tank I would need to clearance the front of the wheel well to fit the tires. The thought of cutting up the tub I worked to stretch was a little painful. I procrastinated for a long time before giving in and making the cuts. I'll build a new inner fender, but this is work I wish I could've avoided. Looking back, I should have opted to cut and stretch in the wheel well, all this would have been a non issue. IMG_5729.JPGIMG_5647.JPG

Also had to cut the floor to clear the upper control arms. I'm holding to my plan to keep it reasonably low.
IMG_5649.JPG
 
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SSR

Active Member
Location
Santaquin, UT
Anyone have experience with the Harbor Freight 36" sheet metal brake? I'm thinking of picking on up to fab the inner wheel wells.
 

Greg

Wanderlusting
Admin
Anyone have experience with the Harbor Freight 36" sheet metal brake? I'm thinking of picking on up to fab the inner wheel wells.
Yeah, I have one... its decent, but you have to have plenty of clamping force. You need to work into the bend slowly if you're using thicker sheet metal.
 

SSR

Active Member
Location
Santaquin, UT
Yeah, I have one... its decent, but you have to have plenty of clamping force. You need to work into the bend slowly if you're using thicker sheet metal.
Is it worth the purchase price, I think they are $200ish with coupon. I've also considered building one from scrap steel I have, but realistically, it will take me a week to fab something up.
 

Greg

Wanderlusting
Admin
Is it worth the purchase price, I think they are $200ish with coupon. I've also considered building one from scrap steel I have, but realistically, it will take me a week to fab something up.
Hmm... I must have a smaller one, because I know it wasn't that much. I'll try find it.

**edit** - Yep, I have the crappy little 30"... the 36" looks like it's much better. What do the reviewers say? That's what i use to determine if certain HF tools are worth the money.
 
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SSR

Active Member
Location
Santaquin, UT
Check out Improved Racing for the F-Body oil pan trap door. I compete in my car and it is in off camber and near vertical situations way more than a recreational rig will ever see and I havent lost oil pressure since installing the trap door baffle. - http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-pan-baffles/ls1-camaro-firebird-body-racing-oil-pan-baffle-p-30.html
Ordered the Improved Racing oil pan baffle today. Now I need to source a F-Body oil pan. Anyone have one lying around?
 
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