Jeep Stretch YJ "Might as well" Build

SSR

Active Member
Location
Santaquin, UT
So I'm using a Torque locker in the front D60. My axles/unit bearings slide in to within about 1/4"- 3/8" of the unit bearing seating then get tight not wanting to easily slide further. Do you guys think it could be spline related at that point?
Did you ever figure this out? I don't recall any excessive "tightness" putting in my unit bearings, other than the O-ring drag...
No, I haven't figured out the cause. Came out easy, put the Torque locker in and that last 1/4" just doesn't want to go. I've got some bare OEM 1550 joint shafts I need to try.
I came across a discussion on FB about this issue. It appears it's a fairly common issue on at least the SD to have to tap the axle shafts the last little bit into a locker. I also watched YOuTube video showing a mechanic really getting after it to remove the shaft from a stock carrier. My shafts slid right out of the stock carrier, but are tight going into the new locker. I'm going to tap them in and try it out.
 

Gravy

Edd China of Dirtbikes
Supporting Member
I had to grind a taper/ chamfer the splines on my stock sd front axle stubs with an angle grinder to fit them into new unit bearings FYI.


Also if you haven't already got all the paint off your cage: aeresol aircraft paint remover/ stripper then a pressure washer works awesome as a Time saver.

I stripped a powder coated motorcycle chassis a couple months ago to bare metal in just an hour of work vs a lifetime with an angle grinder and wire wheel.
 
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SSR

Active Member
Location
Santaquin, UT
I had to grind a taper/ chamfer the splines on my stock sd front axle stubs with an angle grinder to fit them into new unit bearings FYI.


Also if you haven't already got all the paint off your cage: aeresol aircraft paint remover/ stripper then a pressure washer works awesome as a Time saver.

I stripped a powder coated motorcycle chassis a couple months ago to bare metal in just an hour of work vs a lifetime with an angle grinder and wire wheel.
I didn't even think of trying aircraft paint remover. That would have saved me a lot of time, especially in the joints where I couldn't reach with the wire wheel.
 

SSR

Active Member
Location
Santaquin, UT
Got the roll cage in and bolted down yesterday. Does anyone have experience with aftermarket or good OEM 3-point seatbelts I could utilize? In warm weather when the top is off, I plan to run 4-point harnesses on a removable harness bar. In cold weather when the hard top is on I will remove the harness bar and run 3-point seat belts allowing passengers access to back seat. I thought about OEM Side-X-Side take outs, not sure if they are better or worse than the aftermarket belts.IMG_6289.JPG
 

bryson

RME Resident Ninja
Supporting Member
Location
West Jordan
Can't you just use OEM Jeep belts? They've got to be easy to find, and being an OEM part, they should be better quality than most aftermarket belts.
 
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SSR

Active Member
Location
Santaquin, UT
Can't you just use OEM Jeep belts? They've got to be easy to find, and being an OEM part, they should be better quality than most aftermarket belts.
That was my first thought and plan, just use OEM belts in the factory locations. Unfortunately somewhere along the way I misplaced that idea and put a piece of tube directly in the space the OEM retractor previously occupied. I can add another seatbelt bung low on the B-pillar and mount the retractor on the roll bar. Before I went that route I figured I would explore other options.
 

LJTim

Active Member
Location
Herriman, UT
It's coming along. Looks great with the cage dropped in. Let me know if you need a hand with some simpler tasks in order to get this baby ready for Jamboree. I'd be happy to help bolt in seats, drive shafts, hinges, or whatever.
 
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SSR

Active Member
Location
Santaquin, UT
It's coming along. Looks great with the cage dropped in. Let me know if you need a hand with some simpler tasks in order to get this baby ready for Jamboree. I'd be happy to help bolt in seats, drive shafts, hinges, or whatever.
Thanks Tim, I really appreciate the offer. If I were feeling better I would gladly take you up on it, but I've been a little under the weather for about a week now. As it is im only able to work on it for short periods then I have to take a break.

Did you get your axle swap finished up?
 

LJTim

Active Member
Location
Herriman, UT
Thanks Tim, I really appreciate the offer. If I were feeling better I would gladly take you up on it, but I've been a little under the weather for about a week now. As it is im only able to work on it for short periods then I have to take a break.

Did you get your axle swap finished up?
Dang. Hope you feel better. The offer still stands. Yeah, I finished last night. I was just about to post a couple finished photos.
 
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I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Supporting Vendor
Location
Utah
If you haven't already, make sure your front shock hoops are connected at the tops with some sort of crossover tube. Without bracing them to each other, they will end up fatiguing and breaking off the frame.

Looking good! And those seats look really comfy. :)
 

SSR

Active Member
Location
Santaquin, UT
If you haven't already, make sure your front shock hoops are connected at the tops with some sort of crossover tube. Without bracing them to each other, they will end up fatiguing and breaking off the frame.

Looking good! And those seats look really comfy. :)
Thanks it's getting close to leaving the garage, for a minute or two.

I do have the shock hoops braced. I was trying to use the crossbrace as the PS reservoir, couldn't get the air out of it though.
IMG_6339.JPG
 

SSR

Active Member
Location
Santaquin, UT
Anyone have any 16" 2.5" 125lb springs laying around I can get right now? I've already tried Desert Speed Shock Tuning and Midnight 4x4.
 

SSR

Active Member
Location
Santaquin, UT
I badly wanted to take it out to feel it out a bit, for a fleeting moment I even thought about joining the Hangover run. Then I remembered it won't fit between the wheel wells on the trailer:confused:. So my morning was spent throwing this together. I think they can also serve as the frame for the drive over fenders when I build them.IMG_6353.JPG
 

SSR

Active Member
Location
Santaquin, UT
Well I did it, got it out and ran it around a bit. At first I went easy, listening for noises, smelled around as well as 4 degrees lets you smell. Then I proceeded to flex it on a few obstacles checking clearances. Drove it around a bit more. Then I climbed some stuff, even in the snow this thing went all over the place. It was awesome! I can't believe the difference between it and my TJ.
Not to say everything was perfect, I compiled a list of items that concern me that I'll need to address. What a great way to start 2019. IMG_6345.JPGIMG_6346.JPGIMG_6347.JPGIMG_6348.JPGIMG_6349.JPGIMG_6351.JPG
 

Bart

Registered User
Supporting Member
Location
Arm Utah
Wow, it's looking great and looks like its working very well. I had a similar problem with my trailer and ended up pushing the fenders out 1.5" on each side and now it fits. Luckily the offset on the trailer wheels allowed for the extra space for the fender wells.
 

SSR

Active Member
Location
Santaquin, UT
Wow, it's looking great and looks like its working very well. I had a similar problem with my trailer and ended up pushing the fenders out 1.5" on each side and now it fits. Luckily the offset on the trailer wheels allowed for the extra space for the fender wells.
Thanks Bart . Moving the fenders out is a great idea! I went and looked mine over to see if I can move them out, unfortunately it's a no-go on the current trailer wheels. I will probably just fab the drive over wheel wells.
 
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