Which rv/5th wheel solution for full time?

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
they seem kinda heavy too, and that would limit my ability to flat tow behind them.

As far as diesel pushers go, are there any motors to avoid?
 

Pile of parts

Well-Known Member
Location
South Jordan
A slide in camper will get small very fast, even with slide outs.

Agreed, a slide in camper of any size will get very small to live in! The other downsides are; You'll need a 1 ton dually - to which your "house" is attached to. Sure, you can drop it off for extended stays. I'd recommend electric jacks. Price them out - you'll be surprised by how much trailer (5th wheel or bumper pull) you can get for the price of a truck bed camper with slide outs - new or used.
On the upside, you could certainly pull an enclosed trailer with the Miata/bikes/etc. Proper hitches would be important as the camper will most likely extend beyond the end of the truck. It's not bad for extended weekend trips but I couldn't see living in it full time. However, I do seem to recall you once posting about small houses. This would certainly qualify and probably win for least square footage.
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
they seem kinda heavy too, and that would limit my ability to flat tow behind them.

As far as diesel pushers go, are there any motors to avoid?

CAT is no longer in the OTR engine manufacturing game but their parts availability are still great. Cummins and Detroit are about the same as parts accessability, pretty good overall.

Personally, I like a sleeved diesel engine vs. a non-sleeved engine but that is just me. If a rebuild ever is needed it can be done in-frame.

I would suggest sticking to the parameters I listed earlier if you are looking for something that performs descent, 1 HP per 100 pounds of weight and/or 45 pounds of weight for every foot-pound of torque. The bigger the coaches go the heavier they get and engine sizes get larger, but power to weight ratios are fairly consistant in "most" cases. I say "most" because like everything else, there are exceptions. There are some that are a bit undersized in my opinion. One that sticks in my mind is a buddies Discovery that only has a 275 hp Cummins B engine. Moves out OK, but really struggles on the grades, especially when he is towing his trailer.

Our old 91 Beaver was borderline, it weighed right @ 29k pounds with a 300HP CAT 3208. It did fair but it was only coupled with a four-speed Allison tranmission, had it had the MD3060 six-speed I am sure it would have done better as it would have had wider spaced gearing. That said, if you end up going older, I would recommend avoiding the old two-stroke Detroits (6V and 8V engines) as they are not environmentally friendly and hard if not next to impossible to pass emissions if needed. My old 3208 CAT was borderline as well. I got it burning clean but in CA they don't even want anything to do with the old V-8 CAT engines. Also, the 3208 CAT, while a pretty good engine, is not a sleeved and not as high miler as many newer diesels so when a rebuild is needed the entire engine will need to be removed to bore and machine. Many of the coaches that these V-8 CAT's come in are not the easiest to remove the engines in. I helped my uncle do his in his 1988 Beaver Marquis and the we had to cut the rear crossmember out and make a bolt-in replacement as the coach was obviously built around the frame/engine/trans. My counsins 1987 Vogue was the same way with the 3208 CAT engine. Luckily mine never gave me any problems and when I sold it she had 129k miles on her which from my understanding is pretty good for that engine so I wasn't expecting too awfully many more. Many of the newer diesel engines they are just getting broke in at that mileage. So would I avoid the older CAT V-8, depends on the deal you were able to get whether or not you could justify putting money into it if it ever gave out on you. I would definetly avoid the older 2-stroke Detroits though.

Mike.
 

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Vehicular limbo
So, you've mentioned tiny houses before, and I know you've seen the cargo container conversions that are out there. So I just scanned real quick and I'm seeing full size diesel tractors with sleeper cabs starting around 15k. No idea what kind of condition a used semi for 15k is going to be in, but what about a semi tractor pulling a "tiny house" style cargo box conversion on a trailer? Get a low enough trailer and you could roll the pickup or Miata or whatever up there too. I'm thinking for what you're going to spend on a big-ass toy hauler and tow rig, you could rig up a pretty sweet semi truck/trailer combo.

You probably wouldn't need a semi to pull a converted cargo trailer, but I was thinking the sleeper cab might be nice while you're on the road between destinations.
 

1adam12

THE BEAST
Location
MAGNA
Work van. Convert it to 4wd. Put bikes and a work bench in the back and pull a bumper pull behind it. And don't forget the free candy signs on the sides.
 

carsonc1974

Active Member
Work van. Convert it to 4wd. Put bikes and a work bench in the back and pull a bumper pull behind it. And don't forget the free candy signs on the sides.
This is what I was kinda thinking. Newer nv4500, sprinter, or other high roofed van converted into workshop/ storage, and pull a bumper pull trailer.
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
I love the sprinter vans, but I worry that they won't be able to flat tow much, especially once they've been loaded up with ammenities. I'll have to research the towing capacity of a sprinter.
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
We went to look at some more rvs yesterday. Here's what we learned.

most Class cs are too small. However, we found a jayco seneca FRED (front engine diesel) super c built on a freightliner chassis that was incredible. It was a 37 foot diesel puller with a huge motor. It was also $225k, but it would do quite nicely. I'd be open to something like this but used. 10k tow rating. This is the model:

http://www.jayco.com/products/class-c-motorhomes/2015-seneca/


we also checked out a 34' class a freightliner (I forgot the model). $235k. I liked it too, but I preferred the class c plus Mainly because it had tons more storage space.

I also couldn't resist looking at toy haulers again. These are still my favorite. I love the layout, the garage, the storage areas. Just don't love the weight on them. I think a toy hauler would be the most practical once we got there and parked, but I'm worried that the size would make it tough to find camping spots.
 
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sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
We also stopped by mountain shadows and talked to a nice guy from holland who sold his house and has been full timing for 4 months. Super nice guy.

He had a smaller 5th wheel (35' or so) non toy hauler. he was towing it witg an extended cab duramax that didn't look too huge. He had 3 mountain bikes with him so I stopped to ask him what his solution was.

He stays in locations for 14 days at a time, and puts the bikes inside the 5th wheel for travel. Not ideal, he said, but not bad. When he gets to camp he unloads them and stores them under the tongue and locks them to the frame. He said it works fine.

I asked him if he wishes he had gone with a class a. He said he likes the 5th wheel because by the time you unhook a toad from a class a, you could have unhooked your 5th wheel from your truck, so to him it wasn't a huge time savings.
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
On our way out, we saw 2 huge rigs that were too big for the camp spits there, so they had to park on the side of the road.

One was a 5th wheel towed by a semi tractor.

The other was a big class a with a dual rear axle, pulling an enclosed trailer behind it. It looked way too big to maneuver well in and out of camp spots. So I think that option is probably out for me.

talking about toads (the vehicle towed behind a motorhome), my wife and I discussed a few options. I think we will be more inclined to explore the remote areas if the states more than the urban areas (though we will do that too). So a true 4x4 makes sense. In order to flat tow a 4x4, it needs to have a manual transmission and a manual tcase (I believe). A few potential rigs:

- Honda crv. No 4 low, which may limit us

- Stock TJ. I'm a little worried about theft with a rag top. I'd probably want a hard top.

- 5 speed 3rd gen 4runner. I like this idea, especially if I can find one with the 2.7L. There are tough to dine with lower miles.

- 5 speed tacoma single cab. Either the 2.7 or 3.4 or 4.0. I saw a 95 yesteday. Pretty clean. 3.4 5 speed. They wanted $4500, which seemed about right till I saw it had 280k miles on it. Forget that.
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
I asked him if he wishes he had gone with a class a. He said he likes the 5th wheel because by the time you unhook a toad from a class a, you could have unhooked your 5th wheel from your truck, so to him it wasn't a huge time savings.

I would disagree with this. When flat-towing our Jeep, we can be disconnected in less than a minute and hooked back up in 2-3 minutes. HUGE difference between that and a 5th wheel or bumper pull for that matter. We have traveled with both and are sitting in the lawn chairs enjoying a cold one while watching the others get camp set up.

Closer comparison would be when I haul the Jeep in the enclosed trailer. That takes me about 10 minutes to unload the Jeep and about 20 minutes to load and strap down inside.


. So a true 4x4 makes sense. In order to flat tow a 4x4, it needs to have a manual transmission and a manual tcase (I believe). A few potential rigs:

- Honda crv. No 4 low, which may limit us

- Stock TJ. I'm a little worried about theft with a rag top. I'd probably want a hard top.

- 5 speed 3rd gen 4runner. I like this idea, especially if I can find one with the 2.7L. There are tough to dine with lower miles.

- 5 speed tacoma single cab. Either the 2.7 or 3.4 or 4.0. I saw a 95 yesteday. Pretty clean. 3.4 5 speed. They wanted $4500, which seemed about right till I saw it had 280k miles on it. Forget that.

Automatic transmission equipped vehicles can be towed as long as they have a "Neutral" position in the transfer case. Some AWD vehicles can be flat-towed if there is some kind of sequence to go through to disconnect the transfer case or an option to add to the vehicle.

I have also installed a few driveshaft and or lube pumps manufactured by a company called Ramco that have worked quite well. To be honest look into some campgrounds and you will almost inherently see Jeeps as the most common toad. They are hands down one of the easiest vehicles to set up for flat-towing, if not the easiest.

Mike.
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
Mike, what are your thoughts on a FRED? (Front Engine Diesel) super c? I really think that's the way I'm leaning for the moment.
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
if it could, I'd keep it in a heartbeat. Unfortunately it's got the awd system, without a true neutral t-case position, so I think it'd be a tricky setup. However, if i could make it work, i will, because I absolutely love this car.
 

BlueWolfFab

Running Behind
Location
Eagle Mountain
Not sure on the yotas, but my H3 is full-time too, and can be flat towed by putting the Tcase in neutral by holding the 2H and 4L buttons at the same time until a red "N" light comes on.
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
if it could, I'd keep it in a heartbeat. Unfortunately it's got the awd system, without a true neutral t-case position, so I think it'd be a tricky setup. However, if i could make it work, i will, because I absolutely love this car.


unhook the drive lines or a tcase swap, I guess? (I'd buy a trailer?).
 
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sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
I'll need a car to run around in. I don't want to be driving the RV to the laundrymat or grocery store. Our honda fit would be a fantastic toad if we didn't ever plan on dirt roads. Since I plan on dirt roads to go backpacking, mountain biking, and camping, I'd like something light, but with a true 4-lo.
 
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