YJ 1 tons and links build

[Bart]

Nice, really like the ORI's.

 

[xtremexj]

Lookin' good! There's just something cool about the look of a comp cut Jeep!!

 

[1993yj]

Got the rears installed today. Everything clears by fractions of inches, except for the valve at the top of the strut to charge it. I need to find some sort of hose that is ~6" long, will thread into the body where the current schrader valve is, and has a schrader valve on the end of it. Then I can turn the body 180 degrees so that I don't have any clearance issues, but can still charge the strut. Any ideas where to find something like this? Google only finds extensions for filling tires. This would be fine if they had a 90 degree part that hooked onto the current schrader valve, and could be left on permanently. All of the ones I have found say not to leave on, and I am afraid that they wouldnt handle the high pressures of the strut.

 

[I Lean]

You'll just need to figure out what type of fitting that schrader valve uses where it threads into the body of the shock, then get a 90 degree version of that. It could be pipe thread, or more likely an O-ring fitting. Take the schrader valve out and take it to Hose and Rubber or Evco, and you should be able to get what you need.

 

[1993yj]

I am thinking that it is pipe thread. Looks like it is threaded in with some Teflon. I will hit up Evco and see what they have.

 

[Rock Taco]

Can you cut a hole in the back side of the shock tower to gain access that way?

 

[1993yj]

After playing around a bit it looks like I don't need as much clearance to attach the fill hose as I originally thought. I think I might be able to have just enough room without modifying anything. Need to get the front done and then I will flip the struts around and see.

 

[1993yj]

Finally got the front shock mounts tacked and cycled the suspension. There will be 2" more drop, but my jack was in the way. Now that I know all of the mounts are in good spots need to find the time to weld it all up. After that is done the suspension will be complete and I can finally move on to the hydro steering.

 

[1993yj]

Driveshafts have been modified and are back in, and exhaust is done. Tires are here too. Now comes the fun of mounting them.

 

[1993yj]

Tires mounted. Shock towers all welded up and braced. Rears are braced to the roll cage tie ins, front has removable crossbar to tie the 2 together. Orbital also installed. Need to figure out where to fit the filter/reservoir and mount the ram, then steering will be done and just finishing up brake lines will be left. Should be standing on its own feet soon.

 

[Bart]

Very nice and clean work. Looking great. From the looks of it you'll be on the trail soon.

 

[1993yj]

Thanks. It's coming slowly as I am just working on it when I find time. Not in too much of a rush during winter. I figure 2 more full days and she will be ready for a test drive. Hoping that happens sometime in Feb. I need to find time to ski still.

 

[1993yj]

Brake lines are in, rear limit strap is in, rear bumper is on and tire carrier is back on (although it may need to be modified a bit to fit the 40" spare). Rear end is basically done.

 

[1993yj]

Spare tire fits. My laundry list is getting shorter.

 

[Bart]

Very clean build. Love it.

 

[Rock Taco]

Looks good. Is that ride height?

 

[1993yj]

No. Rear will be about 4" higher. Currently it's just sitting on the stops in the ORIs.

 

[1993yj]

Got the steering and brakes done (poor mans park brake for the trail with the ball valve plumbed in line of the rear brakes), also notched the front bumper for running my winch line to the front suck down point, help avoid cutting the rope on a rock. Took it for a test drive tonight, and check clearances as much as I could by using my trailer to flex. I still need to dial in the shocks (the front in the pic is about 1" higher than I would like), and the brakes suck, mushy all the way to the floor. I am debating between doing a double diaphram booster out of a 95 YJ and a larger master cylinder, or doing front caliper brackets that will allow me to run 3/4 ton brakes like I have on the rear instead of the larger 1 tons that are currently on there. I have heard of mixed results with both options. Some people put on the bigger booster and MC and everything is great, for others it doesn't change anything. I at least think with the smaller 3/4 calipers they would be sized better to my stock booster and MC setup. I do have limited space in front of my MC though due to my reservoir for my hydro steering, so if the larger MC and booster are much longer then that will cause some issues which the 3/4 ton calipers would not have.

Any insight to my brake dilema is appreciated.

 

[I Lean]

Master cylinder: Cardone 10-1534. IIRC, it should bolt up to your booster, but you'll have to adjust the pushrod length to get it to work right. Autozone seems to have the best price on it....$16ish, plus a core charge.

 

[1993yj]

I should probably also mention that I am running chevy knuckles, so chevy calipers, which I hear are not as good as the ford calipers.

And another thought I just had was vacuum. I had the vacuum lines going to the front D30 that I just pulled off and capped. I am now wondering if there may be a leak there contributing to the bad brakes.