ZMotorSports 2011 JKUR Build Thread

glockman

I hate Jeeps
Location
Pleasant Grove
How does the 6L80/90 compare to the 4L80 in parasitic drag? If I'm not mistaken the reason for the 6.0 Chevy trucks getting so much worse mileage than the 5.3's is largely due to the 4L80. Does the 6L80 have the same issue? The gear ratio's are fantastic on and the tap shift would be so useful off road. The 42RLE is a pile. In 4Lo it shifts from 1 to 2 and 2 to 1 at the worst times.
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Location
West Haven
X2

The way you write, I feel like I have been hanging out in your shop, watching this unfold!

Thanks for sharing!
Thank you. I appreciate the comments. I'm glad I am able to communicate the process in a manner that is well received.


How does the 6L80/90 compare to the 4L80 in parasitic drag? If I'm not mistaken the reason for the 6.0 Chevy trucks getting so much worse mileage than the 5.3's is largely due to the 4L80. Does the 6L80 have the same issue? The gear ratio's are fantastic on and the tap shift would be so useful off road. The 42RLE is a pile. In 4Lo it shifts from 1 to 2 and 2 to 1 at the worst times.
The 6L80 /6L90 are both low friction dual clutch transmissions so a little different animal than their predecessors.

I agree, the 42RLE is a POS. I think even the 3.8 liter engine could have been a much more viable option had it been equipped with a better 5 or even 6 speed transmission behind it.

Mike
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Location
West Haven
During Saturday's work I was able to pretty much wrap up the chassis. If all I wanted to do was throw the engine in, drop the body and get it running I think I could have accomplished that easily by now. Unfortunately it’s all of the little details that take so much more time. The downside to rushing an engine swap (or anything for that matter) is that the little details such as dealing with clearances, chafing potentials and heat issues that will be the difference between a vehicle that will run trouble free for many miles and years or one that will very problematic.

I wanted to be able to use the small stabilization bracket on top if the alternator so it took a little tweaking and a small standoff then some bead blasting and paint and it looks OEM.


I also rewrapped the alternator wire with split loom and used an Adel clamp for strain relief.




I routed the alternator cable under the throttle body but high enough to keep it up off of the steam tube that runs across from head to head.


Next I addressed the transmission cooler lines. I wanted to secure them to the engine and keep from fatigue cracking.


Bent up a small bracket out of 1” strap. Bead blasted and painted.


Installed using the OEM tab on the lines.


I then replaced the oil passage block off plate with a boss equipped to thread my analog oil pressure sensor into for my oil pressure gauge on my A-pillar.


While I was at it I wrapped the sending unit wire with abrasion resistant wrap.


EVAP line with abrasion resistant wrap ready to install.


Installed the EVAP line and fuel line (also wrapped for abrasion protection) and ran them down the back of the engine and transmission. I also wrapped the area around where the exhaust will be routed with heat reflective material.


I installed the OEM GM wire harness onto the engine and down the back to the transmission.








Adel clamp to add strain relief to the main wire harness.


I didn’t tie the wiring and fuel too tight as on a 4WD vehicle you want them to be able to float a little and not pull so tight as they will tug at connections or lines/wiring.

Ground distribution is critical to a modern engine so make sure to ground to a threaded boss and use star washers against the block or head as they dig in and provide the proper ground.


After the engine harness was installed I moved rearward and replaced the fuel pump as well as removed the fill tube in order to replace it with the new revised fill tube with a flap valve to prevent spit back.


You can tell if yours is equipped with the new check valve by the large mid-section.


Lastly I relocated the EVAP canister. Removed it from the factory location and moved it above the rear axle and incorporated the GM closed loop feedback system EVAP vent valve and fuel tank pressure sensor into it.


Here is my EVAP canister after relocation. I could have left it where it was but by relocating it the void left really clears up some valuable space where I want to place my common chamber muffler. Plus it will be very protected above the rear axle.


Completed closed loop feedback EVAP system with GM’s fuel tank pressure sensor and vent valve. Also inside the Chrysler ESIM (EVAP System Integrity Monitor) there is a shuttle valve that you want to pin in place to keep it from moving and allow the GM system to function unobstructed.

Also in the picture you can see the new fill tube. There was a TSB out a couple years ago with the addition of the new fill tube which has a check valve to prevent spit back which the early JK’s are known for.


Here is where I crossed the chassis wiring loom over to the driver’s side. I also installed some OEM style loom retainers as the driveshaft resides just below and you want the wiring to stay put.


Here I tie wrapped the chassis loom up to the front where it will plug into the factory GM engine harness.


Here is the driver’s side downstream O2 sensor connector. Remember the upstream one is located on the engine harness.


At this point the chassis is now ready to accept the body. Next up is to prep the body then marry the two back up.

Thanks for looking.

Mike
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Location
West Haven
I had big plans to get the body ready to drop yesterday, but unfortunately I didn’t get any shop time due to the winter storm we had. We woke up to this. Three plus inches of white shit and still falling.








It quit snowing around noon and this is what it looked like after 3+ hours of snow removal.










At least the sun came out and helped melt some of it, except where the drive is shaded. The only downside of a north facing home and shop.

By the time I was done moving snow I was spent and not in the mood to go out into the shop and work so nothing happened on the Jeep yesterday.

Mike
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Location
West Haven
I had to clear another inch if heavy, wet snow when I got home last night before I was able to get a little work done on the Jeep body, more specifically, the engine bay.

I removed the OEM radiator and automatic A/C condenser but left my stacked plate transmission cooler in place.




Actually the package was pretty clean for having over 90k miles on it and being flat-towed behind our coach for probably another 40k miles over the past 7 years. Very little debris trapped in the A/C condenser and that was between my condenser and trans cooler. It may be worth removing the grille and unbolting the cooler to clean once every other year or so just as a preventative measure.


New heavy duty dual pass radiator at the ready. Time to swap over the rubber side flaps and lower valance from the OEM setup. Many don’t run these but I think they aid in getting the airflow where it’s supposed to be.




New radiator and manual transmission A/C condenser installed and fastened in place.




I’m using a 19” PWM outrunner fan from a 2016 SS Camaro.




Next I installed some new heater hoses as these will be difficult to access with the truck/SUV engine’s intake manifold. The LS3 still allows easy access but the truck/SUV intake is just a couple inches taller.


Lastly I tackled the wiring along the cowl. I have added a few wires for accessories over the years and I have also removed one or two so I cleaned up the wiring a bit and rather than have three or four split looms, I opted to get everything ready to place in one split loom. It will reside along with the OEM one that runs along the back of the firewall/cowl area.




One last picture of my low-rider for the evening.


I also had a fellow Jeep club member come by the shop last night to purchase my NP241OR RockTrac transfer case. That was the last item from my Jeep that I was selling so everything from the original drivetrain that I’m not using is out if my shop.

I think I have another hour or maybe two and the body is ready to drop onto the chassis.

Thanks for looking.

Mike
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Location
West Haven
A little more progress was made last night, but first, look what finally arrived today. I ordered these on a Black Friday sale and they were back ordered until now.

37x12.50x17 Nitto Ridge Grapplers. They will be mounted on my new Raceline Avenger 17x9 wheels.








After drooling over my babies new shoes for a few minutes, I prepped the body to be mated back with the chassis. I used a couple of plumb bobs, one on the passenger’s front and another on the driver’s rear to determine placement of the chassis under the body.




Getting closer.


TOUCHDOWN!!! The body has landed on the chassis and it’s a beautiful fit. The two areas I was most concerned with were the heater hoses between the firewall and the intake manifold. You can see there is adequate clearance.


The second area of concern was the A/C lines coming through the firewall from the evaporator and there is a good couple of inches of clearance there.


Look at that sexy beast in there. A lot of wiring left but it’s getting closer.


A few shots of the underside of the engine and you can see the clearances.






EVAP clearance is fantastic and all hoses and fill tube connected.


I bolted the body down and measured for driveshafts once I set it down to ride height so I can call and order them today.

Thanks for looking.

Mike
 

rholbrook

Premium Member
Supporting Member
Location
Kaysville, Ut
I still get blown away by your attention to detail. Even though you have never put an LS in a JKU you still have enough foresight to think through the cooling lines being near the fire wall and you put a larger piece of hose on the cooling line and zip ty it in place to protect it from rubbing. Seriously, incredible planning and work Mike.
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Location
West Haven
Sweet, that LS looks right at home and the new shoes will make a big difference. Keep the updates coming, I look forward to them every day.
The LS does look awesome in there! Very clean work as always!
Thanks guys. I appreciate the comments. I agree, that engine looks right at home in the Jeep engine bay.

I'll try to keep the updates coming. Last night I was getting so excited I almost forgot to take pictures though.:D

Mike
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Location
West Haven
I still get blown away by your attention to detail. Even though you have never put an LS in a JKU you still have enough foresight to think through the cooling lines being near the fire wall and you put a larger piece of hose on the cooling line and zip ty it in place to protect it from rubbing. Seriously, incredible planning and work Mike.
Wow, thanks Russ. I am flattered by your comments.

Granted I have never put an LS into a Jeep but I've done enough engine swaps into race cars, street rods and muscle cars to kind of have an idea of what things to expect or plan ahead for, although there are always surprises but it seems like my theory of the 7 P's is paying off. The 7 P's that I live by are Proper Prior Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance. I try to apply that to everything I do and sometimes it pays off.:cool:

Thanks again for the comments.

Mike
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Location
West Haven
Last night was a very productive evening.

I started by removing the OEM split loom from my battery cables and replaced it with some abrasion resistant wrap. One cable is my ground that attaches to the body and the other is the positive to the TIPM.


I worked on getting the cooling system sealed up so I could pull a vacuum on it and ensure there were no leaks. Heater hoses connected and upper & lower radiator hoses installed. The lower hose took a little time as I had to move some things around to make room for the C300 connector which is the main connector between the chassis and body. I was trying to locate it where nothing would rub against it yet still have it protected. Also running through the same area are my transmission cooler lines. Lastly I mocked my intake tube and air filter up as the upper hose and hose from the steam port runs over the intake duct.


After all of that I pulled a vacuum and the system held the remainder of the night so I know I have a tight cooling system. That was a relief due to all of the interferences that I had just dealt with.


Then I moved on to mounting my master cylinder to the booster and mounting my ABS pump/module. This will allow me to start laying out wiring on the driver’s side if the engine bay.


In the engine bay there were five wires that I had to run and tap into existing wires. Whenever I have to splice into a wire, after locating it I cut a small section (about 3/8”) of the insulation out then open the strands up by splitting them approximately in half. This is the C3 connector in which I had to tap into a brake wire, cruise wire and A/C signal wire. Then in the C1 connector I had to tap into a wire for the EVAP system to keep power to the vent valve that I installed at the EVAP canister.


Next I strip between 3/8”-1/2” of the insulation of the wire I’m adding and insert it into the middle of the stands wrapping it around and pulling everything right before soldering.


Soldered connection complete. Then I wrap a small piece if clothe electrical tape followers by 3M Super 88 electrical tape as the final seal. This will provide a long lasting vibration and corrosion proof connection that won’t bite you in the butt down the road. Do NOT use butt connectors please. I cringe whenever I see those damn things. They have their place but not in the environment of an engine bay and definitely on your engine’s performance system.


Completed wiring after split loom installed and taped up. Looks OEM and will perform as well as OEM.


Final shot of the engine bay.


It’s getting closer. My new gaskets for my A/C lines are supposed to arrive today then I can get all A/C lines connected, run my control wire for the Camaro SS fan and that pretty much completed the engine bay other than tidying up a bit of the wiring. Then I can move inside and start completing the wiring.

Thanks for looking.

Mike
 
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