Any Mtn Bikers on RME?

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
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That Titus isn't terrible for that price, it's a decent shock and fork and those are the spendy bits anyway. If the SRAM X7 and Maguras turn out to be terrible, Shimano SLX or XT stuff is affordable and useable.

My big gripe would be the 26" wheelset, but Stratton might prefer them?
 

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Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Supporting Member
That one on Facebook has 10 rear gears and 1 front? Is that normal? Sorry I just only remember 3 front 7-9 rear.

I think I can bump my budget but I really don't want to drop tons on a bicycle. Is my budget idea unrealistic? I've seen loads of bikes with dual suspension for around $400-$500. Are they just no good or too old at that price range?

Please teach me what length of travel am I going to want?
I'm pretty sure I can decend pretty decent from off-road Moto racing, but I'm sure I'll suffer a lot learning (and kinda want to) to climbs so I can gain more cardio fitness.

I'm not afraid to buy something and grow out of a bike so long as I can get a decent enough deal to recoup a little of what I spend.
 

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Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Supporting Member
Any of these ok?
Since I have no idea- I have zero pride about what I'm going to be riding...
Basically I don't want to hate life and not be able to keep up if I rode with you guys, and laughed off the hill because of vastly inferior equipment- then I'll end up not riding. And the point for me is to cross train and up my fitness for desert racing.

Gary Fisher HiFi 29er Mountain Bike http://www.ksl.com/classifieds/listing/52295469

Specialized Stumpjumper FSR http://www.ksl.com/classifieds/listing/52290504

Fezzari Alta Peak XR - 2008 http://www.ksl.com/classifieds/listing/52232324

2008 marin east peak http://www.ksl.com/classifieds/listing/52124218

2008 Rocky Mountain ETSX-70 http://www.ksl.com/classifieds/listing/52120599
 

sixstringsteve

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UT
I'm stoked you are looking at bikes. I hope my post is helpful and doesn't come across as condescending, I don't mean it to be. I've re-read it a few times, and I don't know how else to say it.

Those bikes you linked are pretty awful (no offense). The specialized could be ok, but I'd need to see it in person. Not all full suspension bikes are going to be better than a hardtail. I wish I had two or three pointers to help you know which full suspension designs are a good deal and which ones aren't, but there are just too many variables. You could find a great specialized for a great price, only to get it home and realize the rear shock is blown and you'll need to put $300 into an old outdated shock. It is possible to snag an ok bike at $500, but you've really got to know your stuff to know what to spot. I don't know of a great way to get you up to speed on all the old models, geometries, and components quickly.

It's kind of like the guy who wants to buy a wrangler for under $12k. He will come home with a YJ with a 3" body lift, 36" swampers, and stock gearing for $12k because it was $5k cheaper than a stock JK. To him, they're both wranglers. He thinks he got a great deal, but the rest of us know that YJ isn't worth $12k, even if it's in his budget, and even if it's a "wrangler."

True story. My sister just bought her son his first real mountain bike. She's stoked because it's a full suspension and 21 speeds and she only paid $75. It's an MGX. Little does she know that this "bike" sold for $100 new at walmart 10 years ago.

You're asking the right questions though. Bikes have been undergoing huge changes over the past 3 or 4 years. It's really tough to recoup much money these days selling a bike that's over 3 years old. If you're planning on spending more than 10 hours on the bike this summer, I recommend bumping up your budget and getting a great hardtail, or bumping up your budget a lot and getting a full suspension with the following features (in order of importance).

1) dropper post (this will put you out of the $500 range). This is a huge deal, because you lower your seat when you descend, and raise it when you climb. I use my dropper at least 20 times every mile. It's up, then down, then up, then down. It makes riding SO much fun. That being said, a dropper won't be possible for under $500. Droppers are pretty new, and they only come on higher-end bikes, so finding a used bike with a dropper will cost closer to $700-1000).
2) a decent fork from Fox or Rockshox. This will be easy to find in your budget, but I'd try to find one that was recently rebuilt. You don't want to end up with a fork that you can't get parts for anymore, or that needs to be replaced. Even finding a 26" fork these days is tough to do, let alone for less than $300 new.
3) the option for tubeless tires would be SUPER nice, but probably not going to happen in your price range.

It's tough to compare new bikes to old bikes; they've changed a LOT! You'll want at least 120mm travel. More travel isn't necessarily better than less.

In general, mountain bikes are categorized like this:

XC (Cross country). These bikes are super light. They're easy to pedal long distances. They rock on the climbs. They're great for fitness. They're not great for jumping, railing corners, hitting drops, or steep downhills. They're great for what they do, but i'm betting you'll want something a little more capable on the downs. In fact, I KNOW you will. These typically have travel from 80-120mm

Trail. (including all-mountain). This is the broadest category and probably what you'll want. This is a great compromise between climbing and descending. They're not the lightest bikes on the market, but they don't suck to pedal uphill with. They're decent on the downs, but not as plush or aggressive as an enduro/dh bike. Travel for these is 120-140mm.

Enduro. Not to be confused with enduro moto racing, it's totally different. Enduro is a category of racing where you have to climb to the top of the mountain, but the downhills are the only timed part. These bikes are usually pretty burly and strong and can handle big drops, but still climb pretty darn well. They're not "fun" on the climbs, but they get the job done. Enduro bikes really only started getting good around 2010. These typically have 140-170mm travel. They're the "coolest" bikes to have, but they're often too much bike for most people.

Downhill/DH. You can't pedal these uphill. They have gears, but no climbing gears. These often have triple-clamp forks like a moto, and unless you have a season pass to the canyons or deer valley, you won't want one of these. And you wouldn't want one of these that cost less than $5k anyway.

I'm not sure if that helps you or not, but I hope it does. Mountain biking is an expensive sport. VERY expensive, especially if you ride with guys with modern gear and you're going to compare to them. Kinda like riding an old 1982 xr250 vs a 2018 KTM300. Both will get you to the top, but it'll be a completely different sport/experience for those two riders.

Just for reference, if you were to buy brand new, the cheapest I'd expect a new rider to pay for a "good" plus hardtail with a dropper post is $1600, and a "decent" budget full suspension with dropper post is $2300. These bikes will provide a completely different experience from anything from 2008 or older.

If you just want to test it out and stay in shape in the off-season, you can find an awesome hardtail for $400, or a decent full suspension from 2006 for $650.
 
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Kevin B.

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3xwhatever drivetrains used to be standard, 1x is the new hotness. Generally with a 10 or 11 speed cassette in the rear, 12 is not unheard of. They generally have an expanded range, with at least a 42 tooth cog instead of the 34 common on 2x and 3x setups.

Your budget is a little unrealistic, most of the sub $500 dual suspension rigs you're seeing are Bike Shaped Objects with very very basic/low quality components are suspect frames. I think you'd open up a world of decent bikes if you step up to the $1000 range. But Steve is right, almost nobody is happy with their first bike and you're going to be looking for something else within a year. So don't overthink it.

Length of travel - again, don't overthink it. For reference, 100-120mm is common on XC bikes that are designed for efficiency and light weight, 120-150mm is what you'll normally find on trail bikes that are supposed to be a middle ground, more than 150 is pretty much always a DH or park oriented bike that will see more time on a lift chair than climbing a hill. But your travel or lack of isn't going to be holding you back right away, so don't sweat it.

You didn't ask yet, but wheel size. Makes a huge difference in how a bike handles. There's three standards, the 26" you're used to, and then 27.5" and 29". Generally speaking, the 26" bikes are going to have a shorter wheelbase and feel more nimble picking your way through techy terrain and making moves, the 29" bikes are going to be longer and heavier and will want to monster-truck an obstacle more than they'll want to finesse it. On top of that, you're going to see references to 27.5+ and 29+ wheels, these are the new hotness and use the same rim sizes but tires up around the 3" range.

All of those bikes you just linked are probably worth roughly what they're asking. Nothing are anything to write home about, all of them, assuming good condition, will get you up a trail and back down and you will have fun. I promise.

If you're willing to step up your budget to the $1500ish range, I recently spent an agonizing week or two shopping hardtail 27+/29+ builds and would be happy to share my notes. There were a couple sub-$1500 bikes in there that fit Steve's list up there (dropper post, decent fork, tubeless setup), with plus size tires and Boost hub widths as a bonus.

Consider buying whatever the heck XC or trail bike on KSL strikes your fancy right now, riding the stink out of it, and then going to lots and lots of factory demos this summer and test riding everything on the lot to get a better idea of what you want. Every bike is different.
 

moab_cj5

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Supporting Member
If you want to ride a 27+ hardtail, your welcome to throw a leg over my Norco Torrent. It’s a fun first bike that is plus size. I added a dropper post and i run it tubeless. It’s a fun bike to get started on.
 

sixstringsteve

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Location
UT
The bike industry sucks. It's not like notorcycles, where you can dial up RMATVMC and order the fork seals for a 2003 specialized fsr. The specialized dealer won't have the parts either. The bike industry keeps on changing "standards" to ensure that the parts on your bike from 3 years ago are obsolete and won't work on new bikes. So it's getting harder and harder to just buy a new frame and swap all your parts over to the new one. None of them will fit. Well, maybe the water bottle cage and the seat, but that's it.

I worked at a shop for 5 years and it was easy because there were only one or two sizes for axles, bottom brackets, etc. Now there are like 7 different bottom bracket sizes, 5 different axle widths, 5+ tire sizes, a million headset standards, handlebar clamp size, you name it. It really makes it tough for new riders to enter the sport for less than $2k.
 

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Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Supporting Member
Thanks for the education. I'm hard to offend. How old is too old to look as far as newer suspension/ frame geometry?


Is that diamondback Kevin linked much better than the Titus? Seems like a more trail bike than an xc right?
Seems like by your description that Titus is more of an XC yes?

Which style do you think would fit me?

I live in Bountiful so Mueller Park and some of the trails by the B might be closest for me to ride.
 
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sixstringsteve

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Location
UT
I can't see the diamondback that kevin posted (stupid facebook)

A trail bike would fit you best. I would try to find a 2010 or newer, but that bumps you out of the price range.

Back in the early 2000s, most full suspension bikes were either XC or DH. The "trail/all-mountain" designation didn't really exist. The titus is not modern at all in its geometry/fit/handling, but it has ok parts. The titus would work fine for riding for a few months until you know what you want. But it's going to be tough to sell, since nobody knows what a titus is.

The easiest bike to sell will be a specialized. They're not my favorite bikes, but they're well built with good parts, and they hold their value well, since people who know nothing about MTBs at least have heard of "specialized."If you can find a specialized fuse for under $1000 with a dropper post, that'd be a solid bike. Not full suspension though.
 

sixstringsteve

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Location
UT
I'd never expect to find a deal at a pawn shop, but this is actually a good deal for a great bike (provided it's in good shape). Out of everything we've looked at, I'd recommend this one the most for you. It's not a dual suspension, but with the 3.0 wide tires, you can air down a bit and it will be lots of fun. it even has a dropper post.

https://www.ksl.com/classifieds/listing/52090055



if you could get this for under $1800k, it'd be a steal. You'd want to add a dropper post to it eventually though.

https://www.ksl.com/classifieds/listing/52167982


I don't think you'll find a nicer bike than this for $900
https://www.ksl.com/classifieds/listing/52310603

This one is a really good deal.
https://www.ksl.com/classifieds/listing/52288723

This might be ok too. What do you think Kevin?
https://www.ksl.com/classifieds/listing/52304690
 
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Kevin B.

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I can't see the diamondback that kevin posted (stupid facebook)

2015 Diamondback Atroz Comp, ridden a couple times per the seller. $700.

Bike Suspension: Full Suspension
Fork: Rock Shox XC32, 120mm travel, 15mm thru-axle, turnkey lockout
Rear Shock: Rock Shox Monarch R
Crankset: Race Face Ride, 30t
Bottom Bracket: Sealed cartridge
Shifters: SRAM X5
Rear Derailleur: SRAM X7, Type 2
Rear Cogs: SRAM PG1030, 10spd, 11-36t
Number of Gears: 10 gear(s)
Brakes: Tektro Gemini hydraulic disc
Brake Levers: Tektro Alloy linear reach
Rims: DB SL7
Front Hub: DB SL7, 32h with 15mm thru-axle
Rear Hub : DB SL7, 32h
Wheel Size: 27.5 inches
Tires: Kenda Nevegal Lite, 27.5 x 2.35
 

sixstringsteve

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Location
UT
Yeah, I'd pass on that Diamondback, but if you really can't spend more than $800, i suppose it's as good as any other $800 bike. I'd recommend raising your budget to $1200-1600.
 

TRD270

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SaSaSandy
I've had no issues with my Diamondback so far, its no Santa Cruz, but it fit the budget and my skills. It is on the higher end of diamondback stuff though.

Just to reiterate whats already been said about modern bikes.

1. Dropper post greatest thing ever for MTB's, I don't like riding my other bike that doesn't have one now.
2. Air shocks, next greatest thing I love about my new bike. Soaks up bumps so much better than older shocks.
3. Love my 1x drivetrain
4. Boost spacing allowing for wider tires, I have a 2.6 out front and 2.35 out back and I love the grip and extra cushion.


If you can't afford a decent full suspension get a good hard tail. Bad geometry FS bikes can be miserable on climbs especially if they have cheap shocks. I think a pretty decent + hardtail is more obtainable and you'll have a lot of fun on that.
 

sixstringsteve

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Location
UT
Shock lockouts are not needed (but they're the #1 thing most new bike shoppers ask for). They're a great marketing tool, but they're far less important than a dropper or the ablity to run tubeless tires.

Some bikes can have a dropper post added to them, but not all. It all comes down to the seat tube size and shape of the frame. Most older bikes have seat tubes that are too narrow to fit a dropper, but there are exceptions. Ideally, you'd want a frame that has internal dropper routing, where the hose is inside the frame, rather than having an extra cable dangling around, going to your seat. Droppers range in price from $150-450. So if you can find a bike that already has one, you'll be far ahead.

Josh is spot on. The high end diamondbacks are fantastic bikes. I have a few pro friends who ride circles around me on their diamondback releases. The Atroz, sadly, isn't one of their great models.
 
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