Competition buggy...

Vonski

nothing to see here...
Location
Payson, Utah
Originally posted by Ryan


So do you have any of the parts I will be needing that don't already have a home? I had all kinds of parts kicking around before I moved a few weeks ago, but nowhere to put it, so I got rid of everything. Oh well, none of it would have helped much with this project anyway. (2) Sami's as in being worked on for customers? Or (2) Sami's that are looking to be adopted?:D

I'll clarify: I own a Sami that is fairly built (tcase gears, lift, bumpers). The shop owns one that will be built in the future. We also have various Toy and Sami parts, but are going to be used on present or future projects. However, let me know what ya need, I know we can help you with alot of the new parts needed.
 

Vonski

nothing to see here...
Location
Payson, Utah
Originally posted by Ryan


I realize this won't be read tonight, but the question still stands-----why not Legend? Are you guys going to be running the buggy? What's to become of the truck?

I'm still around to tackle this one... OK, we'll be competing with the buggy for next year. So, if for some reason it is not completed by the first competition, I'll put 38's on the truck and do the best we can for points. Otherwise, our points for the year will suffer.
 

Ryan

Registered User
Shweeeet. I'm out...(now that you're all gone)

Just one lingering question...
Greg, where did you get that pic of nuttzak's vehicle?(gotta change that name:rolleyes: ) I want more...
 

spencurai

Vanilla Gorilla
Location
WVC,UT
wow guys....helluva 3 page conversation overnight!!!

here are a couple things to think about.

dean bulloch would be an excellent guy to consult about your whole situation. he was very competitive in UROC this year and I think he just barely changed out his stock zuk motor for a kick. Dont quote me on that but it seems he did. last time I talked to him he was running the 4.89 t-case gears from petroworks and stock zuk motor. he was running pretty deep gears in the diffs somewhere in the low 5's. he also has a pretty unique suspension with d-44s and bronco radius arms front and rear. 1/4 elliptic setup in the rear with coils up front. He does have a lot of custom work into his body but that is no big deal, just for looks and function for storage basically.


I was thinking about doing the same thing and trying to compete in UROC but lost a lot of backing from local buddies when their work schedules changed.


spencurai opinions:

I truly think 6:1 gears in the t-case with diff gears in the 5's would be plenty of gearing.

Go for the fuel injected kick motor if you are going to spend the time and effort.

dont be fooled into thinking coil suspensions are the end all, look at von being very competitive with leafs and traction bars front and rear.
 

Greg

Make RME Rockcrawling Again!
Admin
Originally posted by spencurai
dont be fooled into thinking coil suspensions are the end all, look at von being very competitive with leafs and traction bars front and rear.

I think his main reason for want Coils is because the wheelbase with leafs is not 'Competition-Friendly.' It would be difficult to get 96-100" of WB and retain the leafs on a Sammi-based rig.
 

Greg

Make RME Rockcrawling Again!
Admin
Originally posted by Ryan
Shweeeet. I'm out...(now that you're all gone)

Just one lingering question...
Greg, where did you get that pic of nuttzak's vehicle?(gotta change that name:rolleyes: ) I want more...

POR..... I'll try get some more.
 

sukaB

Banned
If you want to have all the options available to yourself and your needs of competition or street go with a YJ frame and have it built RIGHT. it's the all around easy setup,with all sorts of endless options.
The opinions stressed here are not the opinions of the extreme list or it's providers.
-Thank you drive thru-
 

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
Back to steering; I have a box from an f150 that bolts inside the frame (like a jeep) but the arm swings in front of the box rather than under, this would allow you to kick your front axle out further
. if you want it you can have it and the steering shaft free
 

Ryan

Registered User
Originally posted by Jeremy
Back to steering; I have a box from an f150 that bolts inside the frame (like a jeep) but the arm swings in front of the box rather than under, this would allow you to kick your front axle out further
. if you want it you can have it and the steering shaft free

I'll definitely take it off your hands. I gotta bail right now, but I'll PM you either tomorrow or Monday and see if we can hook up somehow. BTW, thanks.
 

Vonski

nothing to see here...
Location
Payson, Utah
Originally posted by spencurai
spencurai opinions:

I truly think 6:1 gears in the t-case with diff gears in the 5's would be plenty of gearing.

Go for the fuel injected kick motor if you are going to spend the time and effort.

dont be fooled into thinking coil suspensions are the end all, look at von being very competitive with leafs and traction bars front and rear.

This kind of setup is simple, reliable, and keeps the "bugs" to a minimum. Dean's rig works well, but i even think his setup is more complex than it really NEEDS to be. Still, it's a simple rig.
 

Vonski

nothing to see here...
Location
Payson, Utah
Originally posted by sukaB
If you want to have all the options available to yourself and your needs of competition or street go with a YJ frame and have it built RIGHT. it's the all around easy setup,with all sorts of endless options.
The opinions stressed here are not the opinions of the extreme list or it's providers.
-Thank you drive thru-

I think the success of Mike Schaffer and his lightweight non-Jeep approach is fueling this thread. Well guys, a competition Jeep vs. Sami thread may give new direction to this. Or not...
 

Ryan

Registered User
Originally posted by Vonski


This kind of setup is simple, reliable, and keeps the "bugs" to a minimum. Dean's rig works well, but i even think his setup is more complex than it really NEEDS to be. Still, it's a simple rig.

Okay, say I approach this from the standpoint of buying a semi-built sami, and running the sami drivetrain as stated above(6:1 t-case gears, toys with 5.29's). I would have no problem running this set up to start off with, because it would get the vehicle rolling with a LOT less work, and it would allow me to experiment with what will and won't work for me, BEFORE building the vehicle as a finished product(well, you know what I mean by "finished"...).

My question is, will the Zuk motor cut it in the mean time?

If I'm just going to be swapping it out eventually, I'm not sure I would spring for EFI(unless cost wasn't that much different).

What I don't want to do is spend a few extra bucks for a good running Zuk motor in the vehicle, and then find out it won't do the job. If it will work okay, but leaves a little to be desired, that's one thing. But if just flat out won't cut it, well, I'd rather spring for the 1.6 right from the start. I guess the more I think about this, I kinda like the advantages of building this thing is stages, rather than all at once. That way I'm not doing things, and then REdoing things(at least no more than normal, LOL).




Originally posted by Vonski


I think the success of Mike Schaffer and his lightweight non-Jeep approach is fueling this thread. Well guys, a competition Jeep vs. Sami thread may give new direction to this. Or not...


Shaffer's and Dean's success definitely is proof positive that this approach can work. I really dig Shaffers vehicle, but I don't know that that's where I got the desire to go this route.

I've just spent a LOT of time thinking about what makes for success in competitive rockcrawling(or, shall we say, "racing";) ).

At least from a vehicle standpoint-----lightweight, small body, not too wide, but wide enough to be stable, simple, etc...

That's where I get a picture of a Sami on Toy axles. Chris's vehicle is a narrowed EB on full width F150 axles. It's pretty stable and light, but too wide. The tip-toe-through-the-cones type stuff just kills us. So, if you can come up with a vehicle that has narrower axles, yet is still stable relative to the weight and size of the body, AND still has a good climbing wheelbase...

That's where I got the pic in my head of the Sami. Just a Jeep, Bronco, Cruiser, etc. on full-width axles, but mini-sized in an attempt to minimize cone and weight issues.


The other thing I notice, is that at Supercrawl, 1st through 4th places(Legend) were running full body(give or take) Jeeps on pretty stock width axles, some even daily driver's. If you can keep that axle width, but lose some of the body width and weight, all the better.

Now, this is ONLY for a Legend vehicle. From what I've seen, the Legend lines are much more drivable without risking breakage/rollover. If we were talking Unlimited, well, I have a whole different picture for that one...



Okay, now where was I...:rolleyes:

Oh yes----
So, is the Zuk motor even worth starting with?:D
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
The 1.3 will do OK, you can rev them to the sky if you have to. :D If you get an EFI 1.3, you can slap that head onto a 1.6 block later, and save yourself the wiring hassles.
 

Ryan

Registered User
Originally posted by I Lean
The 1.3 will do OK, you can rev them to the sky if you have to. :D If you get an EFI 1.3, you can slap that head onto a 1.6 block later, and save yourself the wiring hassles.

Hmmm...

I think I remember hearing something about the 1.3 head, I just must not have caught on at the time:confused:

A few options are already starting to come together, but that ain't a bad idea at all. I'll keep that in mind.
 

Ryan

Registered User
Looking for a little more info about the 1.3 head on a 1.6 block. Any "gotcha's"(for anyone who's ever talked to Scott at Rockstomper)?

Couldn't find much on POR, aside from people saying that the heads were about the same.

If it's just a bolt on deal, that would be niiiiice.

Also, has anyone here swapped a 1.6 into a Sami? Just wondering how bad the wiring actually is.
 

Vonski

nothing to see here...
Location
Payson, Utah
Originally posted by Ryan
Looking for a little more info about the 1.3 head on a 1.6 block. Any "gotcha's"?

When using the 1.3 head on the 1.6 block, you need to use a 1.6 head gasket (of course, don't get a cheap one). If you were using a Kick tranny, then you're there. If you wanted to use the 1.6 block mated to the stock Sami 5speed, then you'd need the components I spoke about earlier in the thread as well as a "mix and match" of various 1.3 and 1.6 parts.

I personally have not had the opportunity to wire-up a fuel injected 8v or 16v setup in a Sami. However, I know of a source for a custom wiring harness that should make it simple. As of today, we now have a fuel injected Sami here to do a bit of R&D. BTW, F.I. makes all the difference in the world for the 1.3. I can't wait to slap it on a 1.6 block!
 
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