KTM 300 Database

[rockreligious]

I call bs...ha .midrange is a relative term.

 

[rholbrook]

FMF vs ProCircuit vs Bill's vs DEP

I am in the market for a pipe and want good low end power without loosing anything on top. I am not brand loyal to any of them so I wondering whats going to really make a difference.

 

[anderson750]

My experience with pipes is that any time you gain bottom you give up some top. I have always run an FMF Gnarly on my 300 which I believe is what it runs as stock, just not branded.

 

[Cascadia]

I have a pro circuit. Not sure where I gained or lost power cause I did the red spring and milled the head at the same time. So I'm no help.

 

[Caleb]

When I had my 300, the pipe that was always recommended to give a little more bottom end was the Gnarly. Everyone said you lost a little off the top, but more than make up for it with what you get on the bottom. I was planning that as my next purchase but instead sold the bike

 

[rholbrook]

My Counter Shaft Seal is leaking now. It seems like my choices are KTM OEM, All Balls, Enduro Engineering and Pro X.

Any suggestions on which one to go with?

 

[anderson750]

They all will do the job. All Balls will probably be the least expensive.

 

[rholbrook]

They all will do the job. All Balls will probably be the least expensive.

Quality is what I am looking for, cost isnt as important. They are all less than $15 anyway. I just dont want to do it again any time soon.

 

[glockman]

Yours too. I just noticed mine was leaking Saturday.

 

[anderson750]

I have used the Moose in the past on my 08 but did not keep the bike long enough after to know if it was good enough. I have never heard of any of those not lasting for a reasonable amount of time. Sometimes an aftermarket counter shaft sprocket that is not quite the same thickness as the oem will allow the sleeve to move slightly causing the o-ring to fail.

 

[rholbrook]

I have used the Moose in the past on my 08 but did not keep the bike long enough after to know if it was good enough. I have never heard of any of those not lasting for a reasonable amount of time. Sometimes an aftermarket counter shaft sprocket that is not quite the same thickness as the oem will allow the sleeve to move slightly causing the o-ring to fail.

Makes sense. I dont know what sprocket is on it

 

[anderson750]

Makes sense. I dont know what sprocket is on it

Not the cheapest option, but I am a big fan of Dirt Tricks sprockets with a Regina Chain.

 

[ricsrx]

so the seal can be replaced with the sprocket removed, meaning it can be replaced with out tearing the motor down?

 

[rholbrook]

so the seal can be replaced with the sprocket removed, meaning it can be replaced with out tearing the motor down?

Yes it can. It's actually pretty easy. You do need to make sure you replace all the parts in there. There is a seal, spacer and o-ring. The parts are less than $20 retail. There are probably a ton of how to videos on you tube. With your skills with a wrench, you could do it in your sleep

 

[rholbrook]

Well, I chose All Balls and was glad I did. It came with the seal, the spacer and 2 ea of two different size o-rings and a new snap ring. A stock size and a little larger size if using an a non-oem sized sprocket. I opted for the thicker o-ring but I couldn't get the snap ring on the counter shaft so the stock size was used. My sprocket was plenty thick.

[/URL][/IMG]. This is a shot after I pulled the sprocket off.

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The bottom spacer is the old part and had a groove worn in it. The original o-ring was really hard. It was literally less than a 30 min fix and after doing this one could do it in half the time again

 

[ricsrx]

I have all my top end parts back, any tips or recommendations for the assembly and brake in period?

 

[anderson750]

For break in, I always do one 5 minute heat cycle on the stand, let it cool cpmpletely for at least a couple of hours, then ride it easy for about 15 minutes and call it good. Top end break in is a lot less intensive.

 

[rholbrook]

There are so many ideas on how to break in motors. I think the big thing is to not let the RPM stay at a constant rate. I do like Paul's idea of letting it idle for 5 minutes and letting it cool back down. I have always believed that you break them in how you ride them but the initial start up should be fairly mellow, that way you can make sure you have it cooling properly. Never hurts to mix the oil a little richer on the first tank though.

 

[anderson750]

There are so many ideas on how to break in motors. I think the big thing is to not let the RPM stay at a constant rate. I do like Paul's idea of letting it idle for 5 minutes and letting it cool back down. I have always believed that you break them in how you ride them but the initial start up should be fairly mellow, that way you can make sure you have it cooling properly. Never hurts to mix the oil a little richer on the first tank though.

One thing I forgot to add to that first start up, is to give the throttle short blips during the initial heat cycle. Not much, just a quick 1/4 to 1/2 at max, mainly just to clean it out a little. In reality, all you really need with the top end is to get the rings seated good. With the bottom end, you do a couple more cycles to get some heating and cooling into the main bearings and some lubrication into the rod bearings. I have never been a person to do prolonged break ins, and have just rode them after a couple heat cycles. Never been an issue for me.

 

[rholbrook]

Rode my 300 last night. This morning a puddle under the bike. Any ideas on what is keeping the CS shaft from not leaking? I haven't actually looked real hard yet