GMC / Chevy Project Dual Sport ; 1998 GMC Sierra
- Thread starter Greg
- Start date
-
- Tags
- build thread
TJDukit
I.Y.A.A.Y.A.S.
- Location
- Clearfield
X3 on the GMC clip.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Small update, since we've been talking about axles recently....
I acquired a GM 14 Bolt that was built by Six States with a new Detroit locker and Yukon 4.88 gears, courtesy of KSL. The price was right, but it was in SLC. Carl offered to pick it up for me and while he had it in his possession, he also checked the gear install. The guy that installed the gears slathered the entire ring gear with gear marking compound!! The install looked good, I got it home last weekend and spend today working with it. I pulled off the diff cover and found a fair amount of surface rust, with some bits being loose inside the housing.
This thing must have sat for some time without gear oil, after the gears & Detroit were installed. I'm not worried about it, but I cleaned it out real good today. Lots of soap, pressure washed the internals, carb cleaner, then a liberal hosing down with WD40 to keep any rust from reappearing. I'm going to toss a couple of heavy duty magnets inside the diff before it gets all sealed up, to catch any left over, loose junk.
After that was all done, I pulled the Rustoleum Gloss Black paint out and fogged the axle down with a couple coats from the rattle cans.
I'm going to keep the drum brakes for now, 4 wheel discs aren't a huge deal for me, with this build. If I decide that down the road I need rear discs, then I will add them. For now, drums are staying.
I acquired a GM 14 Bolt that was built by Six States with a new Detroit locker and Yukon 4.88 gears, courtesy of KSL. The price was right, but it was in SLC. Carl offered to pick it up for me and while he had it in his possession, he also checked the gear install. The guy that installed the gears slathered the entire ring gear with gear marking compound!! The install looked good, I got it home last weekend and spend today working with it. I pulled off the diff cover and found a fair amount of surface rust, with some bits being loose inside the housing.
This thing must have sat for some time without gear oil, after the gears & Detroit were installed. I'm not worried about it, but I cleaned it out real good today. Lots of soap, pressure washed the internals, carb cleaner, then a liberal hosing down with WD40 to keep any rust from reappearing. I'm going to toss a couple of heavy duty magnets inside the diff before it gets all sealed up, to catch any left over, loose junk.
After that was all done, I pulled the Rustoleum Gloss Black paint out and fogged the axle down with a couple coats from the rattle cans.
I'm going to keep the drum brakes for now, 4 wheel discs aren't a huge deal for me, with this build. If I decide that down the road I need rear discs, then I will add them. For now, drums are staying.
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
lookin good, What's next on the "to do" list?
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
The next step is to rebuild the front Dana 60, which won't be terribly difficult, but will take a good deal of time and money.
Once the Dana 60 is rebuilt & reassembled, it will be time for the solid axle swap! I have quite a list of parts to purchase relating to the SAS before I start with it. I also need to find a set of 37's to mount up on to the H2 wheels I have.
The SAS and related modifications will be the challenging part. The truck will need new; brake lines, drive shafts, shocks & mounts, etc. Plus, I will be removing the ABS and stock master cylinder and replacing it with a hydro boost system. Should be... fun... or something....
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
man, I can't wait to see this thing finished. You have way more patience than I do.
Tonkaman
Well-Known Member
- Location
- West Jordan
Subscribed. I want to build up my rig for expedition and utility use, looks like your going to be good inspiration
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RockChucker
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Highland
What are you doing for a Hydroboost system? My dad's '96 3/4 ton Suburban has hydroboost from the factory. I wonder if it would be easiest or even possible to use parts from that?
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I hope we're getting close! I'm excited to see it on 1 ton axles and 37's, I think it will be just want I'm going for.
Good to hear, hopefully you will find it helpful!
Thanks for the info Steve! Where are you sourcing the 3/4 ton lines?
I have a hydroboost system from a GM diesel truck in the garage. I believe it will bolt on, we will see.
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
Greg, re: the brake lines. I use '93 k3500 brake lines on my Jeep. I wonder if your half ton lines would work?
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I haven't really looked them, I'd think they would have to be too short? I'm planning on 5" lift, with solid axle wheel travel. I don't imagine the stockers would work, but they might? If not, ORD's brake line kits for F & R are $112, which isn't bad at all.
Tacoma
Et incurventur ante non
- Location
- far enough away
They will be too short. I know this from personal experience.
I would save my money on the brake lines- Hose & Rubber charged me $40 for the fronts, and there's only one rear with drums... but the ORD ones are pretty nice.
I would save my money on the brake lines- Hose & Rubber charged me $40 for the fronts, and there's only one rear with drums... but the ORD ones are pretty nice.
I use wrecking yard or rockauto 3/4 ton lines.
The hole in the booster push rod is smaller on the vacuum boost trucks versus the hydro boost. So the hydroboost unit will slide onto the stud at the pedal assembly, but it will be sloppy loose. You may just be able to fab an adapter sleeve and be good to go.
The hole in the booster push rod is smaller on the vacuum boost trucks versus the hydro boost. So the hydroboost unit will slide onto the stud at the pedal assembly, but it will be sloppy loose. You may just be able to fab an adapter sleeve and be good to go.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Nothing really, the front axle is mostly built (ARB locker & 4.88 gears, by Carl!) and that's really it. I haven't done much, I've either been riding motorcycles or it's been too damn hot to do anything. I do hope to put in a big parts order with ORD soon and hopefully I will have something to report. I would like to have the truck ready to use before Fall sets in, we will see how that goes.
What truck are you thinking about starting with?
Kiel
Formerly WJ ZUK
Been looking at high mile tacomas ext cabs in the 1998 to 2004 models with close to 200k at the auctions. Still going for close to 7 and 8 grand for something pretty nice. I'm not sure its worth it. Something similar to yours maybe. I sold my big superduty and we like having a 3rd vehicle around and always need a truck. Probably higher miles and cheaper then your nice truck. Also looking for a manual trans. It bugs me to buy a 3-4000 truck and have to put a 1500- 2500 auto in it all the sudden in 6 months.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Gotcha. The GM needs a lot of suspension mods to make it capable, the IFS bites for any more than road driving. I really like the Vortec engine and know my way around 350's, so choosing a GM to build was an easy decision for me. I may have to rebuild the 4L60E at some point, but hopefully I can keep it well under $1000!
I didn't spend all that much on my truck...
If I had more time and money, I would have looked for a 3/4 Ton GM with a 454 and a NV4500... but those are rare!Have you considered a late 90's Ford F250 with a 460 and a manual transmission? I think a Extended Cab, Short bed would be a pretty decent all around rig. Swap in a Dana 60 and dump the TTB and you'd have a great, simple rig for cheap.