The Budget Buggy - Take Two
- Thread starter Coco
- Start date
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- Tags
- build thread
ricsrx
Well-Known Member
I don't think I could sale it, this has been one fun buggy! That being said, everything is for sale for the right price
littlesolidkick
Active Member
- Location
- HAPPY VALLEY
Bump. Lets see the buggy now... Whats new with it?
Haha what's going on man!? How you been? How's your build coming?
Nothing too crazy just yet, helping dad get his done so I can get in the garage and get started on mine. I pulled the cases a couple weeks ago, bumps, skid, tires and wheels. I broke the rear input shaft on the back case trying to get out of some sand coming out of Dekleined during Trail Hero. I got it warrantied, and fixed, so they are ready for the new owner.
I got my 4.1s, and HD shaft kit for my Dana 300 (HUGE shoutout to Mr. Pool, and Teraflex! Give them a call with any of your Jeep needs!!) I am hoping to get the case rebuilt this week, and I'll mate it up to my AW4. I also got my rear axle a couple months ago, and also my RADesigns shifter
getting excited to get it in the shop, and get cutting it apart!!
Some of the parts I am starting to collect
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Looking forward to seeing this come together. Where did you get those shifter knobs Colton?
Got started on this again. Been busy tearing things down mostly. I recently got the auto and Dana 300 put in, built that transmission crossmember, got the axles out, and started cutting the chassis apart.
Fun trick I saw, but an easy way to get the pilot bearing out of the back of the crank. Fill the hole with bread, then use a slightly smaller bolt or punch in the pilot bearing opening, and it will pop out. I was amazed at how well it worked, and then the bread popped right out when it was done.
This is a much shorter drivetrain than Toyota duals haha
Thinking about just cutting the rear lower link mounts off, and re-using the upper mounts. Then the lower links will be down on the subframe when that is built.
Fun trick I saw, but an easy way to get the pilot bearing out of the back of the crank. Fill the hole with bread, then use a slightly smaller bolt or punch in the pilot bearing opening, and it will pop out. I was amazed at how well it worked, and then the bread popped right out when it was done.
This is a much shorter drivetrain than Toyota duals haha
Thinking about just cutting the rear lower link mounts off, and re-using the upper mounts. Then the lower links will be down on the subframe when that is built.
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Before Christmas I cut out most of the upper cage bars, and rebuilt the front upper bar, and spreader bars. Since then, it have been cut in half, and most of the cage is done, and started the rear portion of the chassis. Nate and Ryan helped to convince me that the B pillar needed to be straight, and I agreed. With the rake of the A and B pillars, it definitely needed to be straight without adding a B.5 pillar. Its coming along, just has some frustrating points of trying to figure things out.
Pile of parts
Well-Known Member
- Location
- South Jordan
Wow! Wasn't that long ago I watched you put this together for the first time. I thought it was great. Excited to see how it turns out this time.
Been plugging away on this since updated. the chassis is pretty much done. Got a couple more things to do, and weld in, but for the most part, it is finished up. I want to change up a couple more areas in the front of the chassis, but nothing major. Welded up the entire chassis on Saturday. I'm no welder, and its frustrating at times when you can lay a beautiful bead, then the next one looks like poop... Oh, and welding upside down sucks Got the rear shock mounts done, axle sitting where it will be, started the subframe (but probably going to change it, since I am not liking that direction, and the lower links won't be correct) trying to see if the upper link will clear with a driveline in there as well (see high tech duct tape pics) and it will be close. I think the lower crossmember on the tubework will need to be moved up, or put a bend in it to try to stay 4 link.
Also, HUGE shout out to Mitch at UFAB. He bored out my Ford unit bearings for 35 spline shafts, and got the bolt pattern to 8x6.5.
Got the rear shock mounts done, axle sitting where it will be, started the subframe (but probably going to change it, since I am not liking that direction, and the lower links won't be correct) trying to see if the upper link will clear with a driveline in there as well (see high tech duct tape pics) and it will be close. I think the lower crossmember on the tubework will need to be moved up, or put a bend in it to try to stay 4 link.
Also, HUGE shout out to Mitch at UFAB. He bored out my Ford unit bearings for 35 spline shafts, and got the bolt pattern to 8x6.5.
Why do I need to redo the truss? I do need to redo the mounts for sure though. They are too narrow for my joints.
The diff is offset to hopefully keep hangups to a minimum. Its really popular for comp crawling.
Cuz it doesnt look as blinging as the buggy. Is the 14 bolt shaved or going to be?